Bandsaw Mill

[Adkpk]

hey no worries... many of us don't necesarilly jump on here EVERY day, sometimes I'm out of town, and don't always have access to a computer.

What town, arborist town? Dave that's why you got to get a blackberry.:rockn:

 

[stihlatit]

Welcome aboard Larry......Enjoy.

 

[Andy Harden]

Rob, Here are some of the pictures. I'll post more of them as soon as I shrink them.

http://groups.msn.com/AndysLumberMill/millpictures.msnw?Page=1

Andy

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Nice Logmaster, Andy. Looks new a lot newer than the one I use. What model is it? I see you have the fancy computer, too. Do you mill full or part time?

 

[Andy Harden]

Aggiewoodbutcher, It is a new mill. I bought it last year and picked it up at the end of May this year. They have a six month lead time. It is a LM3 with the cat diesel option. I retired at the end of May from the USAF and am cutting full-time. Word is getting out that I am cutting full-time. It is keeping me very busy. I just finished a job where I cut 9,000 bd ft of Oak with a couple Pines thrown in the mix.

 

[L Wagner]

Bandmill

Andy

I'm jealous. That machine is so much bigger than mine, but I'm too old & weak to handle the size logs you are. Good luck on your logging/lumber business. We need more people turning our trees into lumber rather than firewood.

Larry

 

[Andy Harden]

Larry, The mill will handle a 36inch 24 foot long log. I figured out a way to cut a beam 33 ft long with it. I'll post some pictures on the site listed above of that adventure. What kind and size of mill do you run?

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Andy,

Nice picts. thanks for posting the addy to them! I always enjoy seeing other sawyers equipment and logs!!! Nice mill, Perkins powered too....nice..

I sawed red oak this last week. Nothing huge, but a few of them were decent.

Hopefully the weather will stay decent so i can finish up the pile of logs i'm working on!!

There's always so much to do around here that i can't saw as much as i'd like...

Rob

 

[manual]

Aggiewoodbutcher, It is a new mill. I bought it last year and picked it up at the end of May this year. They have a six month lead time. It is a LM3 with the cat diesel option. I retired at the end of May from the USAF and am cutting full-time. Word is getting out that I am cutting full-time. It is keeping me very busy. I just finished a job where I cut 9,000 bd ft of Oak with a couple Pines thrown in the mix.

Nice MIll I had the LM6 with edger both ran by Cats.
Herman droped them off nice guy. I like the set works. sence the scale was off and too small to read. the set works did all the work.
Did you ever check out anything from Cooks?

 

[Andy Harden]

Manual, Yes I looked at Cooks, TimberKing, Woodmiser and several others but it looked like I get more bang for the buck with the LM.

 

[jerseywild]

Woodmizer

Anybody using a woodmizer mill? What brands are you running and do you think you made the right decision? What do you like about your mill and what would you change? I would like to get a small mill so I can mill some of my better logs. Not looking for production just want to mill now and then.
Thanks

 

[L Wagner]

Andy

There are a couple of pictures of my mill on a previous post, titled, "A couple of pics of the mill". It is a Mr. Sawmill brand and it can cut a 21" log 12 ft. long. Thats about all this old man figured he could handle. It is manual and very affordable, at least for my bank account. I'm basically a hobbiest at it and do some smaller logs for friends. I also am in the process of setting up a solar mill that will handle about 800 BF per loading. I will sell a little and use most myself with the hobby & craft business my wife & I are planning. We mill mostly Red Oak, White Oak, Maple(hard & soft), cherry, and walnut and ash.

Jerseywild

I just couldn't see myself spending as much money for several of the bandmills out there and getting less than what I got. My Mr. Sawmill has performed admirably so far and it is simple enough that I can purchase any needed part locally. If there is a drawback, it is that Timberwolf does not want to sell me blades, because of the 16" wheels. I've been told they might break. I've been using Munkforsager blades and have yet to have one break. However, I personally have destroyed one or two as steel in a log will do and what happens when you try to back up while cutting. All part of my learning curve. I have been able to run 10-12' a very uniform 1/8" thick on reds oak.

Larry

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

Anybody using a woodmizer mill? What brands are you running and do you think you made the right decision? What do you like about your mill and what would you change? I would like to get a small mill so I can mill some of my better logs. Not looking for production just want to mill now and then.
Thanks

I've used an older LT25 quite a bit. Woodmizer makes a good product but some people don't care for it's cantilever design. I didn't notice any problems caused by it and it actually has a few advantages over a tunnel design. If you are milling a log that's at the size limits of the mill, the open side can be helpful.

