Bar Oil opinions.....Please!!!

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I'm the same I buy what's on sale and stock up. I did find some winter oil and picked up a couple cases for 4.99 gallon at Menards and seemed to do real well in sub zero.
I can't tell ya what brand whatever Menards or TSC carries when they put it on sale.
 
I am finishing up the last of my Poulan Bar Oil.
Every order I make from Baileys I get the Motion Lotion...
IMHO.. Best bar oil...
 
my favorite bar/chain oil is lordco oil but not many here would know about it cause lordco is BC only. :givebeer:
 
Is there nowhere in the great big USofA that you can purchase a tacifier? we buy a singe grade oil sae30/summer, & 10sae winter, & mix in tacifier to taste, so you can have straight oil or goo that sticks like sh*t to a blanket. or any stickiness between.( have to use bio bar oil on government land) good that in my part of the world most land is in private hands so it works out cheaper in bar oil costs + at the moment our gas is E free another +( maybe we are not so far behind after all, only in the price we have to pay for kit/bits):(
 
Is there nowhere in the great big USofA that you can purchase a tacifier? we buy a singe grade oil sae30/summer, & 10sae winter, & mix in tacifier to taste, so you can have straight oil or goo that sticks like sh*t to a blanket. or any stickiness between.( have to use bio bar oil on government land) good that in my part of the world most land is in private hands so it works out cheaper in bar oil costs + at the moment our gas is E free another +( maybe we are not so far behind after all, only in the price we have to pay for kit/bits):(


Was told by a local he ads STP to cheap bar oil....
 
Was told by a local he ads STP to cheap bar oil....
Have never had any dealings with STP so can not comment ( Pretty expensive here though) we buy our oil/tacifier from a small oil company who I think supply to some of the super markets? At the present time we buy a 200 litre drum of oil & a 25litre drum of tacifier mixed up this works out at around $1.10 per 5 litres ( almost 10pints)
 
The Quake is running Walmart brand vegetable oil.

No problems with its first tank...


Sent from my iPhone 5 using Tapatalk
 
I use a lot of Amsoil products. I used to race KTM's in enduros and hare scrambles and Amsoil was very popular in that crowd. I use their 2-stroke and engine oils in my motorcycles, saws, boat, chipper, truck, etc. It has done very well, so I use their semi synthetic B&C Oil in the saws. It's certainly not the cheapest, but its by far the best out there. It is a semi synthetic, works fine in the hot or cold and I can lean hard on a 32" bar and .404 chain on one of my modded ms660's all day in large diameter red oak, maple, and ash and it will show basically no wear at all. (except the teeth from filing obviously) With the cheapo bar oils or substitutes I've been known to wear the side plates on a chain to the rivets way before the teeth are gone from sharpening. I've never had that happen using the Amsoil. Lot cheaper buying decent bar oil than it is making 96dl chains.
 
I have had decent luck with all major saw manufacturer's bar and chain oils but also the TSC bar and chain oil. Stihl Orange bottle oil is really expensive (dealers near me who bought in bulk used to have it for $10 but even they are up at $15 now). TSC, when it's on sale for $6 or $7 is by far the best deal out there, IMO.

If the oil is too thick warm it up or cut it with something lighter like diesel. The TSC and Stihl orange preform very well in spring summer fall but do get a little too thick come winter. That's what winter weight bar oil is for!
 
I have had decent luck with all major saw manufacturer's bar and chain oils but also the TSC bar and chain oil. Stihl Orange bottle oil is really expensive (dealers near me who bought in bulk used to have it for $10 but even they are up at $15 now). TSC, when it's on sale for $6 or $7 is by far the best deal out there, IMO.

If the oil is too thick warm it up or cut it with something lighter like diesel. The TSC and Stihl orange preform very well in spring summer fall but do get a little too thick come winter. That's what winter weight bar oil is for!


Thats all fine and dandy that you make it seem so simple to use a certin weight depending on the temperature BUT I have yet to see what the "weight" of the bar oil is on the jug or at a bare minimum say its a warm or cold weather oil.

Is there jugs out there that do have it on there.... yes maybe I dont know..... however in the 3 brands I tried they wernt on there ortherwise I wouldent have posted the question.
 
. . . I have yet to see what the "weight" of the bar is on the jug or at a bare minimum say its a warm or cold weather oil.

'Regular' bar and chain oil is typically not labeled 'summer' weight, but 'winter' grade is labeled. You might not see winter weight oil if you live in a warmer state, or only shop at big box saws. Look for it at a saw shop.

You can thin summer weight oil up to 50% with kerosene or diesel fuel, to your taste.

I believe that the guys spec'ing SAE 10 or 30 weight oil are referring to using single weight, non-detergent motor oil instead of commercial bar and chain oil.

Philbert
 
If you read the whole thread there is guys who talk about this.....but yea it would be a good idea
 
'Regular' bar and chain oil is typically not labeled 'summer' weight, but 'winter' grade is. You might not see winter weight oil if you live in a warmer state, or only shop at big box saws. Look for it at a saw shop.

You can thin summer weight oil up to 50% with kerosene or diesel fuel, to your taste.

I believe that the guys spec'ing SAE 10 or 30 weight oil are referring to using single weight, non-detergent motor oil instead of commercial bar and chain oil.

Philbert
Best comment yet. THANK YOU
 
The oils that I refer to are single grade sae 10 & 30 non detergent mineral oil, they are just basic oil without any of the additives now added to motor oils, as it is a once around the bar & flung off,( it does not have to be good for 1000s of miles ) so does not have to be any thing super. mixed with tacifier. it is used in a commercial setup/environment mostly 5/or 6, 8 hour days, the findings are that it keeps bars ,chains etc. lubricated as well as, & wear comparable to branded oil products, so at a more reasonable cost it is basically a no brainer, as anything to lower cost is good to go. I am not saying that this will suit everybody, & it is a horses for courses set up, but in our case it suits the best
 
Sometimes the weights are actually printed on the cardboard case cartons from the oil blender/bottler and not on the actual bottler.

To the OP: assume any bar oil that is not labeled as winter bar oil is going to be rather thick. Weight is only part of the equation the amount of tackifier also affects how it behaves at various temperatures. If you're interested in a particular brand you can always search for it on the site. The point is with the potential to thin with diesel or similar lighter weight petroleum products even if you wind up getting something that's too thick for your taste or temperature at the moment there's a tangible and relatively easy to use means of correcting the situation.
 
Or...

Just use

the oil you drain from your pickup..

The little metal flakes will help your chain cut the wood better :)


I’ve been using old engine oil going on thirty years now with no problems. Some people try to tell me my skin cancer, blindness in my left eye, liver failure, kidney failure, colon cancer, dementia, and lung disease are a result of me using this old oil and trying to save a few bucks, but I’m still skeptical.
 

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