Bar and Chain Oil Preference

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This is mostly what I use, comes from TSC. Light for winter, heavy for summer, $9.99 a jug.
On sale here I can get it for $6.99 a gallon. It's a terrific product. :cheers:
 
For you guys that are frustrated with the bar oil spills every time you fill. I use a 1 gallon fabric softener bottle with a no drip spout. No spills or drips and smells spring fresh LOL. The wifey saves them for me--all the guys I cut with use them also.
Teriffic Tip! LOML is now on stage!
Shirley01.jpg

She promises me she would chip in with her next empty fabric softener jug. TSC sells really good chain oil, but the clerks at the store have never tried to pour it into a chain saw.
 
no one has commented on the use of used motor oil. I have been running the cheap non-detergent stuff (new, not used). Until now, I hadn't considered using used oil. whats others thoughts on using used motor oil?

I looked but just can't find the pic that was on here of a chainsaw that a guy ran used motoroil through it for bar oil. It looked like a small grenade went off under the clutch cover.
 
Used motor oil.

I think it was mentioned above about motor oil being a carcinogen. I believe new oil is not but used oil is because it has picked up some nasty stuff doing it's original job. Thats why there is a warning on the bottle of motor oil.

I like to use used oil for lighting brush fires. A couple of cardbord boxes and some used oil will burn for some time. It's not as exciting as gasoline but a lot more safe. Burn center risk is very low. It's also good for elevator chains, manure spreader chains, wood floors on trailers you don't ever plan on laying on, etc. Most of my used oil goes to a buddy that heats his shop with it.

I've spent too much money on saws to tear them up on used motor oil.

Don
 
Alot of the old timers around here use , used motor oil always for bar oil.
I know my dad used it alot in the old 10-10 and never had a prob. I have not used it but am thinking about mixing it with bar oil when it gets so cold I cant pour.
 
used motor oil

I've cut over 100+ cord with the same saw, bar, clutch. Never had a problem. Once in a great while i'll bump the dirt, and see a few sparks, never caught fire. Dad has been using used motor oil for 35 years on 10 different saws, his ####'s never caught fire, nore had any problem to think of being the result of used motor oil. And if your used oil has picked up enough gasoline to catch fire from sparks, holy moly, you gotta check out a leaky injector, stuck float in the carb, or some REALLY bad rings + hung up exhaust valves....


If the clutch blew apart, and it's automatic, as all the new saws are, probably because they didn't turn the oiler up to the max, as you should since motor oil is quite a bit thinner then traditional bar oil. I ususally end up using 2 fills for 1 fill of gas, sometimes 3, i get carried way with my oiler, all of ours are manual. either way, hunt up that pic, i wanna see it. Probably shopped....
 
Many reasons. Most appropriately, black, used motor oil has acquired lots of contaminants that can cause trouble with the oil pump, the bar, and the chain trying to use it. It also has no lubrication qualities that bars and chains enjoy and never did, even when unused.

However, if you have a saw that you care nothing about and cannot wait to throw away, go ahead and use old and black crankcase oil all that you want.

If you want a more scientific explanation, I suggest that you post your question on the Chainsaw forum and let them advise you.
 
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To manufacture lubricating oil for automobiles, some additives(additive packs) are added and include detergents, corrosion inhibitors, and rust inhibitors.

While automobile engine is running, the motor oil collects heavy metal (lead, cadmium, zinc, and barium), iron steel particles, and copper. Several of these contaminants are toxic and harmful to you and the environment.
A quick search showed - Recycling motor oil is the only legal way to dispose of it in the state of Oregon.

Dispose of oil by placing that oil into or on driveways, ditches, dry wells, surface water, roadways ( for dust control), storm sewers, etc. The discharge of oil into or upon state lands, waters, or storm sewers is a violation of Article 11 of Virginia Water Control Law. Persons discharging in this manner may be fined and/or required to clean up that discharge.
 
i dunno....

...I think it's less pollutant to use it for bar oil then to just burn it...

It came out of the ground, it was ran in an engine with gasoline, that came from the ground, that has collected lead, cadmium, zinc, and barium, include detergents, corrosion inhibitors, and rust inhibitors, some that comes from the ground, which i would rather not inhale from burning.
 
If you wanna use the used motor oil for bar oil I wouldn't be afraid of it at all.
First off it does have plenty of lubrication left if it didnt your engine would be toast. Second the small amount of metals is so fine its gonna hurt nothing.
Third Id say your putting out more pollution by running your saw than the fine spray bar oil will ever do. Oil is oil and your gonna sling some around when you run a saw no matter what! Fourth the idea that it has to much metal or dirt in it for the oil pump and bar and chain is a notta! As some of you may know many trucking company's burn all their used motor oil, not in the stove but right through the 100,000 dollar truck! A rather large trucking company down the road from me , I drove for for 5 yrs, at every oil change , 10 gallon of dirty black oil goes right back in the fuel tank. I questioned how good it was on a motor once, the answer was if its good enough for the crank and bearings to be running in its good enough to burn! And at the moment their are 4 cummins isx motors their with well over a million miles , no over haul and have burned every drop of motor oil they have had in them. And no it dosent make it smoke 10 gallons of oil in 200 gal of fuel you dont even notice.
 