 

[manual]

Manual, Yes I looked at Cooks, TimberKing, Woodmiser and several others but it looked like I get more bang for the buck with the LM.

Well looks like Herman Changed that grade scale and is using an arrow instead of a oval hole to look through. Might help.
Theres alot to be said about that board return. Might want to look at cooks to get an better Idea on how to make it work. What would help is fingers hanging on the back rail to keep the board from sliding sideways also an higher wall going up by the controls. Also the inside of tires on my mill was worn out when herman got here from texas. of course your mill is lighter then the LM6.

 

[Andy Harden]

I've used an older LT25 quite a bit. Woodmizer makes a good product but some people don't care for it's cantilever design. I didn't notice any problems caused by it and it actually has a few advantages over a tunnel design. If you are milling a log that's at the size limits of the mill, the open side can be helpful.



I keep a chainsaw close to the mill for just that reason. Knots are a killer when you can pass only 36" inches thru the "tunnel".

 

[Andy Harden]

Well looks like Herman Changed that grade scale and is using an arrow instead of a oval hole to look through. Might help.
Theres alot to be said about that board return. Might want to look at cooks to get an better Idea on how to make it work. What would help is fingers hanging on the back rail to keep the board from sliding sideways also an higher wall going up by the controls. Also the inside of tires on my mill was worn out when herman got here from texas. of course your mill is lighter then the LM6.

I think Ed is the one that made the change. They are using a hydrostatic transmission on the LM6 instead of a hydraulic motor. Yes the board return needs some improvement. I keep it strapped to the saw carriage. It gives me a better view and I don't use it any way. The LM3 is 6500 hundred lbs and the LM6 is 8000 lbs. That is a BIG difference. Why did you sell the LM6? It cut both directions and has PLENTY of hp,

 

[manual]

I think Ed is the one that made the change. They are using a hydrostatic transmission on the LM6 instead of a hydraulic motor. Yes the board return needs some improvement. I keep it strapped to the saw carriage. It gives me a better view and I don't use it any way. The LM3 is 6500 hundred lbs and the LM6 is 8000 lbs. That is a BIG difference. Why did you sell the LM6? It cut both directions and has PLENTY of hp,

Both directions on a 2" blade. well I thought that was a good I deal too.
I asked Ed at that it what other guys are doing about the blade staying on because of no way of keeping it on like the single edge blade guide wheels.
He said He did not know it was too new to find out? Of course he told me this after I bought it
Lets just say a 4'' wide would be better. (If only there was a lemon law on bandmills).
I got screwed around by a crooked broker when herman droped the mill off the broker said it took too long to make the mill and he would have to refile all my loans. went form 60k to 98k yea right.
To this day herman has not even written me a receipt for the down payment. that I gave him to start building the mill and edger.
Then when I started having problem with the set works and many other things. Like the Edger catching on fire.
I was told to sign the papers for the (bogus loans) then Log Master would back up there work. In the mean time the mill could not run properly and I was falling behind daily. Total Nightmare.
Anyway I have some Ideas on how to make that board return work.
First thing take that mass of metal right off you can't see the blade go into the wood anyway. plus you don't want that to fall down on your return.
Set works lifts the blade and resets for return but I found it faster to just bump the blade up with the lever and then return. Minutes count.
One thing I learned is that sawyers like helping other Sawyers.
Also the Idler pulley for the blade lift lower one by the dust chute will plug up with packed sawdust. I scraped it out with a blade. Get the paint off the dog sliders too. they work better. keep a wire brush handy for the band wheels to get all the packed dust off.


Watch your front dogs. with big logs. Blades don't go through dogs.

