liberty
ArboristSite Operative
Is the Bailey's inject-a-sharp carbide chain any good? It is about twice the price of standard chain. Will it give a longer lasting edge? What about sharpening it? Thanks
Baileys Inject-a-Sharp chain
- Thread starter liberty
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andrewspens
ArboristSite Operative
This might help a bit
I used to be a volunteer firefighter. We carried our saws with the Rapco chain, the stuff with carbide chips on each tooth. We used it to cut holes in roofs, clear through the asphalt shingles. The stuff worked pretty good for that, but was just about useless for clean wood. Policy was that when large windstorms came in, we switched to regular chains to help clear roads. I was handed a saw one day and asked to take a few limbs off of a tree next to the station, it still had the carbide on it, I probably could have done it faster with a butter knife. I realize that you are asking about the embedded chain, not full carbide, but this might help.
I used to be a volunteer firefighter. We carried our saws with the Rapco chain, the stuff with carbide chips on each tooth. We used it to cut holes in roofs, clear through the asphalt shingles. The stuff worked pretty good for that, but was just about useless for clean wood. Policy was that when large windstorms came in, we switched to regular chains to help clear roads. I was handed a saw one day and asked to take a few limbs off of a tree next to the station, it still had the carbide on it, I probably could have done it faster with a butter knife. I realize that you are asking about the embedded chain, not full carbide, but this might help.
beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
it's semi-chisel so you're a little slow off the bat because of that. But since you'll likely only be using it in dirty conditions, that's fine.
i like it. it does last a lot longer than plain chain does. It sharpens with a file just fine, albeit takes a bit more finesse...
Make sure you use enough oil because I've had some chunks of the carbide come off.
Goat
ArboristSite Operative
If you can sharpen carbide with a file, I want a picture of the tooth or the supplier of your files...
beelsr
ArboristSite Guru
It's not a "real" carbide chain. it' just titanium-tungsten carbide that's been electronically fused onto the tooth.
It sharpens fine with a Pferd or Vallarobe file.
i'll try to remember to take a pic tomorrow.
I just picked up a baileys inject -a- sharp chain and a hard nosed bar,
doing a favor and removing a few stumps and a huge pile of downed
oak. Any special angles on sharpening? I did beat the stuffings
out of a sprocket nose bar, poor thing, sandivik though. I'll definately
know by this weekend just how it works.
-Jason
doing a favor and removing a few stumps and a huge pile of downed
oak. Any special angles on sharpening? I did beat the stuffings
out of a sprocket nose bar, poor thing, sandivik though. I'll definately
know by this weekend just how it works.
-Jason
Well, today was the test, had a 22" bar with the inject a sharp chain.
Indeed, it does cut a little slower, being the semi chisel and all, and
the hard nosed bar runs damned hot. I had to adjust the chain a
few times as it settled in, probably 3 adjustments in the first tankful.
The lowdown:
I have 4 oak stumps to terminate, I did 1 with a regular chain,
sharpen 8-9 times between tankfuls or whenever cutting speed
would slow down. It consumed nearly a full brand new chain and
f'd up the bar a bit, had to beltsand the rails to square them up.
I did the other 3 with the carbide plated chain and a Windsor hard
nose bar. Don't top cut with a hard nose bar, I'm thinking an oil can
on hand would be helpful as the 272 Husky doesn't have an oiler
adjustment. Would rinse the bar off with gas every tankful then
manually reoil after cooling and adjustment. I had to sharpen about
1-2 times per tankful but the amount of sharpening was a whole lot
less, maybe 2-4 strokes each as the top of the tooth wasn't getting
worn down or bent over. The regular oregon chain would need 6-8
strokes every few minutes of cutting. The heat generated does
give me some concern but cutting with care seems to be agreeable
to the setup.
Overall the small investment in the inject a sharp chain and a hard
nosed bar saved itself in gas and time today, and it'll save triple its
weight in regular chain.
-Jason
Indeed, it does cut a little slower, being the semi chisel and all, and
the hard nosed bar runs damned hot. I had to adjust the chain a
few times as it settled in, probably 3 adjustments in the first tankful.
The lowdown:
I have 4 oak stumps to terminate, I did 1 with a regular chain,
sharpen 8-9 times between tankfuls or whenever cutting speed
would slow down. It consumed nearly a full brand new chain and
f'd up the bar a bit, had to beltsand the rails to square them up.
I did the other 3 with the carbide plated chain and a Windsor hard
nose bar. Don't top cut with a hard nose bar, I'm thinking an oil can
on hand would be helpful as the 272 Husky doesn't have an oiler
adjustment. Would rinse the bar off with gas every tankful then
manually reoil after cooling and adjustment. I had to sharpen about
1-2 times per tankful but the amount of sharpening was a whole lot
less, maybe 2-4 strokes each as the top of the tooth wasn't getting
worn down or bent over. The regular oregon chain would need 6-8
strokes every few minutes of cutting. The heat generated does
give me some concern but cutting with care seems to be agreeable
to the setup.
Overall the small investment in the inject a sharp chain and a hard
nosed bar saved itself in gas and time today, and it'll save triple its
weight in regular chain.
-Jason
