What is the best tool or method for keeping bar rails in good condition? I see several ideas in the Baileys catalog but want opinions on what works best. I normally flip the bar over every time I switch out a dull chain, clean out the bar rail and grease the sprocket. Any ideas or opinions would be greatly appreciated.
Bar maintenance
- Thread starter SAWFORD79
- Start date
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Boogieman142
ArboristSite Guru
What I do
1. Never grease tip
2. De burr when needed
3. Blow out rails when chain is off for sharpening
4. Flip bar when I put on another sharp chain
5. check rail gap if problem is suspected
6. Enlarge oil hole
Think thats about it
1. Never grease tip
2. De burr when needed
3. Blow out rails when chain is off for sharpening
4. Flip bar when I put on another sharp chain
5. check rail gap if problem is suspected
6. Enlarge oil hole
Think thats about it
Anthony_Va.
XPW Fan Club
You can wiggle your chain side to side to check for spread rails. If it has excess side to side play then you'll have to close them up. They make a tool for that.
The bar will also build up a lip around the edge and it will cause the bar to bind up in the cut. A flat file is all you need to get rid of that. You can feel the lip if you rub the edge of the bar. You can also see it. Cutting with a dull chain and pushing hard on the saw will cause this lip to appear alot faster.
The bar will also build up a lip around the edge and it will cause the bar to bind up in the cut. A flat file is all you need to get rid of that. You can feel the lip if you rub the edge of the bar. You can also see it. Cutting with a dull chain and pushing hard on the saw will cause this lip to appear alot faster.
D&B Mack
Sawin Wit It!
Termite
Time To Launch
This is my edge sharpener. When one rail gets higher than the other I use this to even them up. A light touch is needed.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
This is my edge sharpener. When one rail get higher than the other I use this to even them up. A light touch is needed.
Could likely have been avoided, if the operater used the inside of his head and a large raker file when needed..
I have both of the bailey's tools below... I would recommend the rail closer as there isn't really a better way to handle closing the rails. The blue file can be replaced by a steady hand and a good flat file. In facty i find it easier to control the flat vs the blue palm file. I have also used a dremel with grinding stones and my angle grinder with a flack wheel if I need to speed the process. This is what I call a flack wheel http://t1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRuFNQ9mqZHu3aEKvDwocl1buvqq8yS3DYfHgJdAhdNcVxfictqAAhYnc0p Even if I use one of these to speed the process I still go back and hand file the bar rails so they are perfectly perpendicular to the bar sides.
1.) Some don't realize this: DON'T use bad chain! What I mean by this is if you have a chain that has belled out either way on the bottom (where ir tuns on the rails), QUIT USING IT! I've seen guys take a bad chain off and dress their bar only to put the same chain back on??? Stupid... and then they wonder why their bar get chewed up so quick!
2.) buy quality chain and bars if you want them to last a long time. it blows peoples minds to spend $75 on a Total super bar, Sthil bar, or sugi... But you will outlast cheap bars by 10 fold making it cheaper to run a good bar in the long run. This is the get what you pay for senerio... Cheap bars will wear quicker, need more dressings, and cost you more in the long run!
3.) Hand Files: For those that don't know files are made to run in ONE direction! If you run the file in a back and fourth like a hand saw you will quickly find out that you CAN dull a file! Running a file in the opposing direction it was made for will dull the file and you'll have to replace them 5x quicker! This goes for all your hand files round, flat, curved, etc!
4.) Clean out the Rails: I actually took an old screwdriver I didn't care about and ground it down until it was skinny enough to get into the bed of the rails. I cut a small hook into the end to help scrape the old saw dust and junk out of the bar. cheap way to save $5-$10 not having to buy the tool somewhere. one of my buddies made 2 of them out of a old metal ruler... use what you have around and a hair of injanuity and you'll be better off.
1.) Some don't realize this: DON'T use bad chain! What I mean by this is if you have a chain that has belled out either way on the bottom (where ir tuns on the rails), QUIT USING IT! I've seen guys take a bad chain off and dress their bar only to put the same chain back on??? Stupid... and then they wonder why their bar get chewed up so quick!
2.) buy quality chain and bars if you want them to last a long time. it blows peoples minds to spend $75 on a Total super bar, Sthil bar, or sugi... But you will outlast cheap bars by 10 fold making it cheaper to run a good bar in the long run. This is the get what you pay for senerio... Cheap bars will wear quicker, need more dressings, and cost you more in the long run!
3.) Hand Files: For those that don't know files are made to run in ONE direction! If you run the file in a back and fourth like a hand saw you will quickly find out that you CAN dull a file! Running a file in the opposing direction it was made for will dull the file and you'll have to replace them 5x quicker! This goes for all your hand files round, flat, curved, etc!
4.) Clean out the Rails: I actually took an old screwdriver I didn't care about and ground it down until it was skinny enough to get into the bed of the rails. I cut a small hook into the end to help scrape the old saw dust and junk out of the bar. cheap way to save $5-$10 not having to buy the tool somewhere. one of my buddies made 2 of them out of a old metal ruler... use what you have around and a hair of injanuity and you'll be better off.
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SawTroll
Information Collector
I agree on #1 and #2.
#3, I prefere to scrape, but whatever - and relate it to #4..
#4, I flip after each use, but that is mostly overkill - however, as I have it off for cleaning anyway, I can just as well flip it - better with overkill than forgetting. Sharpening as needed (on bar). I prefere to do it before dull (every second tank if nothing special happens - clean wood). Checking for "wire edges", and taking them off, but that relates more to #5, below maybe - and #2...
#5, of course.
#6, I think I have done that on one bar, mostly not needed with the bars I use.
= Basically about the same, no big deal. The main point is that the things get done in due time, and some system ensures that, regardless of the timing of the different tasks.
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old-cat
Fir Man
nstueve - You are the MAN WITH THE PLAN!!
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
1, scrape and blow out rails and oiler holes. 2, close rails with this,
3 , grind burr if needed. 4 , dress rails.
SawTroll
Information Collector
1, scrape and blow out rails and oiler holes. 2, close rails with this,3 , grind burr if needed. 4 , dress rails.
I'm a bit worried that you list rail closing under regular maintenace, makes me feel sorry for those rails? :msp_confused:
Having the tool availiable is one thing, but regular use of it may do more harm than good?
paccity
Addicted to ArboristSite
dos not worry me or my bars. keeps everything nice and tight just takes a few minutes to do. the way this tool works it cant close them up to much and the some of the burr gets pushed back so there's less burr to take off, ie less metal removed in the process. p.s. i get great life out of my bars.
Boogieman142
ArboristSite Guru
Would be concerned about peeling the rails back, probably a good idea to remove burr first but to each his own.
farmboss45
ArboristSite Operative
A light touch on a bench grinder with a tool rest has always done fine for me, evens the rails, takes out any cupping. Never had need for a rail closer as I am very aware of chain tension. Keeping my bar cleaned out is part of regular maintenance.
Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you are looking for files and raker guages and file guides, Get the Stihl hand file kit. Its nice and comes in a nice tool wrapper. The raker guage doubles as a bar groove cleaner. I like the Stihl file guide better than the Oregon ones alse. It holds the file better.
Thank you all for the information. I routinely check the rails for burrs and have hand filed the edges(sides) of the bar to remove burrs but never was for sure how to flatten the top of the rails smooth again like they were when they were new but the posts given here have helped with that. Thanks.