 

[Andy Harden]

Both directions on a 2" blade. well I thought that was a good I deal too.
I asked Ed at that it what other guys are doing about the blade staying on because of no way of keeping it on like the single edge blade guide wheels.
He said He did not know it was too new to find out? Of course he told me this after I bought it
Lets just say a 4'' wide would be better. (If only there was a lemon law on bandmills).
I got screwed around by a crooked broker when herman droped the mill off the broker said it took too long to make the mill and he would have to refile all my loans. went form 60k to 98k yea right.
To this day herman has not even written me a receipt for the down payment. that I gave him to start building the mill and edger.
Then when I started having problem with the set works and many other things. Like the Edger catching on fire.
I was told to sign the papers for the (bogus loans) then Log Master would back up there work. In the mean time the mill could not run properly and I was falling behind daily. Total Nightmare.
Anyway I have some Ideas on how to make that board return work.
First thing take that mass of metal right off you can't see the blade go into the wood anyway. plus you don't want that to fall down on your return.
Set works lifts the blade and resets for return but I found it faster to just bump the blade up with the lever and then return. Minutes count.
One thing I learned is that sawyers like helping other Sawyers.
Also the Idler pulley for the blade lift lower one by the dust chute will plug up with packed sawdust. I scraped it out with a blade. Get the paint off the dog sliders too. they work better. keep a wire brush handy for the band wheels to get all the packed dust off.


Watch your front dogs. with big logs. Blades don't go through dogs.

I found all about the front dog the hard way. That blade makes a LOT of noise when it comes apart. I had that lower pulley clog with dust just like you did. I dug it out, got some WD40 and sprayed it on generously. I do this about 2-3 times a day. That stops the problem with the dust build up.I use the same grease on the front dog/turner slide that I use on the bearings. It makes the slide work most of the day with no other problems. Just after I got home with it (Iwent to Texas and picked it up)The main bearing that runs the main drive wheel froze up and snapped a blade. They sent me a new one but could not spare a person to install it. I did receive some instructions and got it going.
Do you have any slop in the guide arm? I took mine off and drilled a 1/2 in hole in the underside. Tapped it and installed an adjuster bolt to tighten it up.

 

[Sawyer Rob]

Yes i've sawn with Mizers... With the exception of there LT10 i think they have pretty good products, but there are others just as good, and in most cases, for less $$ too...

My sawmill is a Norwood Lumbermate 2000, and it has a bigger capacity than the comparable Mizer (LT15) plus the Lumbermate cost less. Norwood is an excelent company and has great products... I'm very happy with my mill, as are hundreds of others who buy them.

For less money, Norwood sells a smaller model called the Lumberlite 24, and the owners of them are happy with their sawmills too. They saw quite well, i've sawn on one myself...

Don't take my word for it, go to Norwoodindustries website and ask owners of the mills at the town hall forums there... There's hundreds of owners that meet there that will be happy to answer your questions.

BTW, Norwood has an 800 number where you can order a free DVD on there products....

Rob

 

[manual]

I found all about the front dog the hard way. That blade makes a LOT of noise when it comes apart. I had that lower pulley clog with dust just like you did. I dug it out, got some WD40 and sprayed it on generously. I do this about 2-3 times a day. That stops the problem with the dust build up.I use the same grease on the front dog/turner slide that I use on the bearings. It makes the slide work most of the day with no other problems. Just after I got home with it (Iwent to Texas and picked it up)The main bearing that runs the main drive wheel froze up and snapped a blade. They sent me a new one but could not spare a person to install it. I did receive some instructions and got it going.
Do you have any slop in the guide arm? I took mine off and drilled a 1/2 in hole in the underside. Tapped it and installed an adjuster bolt to tighten it up.

I Had the band wheel Idler wheel bearing blow apart on me.
I went from grade oak 1,800 brd ft a day. To hard maple and no where near that type of brd ft. the whole mill was shaking. I call and ask what to do and they said that it was me and I will get better. well after breaking four blades
and 1 week of fustration the bearing let loose and the wheel fell off.
1st off do not put 3000 lbs of pressure on your blades lower it.
Herman called me one day and said that timkin bearings will not stand by there bearings with that kind of load. Thats after he told me to do so.
Also I Highly recommend you call timberwolf and get one of there blades
you will need four for the day as you already know.
Also BUY the video called Maximizing the use of your set tooth Band mill blades. this will show you how to set your blades up right.
there web site is www.Suffolkmachinery.com. Art is a great guy and will talk to you about your mill.
Next I recommend to get ahold of cooks again and ask for there free product books.
Lots and lots of informathion added in there for bandsaw mills.
Look at there guide wheels and find away to install them on your mill.
also look at the way they put the fluid on the blade. goes on both sides with wipers.
You never side if you sharpen your blades.
if you are did you buy the wright auto sharpener. if not take a good at the Cooks cat claw.