Bailey's 20NK vs Oregon 95VP chain

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Jack Russell

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which one of the two chains will cut faster and smoother. will the 95Vp get the most thumbs up or will it be the 20NK

I have a friend that uses the 20NK. He has given a thumg up for it and I agree with him Who will disagree


:greenchainsaw:
 
Man Crazy what was you cuttin. I switched to 20nk this last fall. I really like it. Nice and fast and stays sharp for a long time, makes for a good ripper too if need be on big chunks. This is on a 028 with arbor pro 16 bar
Bob
 
Stihl Crazy said:
I vote for the 95 Vp, faster and tougher. I have 3 three 20 NK's and each one broke teeth on the first tank.
Thanks for the info!:)
....and thanks to Jack Russel too, for starting this tread!:clap:
I have been waiting for someone who has actually compared these chain to expess an opinion.

I have never had a chance to try the 20NK, as Carlton is n/a here - mail order from the US is about the only option.
The only difference I know of, is that the 95VP/H30/S30 has the anti-vibe chassis, and the 20NK not.
However, I do not know if it actually makes a difference in the cut.

Madsaw said:
.....I switched to 20nk this last fall. I really like it. Nice and fast and stays sharp for a long time, makes for a good ripper too if need be on big chunks. This is on a 028 with arbor pro 16 bar
Bob
Imo all that applies to the 95VP as well.
Did you change from the 95VP, or from something else?:confused:
 
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The 028 was set up with a stihl bar and chain in.325x.63. It was a good change over to the 20 nk. Much cheaper too then having to worry about buying even standard .325 chain here around home. I got the bar and 2 chains for about what just 2 chains would have cost me here.
Later
Bob
 
I put my last new 20 NK on my 026 this morning. It lasted two tanks and broke a tooth. I was cutting white spruce with hard dry limbs. The chain broke while I was pre-limbing.
 
Andyshine77 said:
I've used the 20nk chains for over two years now without any problems. It looks like you broke a link not a tooth.

Zoom in on the pic, the cutter snapped off right around the rivets. Not sure why its doing it, but something is causing it to snap off around the rivet heads.
 
Stihl Crazy said:
I put my last new 20 NK on my 026 this morning. It lasted two tanks and broke a tooth. I was cutting white spruce with hard dry limbs. The chain broke while I was pre-limbing.
Carlton chain are reputed to be harder than Oregon - maybe too hard, and brittle, for such a slim chain?
 
Stihl Crazy, If this problem is due to materials and workmanship rather than operations and conditions, we'll replace those chains at no charge to you. I'm really hoping that the connection made in front of the broken tooth was made by someone other than us. I'm not saying that this caused the problem but, it wouldn't reflect on us very well. For a chain that has run for this amount of time, the bottoms of the tie straps and cutters are severely peened. This would lead me to believe that the chain has been running to loose. The other thing I noticed was the cutter that is pictured on the lower part of the tip has a severe hook ground into it. This could account for the tooth breaking, and if it came from the factory that way, it would definitely be a warranty situation.
 
Anyone notice the other tooth that is broken off on the bottom of the bar? It doesn't jump out at you like the broken link does.

Ian
 
Keeping in mind I'm not a professional and I only have Bailey's low buck chain
spinner/puncher locking pliers. That spin on the rivet looks really bad, kinda wonder what happened during the swaging.

I did have to add a bit of an extension handle to my spinner to cut down on the time needed to whip up a chain loop but my spins look clean, smooth and bright and I just spin it till the side play is about the same as all the other links on the chain. Might be a defective chain? or some bizarre wood cutting condition? I don't think I've ever lost a cutter. My cutters are worn down to the size of a semicolon right now and they still cut well. Making new chains tonight from the new spool of Woodsman pro
 
Stihl Crazy, If this problem is due to materials and workmanship rather than operations and conditions, we'll replace those chains at no charge to you. I'm really hoping that the connection made in front of the broken tooth was made by someone other than us. I'm not saying that this caused the problem but, it wouldn't reflect on us very well. For a chain that has run for this amount of time, the bottoms of the tie straps and cutters are severely peened. This would lead me to believe that the chain has been running to loose. The other thing I noticed was the cutter that is pictured on the lower part of the tip has a severe hook ground into it. This could account for the tooth breaking, and if it came from the factory that way, it would definitely be a warranty situation.

I agree with Grande Dog & marked problem areas I observed!
 
Carlton

I have never had a chance to try the 20NK, as Carlton is n/a here - mail order from the US is about the only option.

"Outdoor Accessories" Chains and Bars are sold around in many hardware-store in Norway this days, and this chains and bars are made by Carlton, so there is no need for Mail Order from US. Just go by some Hardware-store and see if they got it.
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"Outdoor Accessories" Chains and Bars are sold around in many hardware-store in Norway this days, and this chains and bars are made by Carlton, so there is no need for Mail Order from US. Just go by some Hardware-store and see if they got it. ....

Well yes, I know that they are sold in Norway, but the price our cottage nabour had to pay to get it mail order holds me off - from what I have read, I definately don't want to pay premium prices for Carlton chain........


Btw, MAG, here it is totally different from what you said about Husky, Jred and Stihl dealers - the Huskys are sold only by full service dealers, while Stihls and Jreds are sold also by warehouses/ box stores etc........
 
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