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:agree2:, I guess I'll say it again:


I know I'll catch sh:censored:t, but I've always used used (nice grammer) motor oil- I know its supposed to be a carcinogen, but I try to keep my nose away from the bar tip. I've also heard alot of guys talking about its lack of lubricity: do you mean that when you changed your motor's oil that it was- all of a sudden- not lubricating? Sure, it doesn't have the tacky additive, but I adjust all my oilers- Stihl saws and a processor- wide open. I've never noticed unusual bar, chain or sprocket wear. We do about 600 real cords a year.:popcorn:


Damage to your saw's oiler!? You mean it didn't damage your vehicle's engine for 1000's of miles, and now its gonna damage your saw?:dizzy:
 
I was always a dirty oil user also but after reading advice here on the forum i'm putting TSC oil in my saws now in the warm weather ........when it gets real cold out I am thinking of going back to used motor oil because of the viscosity.

Just my opinion and how I think things works .
 
I was always a dirty oil user also but after reading advice here on the forum i'm putting TSC oil in my saws now in the warm weather ........when it gets real cold out I am thinking of going back to used motor oil because of the viscosity.

Just my opinion and how I think things works .


absolutely. what good is that high dollar thick bar oil if it stays in the reservoir?

the thinner the better.
 
absolutely. what good is that high dollar thick bar oil if it stays in the reservoir?

the thinner the better.

Give the husky/stihl/etc winter oil a try, or add a shot of Diesel to your jug of summer weight bar oil.

I hear ya on the oil not moving come winter, but the used motor oil is NOT good stuff to have on your hide.

Folks get all kinda worked up over some of the Pesticides I have in the Chemical barn, but most of 'em are less toxic to humans than the used motor oil many folks have in thier garage.

Having that stuff flinging all over the saw, my skin etc. ain't my idea of a good thing.

Ya can't eliminate all hazzards, but minimizing is smart.;)

Stay safe!
Dingeryote
 
Give the husky/stihl/etc winter oil a try, or add a shot of Diesel to your jug of summer weight bar oil.

I hear ya on the oil not moving come winter, but the used motor oil is NOT good stuff to have on your hide.

Folks get all kinda worked up over some of the Pesticides I have in the Chemical barn, but most of 'em are less toxic to humans than the used motor oil many folks have in their garage.

Having that stuff flinging all over the saw, my skin etc. ain't my idea of a good thing.

Ya can't eliminate all hazzards, but minimizing is smart.;)

Stay safe!

Dingeryote

Last week took down a tall cherry and a big bi-leadered oak at my in-laws house. Trees were next to the house and within 50' of their garden. Used more than a half gallon of canola oil as bar and chain oil on the job. I feel really good about not blowing used oil or motor oil all over contaminating the area.Spent about 3 days there and any oil on my clothes or lungs,hands and arms was canola oil not some stinky hazardous cr@p. Just trying to minimize health issues.
Also let my grandson make some supervised cuts, so oil to me is an issue.
 
Last week took down a tall cherry and a big bi-leadered oak at my in-laws house. Trees were next to the house and within 50' of their garden. Used more than a half gallon of canola oil as bar and chain oil on the job. I feel really good about not blowing used oil or motor oil all over contaminating the area.Spent about 3 days there and any oil on my clothes or lungs,hands and arms was canola oil not some stinky hazardous cr@p. Just trying to minimize health issues.
Also let my grandson make some supervised cuts, so oil to me is an issue.

I get way more used oil on me at work than I would ever get from a saw,but thats another story! On the farm and in the shop around trucks and tractors is where I get covered in oil. But more to the point of my post how much does a gallon of canola oil cost anyway? I would not be opposed to running it if its affordable! Also how does it work in the cold and does it seem to keep the bar and chain lubed and as cool as conventional bar oil?
 
I get way more used oil on me at work than I would ever get from a saw,but thats another story! On the farm and in the shop around trucks and tractors is where I get covered in oil. But more to the point of my post how much does a gallon of canola oil cost anyway? I would not be opposed to running it if its affordable! Also how does it work in the cold and does it seem to keep the bar and chain lubed and as cool as conventional bar oil?

Just recently I paid about $2.25 for 48 oz. bottles. I don't usually cut when it is below zero but it flows just fine in cool weather. I have not had trouble with the oil congealing in the saw as some using vegetable oil. But the saws are put up for most of the winter and sit with bar and chain oil in them. The bars and chains don't seem to run any hotter than with reg. bar and chain oil. It does seem to use a little more canola oil than chain oil. But still use just under a tank of oil when gassing up.
I first read about canola oil in the Tree Climbing forum. The commercial arborists(Tree Machine and others) make some very compelling points about the oil.
 

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