Baileys bar/chain help

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Mike mandry

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I have a sears (poulan S 25) That I just put on a new baileys bar & chain on.

30Lp woodsman pro chain (.365 low profile) & one of the cheapo carlton $4.95 closeout bars: http://store.baileys-online.com/cgi-bin/baileys/5526?mv_session_id=jQL6G6DB&product_sku=MHC 12 EP50

saw has a new, never used oregon sprocket.

My problem is that the chain is binding up (like when the sprocket is worn or mis-matched)

I can't adjust the chain. You all know the routine, it will be tight & then loosen up as you drag the chain around the bar & then tighten up again.

the new sprocket is made for 3/8 lp chain, so what gives ??

I noticed the baileys chain is advertised as 3/8 LP / .365 NOT .375 LP

As far as I know there is only one sprocket that fits this saw & they were all made for 3/8 LP

Anyone have any ideas ??
 
It is a 3/8 6t sprocket.

I swapped out the sprocket with another one that has just a minimal amount of wear (darn near new) and there was no change.

put on a different (good) bar & chain: same thing.

put on a new stihl chain with the new bar & sprocket: same thing.

I have tried several combos of bar chain & sprocket to no avail.

No, the crank is not bent. Checked that also.

chain has that ratchetey sound going around the bar & droops then tightens up & droops again.....................

:bang:
 
It is a 3/8 6t sprocket.

I swapped out the sprocket with another one that has just a minimal amount of wear (darn near new) and there was no change.

put on a different (good) bar & chain: same thing.

put on a new stihl chain with the new bar & sprocket: same thing.

I have tried several combos of bar chain & sprocket to no avail.

No, the crank is not bent. Checked that also.

chain has that ratchetey sound going around the bar & droops then tightens up & droops again.....................

:bang:

Mike , I'd say that you have narrowed it down to the bar sprocket .
 
Thats what I thought as well.

I also tried a new 14" oregon bar & got the same thing.

I will have to see if I have a Hn bar that I can try.

I dont know what else to do...
 
Thats what I thought as well.

I also tried a new 14" oregon bar & got the same thing.

I will have to see if I have a Hn bar that I can try.

I dont know what else to do...

Do you have a dial caliper that you could use to measure the distance from a point on the bar to the sprocket tips when they are 180* to the bar longitudonal axis ? I think you have some sprocket teeth that are longer than the others .
 
Tried every possible combo

If you have replaced everything, bar chain sprocket.

And the problem is still there. Could your bind be in the saw?

Silly question but I thought it might need to be asked.
 
I am at my wits end.

I just tried a HN bar: same problem.

Checked the sprocket & it is symetrical & looks OK

I marked the sprocket when the chain got loose with a marker.

I ended up with 6 symmetrical marks on the sprocket OD & it is a 6T sprocket hmm.....
 
Not sure if it makes any differense, but is the sprocket rim (if it is a rim type) on the right way?
 
Last edited:
I am at my wits end.

I just tried a HN bar: same problem.

Checked the sprocket & it is symetrical & looks OK

I marked the sprocket when the chain got loose with a marker.

I ended up with 6 symmetrical marks on the sprocket OD & it is a 6T sprocket hmm.....

Mike , is it possible that you have a bar alignment problem ? If a drive link is hitting the corner of the bar where it starts to enter the bar groove maybe that could cause the problem .
 
So you have the problem with different chains, bars, and sprockets and you know that they are all for a 3/8. Possibilities:
1. Something is bent that causes a bind-up every time a chain tooth tries to enter the sprocket. Could be crank or where the bar connects to the power head.
2. You are not installing something correctly.

Again, this all assumes that everything matches up to one another correctly. Have you tried moving the chain with the side cover off? Just hold the bar with one hand and move the chain with the other, you should be able to tell if the chain and sprocket are not meshing and if things are not lined up. Make sure the bar is evenly against the power head, use a c-clamp if you have one big enough but don't apply much pressure so something doesn't break.
 
Howdy,
The only thing I've seen in the past that fits your description is a drum that has the spur welded of center. This theory would mean both of your sprockets are bad which is unlikely but, not impossible. Spin the drum while it's on the saw. Try to block the spinning drum from your mind and concentrate on the spur. Get a point of view where your looking at the horizon of the spur points. From the amount of discrepancy you're describing, you should see eccentric movement of the spur as compared to the drum.
Gregg
 
Howdy,
The only thing I've seen in the past that fits your description is a drum that has the spur welded of center. This theory would mean both of your sprockets are bad which is unlikely but, not impossible. Spin the drum while it's on the saw. Try to block the spinning drum from your mind and concentrate on the spur. Get a point of view where your looking at the horizon of the spur points. From the amount of discrepancy you're describing, you should see eccentric movement of the spur as compared to the drum.
Gregg

I have had a bad (new) spur on a homie SEZ before The ID of the bearing bore was not concentric with the spur.

I will fool around with it some more tonight & see where I get.
 
Yep, chain is on the right way.

I think the chain & sprocket are mis matched. Not mis matched as in the wrong pitch, but they just dont jive.

I can watch the driver climb up ever so slightly on the sprocket every time it comes around.

3/8 lp is all you can get for these saws (well, that & 1/4")
 
Yep, chain is on the right way.

I think the chain & sprocket are mis matched. Not mis matched as in the wrong pitch, but they just dont jive.

I can watch the driver climb up ever so slightly on the sprocket every time it comes around.

3/8 lp is all you can get for these saws (well, that & 1/4")

Mike , maybe it is the .365" pitch chain on the .375" spur that makes the chain pinch and ride up the sprocket tooth .
 
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