Bar grease.

[sand sock]

Do we know what the oregon blue green bar grease actually is. So i can refil it. I use it on my stihl bars all the time and am going to jump brands and will need more of it on the needle bearings. Locally we are having a hard time finding the grease pins. Refilling seems like the solution.

 

[HarleyT]

Do we know what the oregon blue green bar grease actually is. So i can refil it. I use it on my stihl bars all the time and am going to jump brands and will need more of it on the needle bearings. Locally we are having a hard time finding the grease pins. Refilling seems like the solution.

I haven't seen a grease hole on a Stihl bar in several decades.

 

[sand sock]

I grease the base of the drivers. My saw runs good before. It runs better greased

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Do we know what the oregon blue green bar grease actually is. So i can refil it. I use it on my stihl bars all the time and am going to jump brands and will need more of it on the needle bearings. Locally we are having a hard time finding the grease pins. Refilling seems like the solution.

I just refill mine with a high temperature axle grease, STP brand.

 

[HarleyT]

GREASE THREAD!!!!!!!

 

[sand sock]

I changed this bar out about 16 months ago. Im on my 4th or 5th chain , i wear them down to knubbins, before i change them out.

My saw usage changed , i used to go through 1 chain a year and get 3 maybe 4 years usage.

When i started greasing on this bar , this was the first time, doing this as a experiment. I use the cheap $5gal bar oil, instead of the stihl on this bar. Oil usage is the same rate. The bar just runs faster and cooler. I think it is worth it. I have a little heat wear on the nose but none on the channel. Where it normal heats up. The sleigh footing has been minimal. Ive cut between 40 and 50 cords with this bar

 

[Backstage]

They sell high temp moly grease at harbor freight. I can’t imagine that not working perfectly.

Those newer Stihl and other brand bars that don’t have oil holes for the tip sprocket supposedly have sealed bearings, and don’t need to be greased. Call me skeptical, but I’ve seen failures that shouldn’t have happened on brand new bars with the open grease styles.

The Douglas Adam (hitchhiker’s guide to the galaxy) quote is that the major difference between a thing that might go wrong and a thing that cannot possibly go wrong is that when a thing that cannot possibly go wrong goes wrong it usually turns out to be impossible to get at and repair.

 

[homemade]

Whatever you do, don’t use any moly. Moly grease is for pins and high friction. You need a lithium based multi purpose grease.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[Chevboy0167]

^^^^^^^^^^ Yes, lithium based wheel bearing grease. Use any color you like!

 

[J D]

I changed this bar out about 16 months ago. Im on my 4th or 5th chain , i wear them down to knubbins, before i change them out.

My saw usage changed , i used to go through 1 chain a year and get 3 maybe 4 years usage.

When i started greasing on this bar , this was the first time, doing this as a experiment. I use the cheap $5gal bar oil, instead of the stihl on this bar. Oil usage is the same rate. The bar just runs faster and cooler. I think it is worth it. I have a little heat wear on the nose but none on the channel. Where it normal heats up. The sleigh footing has been minimal. Ive cut between 40 and 50 cords with this bar

If you changed oil at the same time you started "greasing the links" your experiment is flawed. It's far more likely that your current oil is just doing a better job, probably due to being a viscosity better suited to your cutting situation.
For sprockets I've always just used the same grease I use on the digger. With respect to greasing or not greasing the tip I lean towards either doing one or the other... if you don't have grease in it then bar oil will lube the tip. Old grease build up will prevent that so if you're going to grease then do so regularly

 

[HarleyT]

OOOOooooo, Molly




With respect to greasing or not greasing the tip I lean towards either doing one or the other... if you don't have grease in it then bar oil will lube the tip.

 

[sand sock]

stihl oil is tacky. tsc brand is more liquid. i ran the tacky stihl exclusively for years. the tsc is a $10 savings. i have a beater crap 251 . the stihl wouldnt flow through the bar. the tsc does. i'm greasing my 361 saw . one does a ton of work and the other doesnt do anything. one bar is great and the other looks like its a heroin shooting trailer park ,cops called on your baby daddy. 6 night s out of 7 POS.

stihl has a sealed nose bearing, no bar oil is getting in there. i change a few dozen bearings every year. i have used soap based grease before and i have changed out alot more bearings when i did. not all greases are created equal. i found the first grease pen in the last 6 months of looking today. i also picked up a tube of lucas marine . i think it is c lose.

if your running big heavy equpitment. you want to run the black moly/lithium graphite and clay based grease.

 

[Huskybill]

I square the rails dead even on the Hf 30”x1” belt sander first. Then chamfer the inside and outside sharp edges on the top of the rails, then use my home made tool to clean out the rail grooves. Then I apply some moly to the rails. Give the clutch drum a shot of grease with the bar tip sprocket if if has a hole.

 

[bwalker]

I changed this bar out about 16 months ago. Im on my 4th or 5th chain , i wear them down to knubbins, before i change them out.

My saw usage changed , i used to go through 1 chain a year and get 3 maybe 4 years usage.

When i started greasing on this bar , this was the first time, doing this as a experiment. I use the cheap $5gal bar oil, instead of the stihl on this bar. Oil usage is the same rate. The bar just runs faster and cooler. I think it is worth it. I have a little heat wear on the nose but none on the channel. Where it normal heats up. The sleigh footing has been minimal. Ive cut between 40 and 50 cords with this barView attachment 949235

Any grease you apply is blown out almost immediately.
I use to grease Tips on my Husky saws because they had a grease hole in the tip. Stihl bars I have owned have never had the hole so I never greased them. The Stihl bars always lasted longer, but mostly because Stihl bars are higher quality than the rebranded Oregon's Husky use to put on all their saws.
Now, if you are in Canada many Stihl bars are also rebranded Oregon. At least there were when I lived there either the early 2000's.
My advice is that grease is a waste of time and doesn't net you anything. I will spray some penetrating oil into the tip prior to long term storage to prevent rust.
I also am of the opinion that the cheapest dedicated bar oil I can find works just fine. I've run a ton of Walmart Supertech. Used it exclusively when I logged. Never had an issue, ever.

 

[ballisticdoughnut]

GREASE THREAD!!!!!!!
View attachment 949231

You just HAD to go there...

 

[Andyshine77]

Haven't greased a bar tip in about a decade. Keep the bar groove clean, the rails square and remove the mushrooming.

 

[rob066]

I dont grease Oregon bar tips , Never had one seize up. The rails wear out first.

 

[bwalker]

I dont grease Oregon bar tips , Never had one seize up. The rails wear out first.

The only time I have had tip issues was when logging in snow or when doing alot of bore cutting.

 

[HarleyT]

I'm greasing mine right now.............

 

[chipper1]

The only time I have had tip issues was when logging in snow or when doing alot of bore cutting.

Same here, and especially with a chain that's not right for the species of tree or the wood is frozen.
Although I never "logged".