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Hard to follow due to the videography. No real clear view of the tree to judge lean.

I was concerned about his back cut hitting the other trees, and might have thought about a bore cut just for that reason. Don't understand his comment, 'glad I didn't bore cut that'?

Philbert

The tree was punky in the middle, & according to his previous experiences, those tend to sit down & twist on his bar when boring.


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Hard to follow due to the videography. No real clear view of the tree to judge lean.

I was concerned about his back cut hitting the other trunks, and might have thought about a bore cut just for that reason. Don't understand his comment, 'glad I didn't bore cut that . . .'? (4:45)

Philbert
He said he was glad he didn't bore because it was a hard enough leaner where a large portion of the tree was in compression and would have sat on the bar. The trunk probably only had about 3" of tension fibers so any bore at that point would have been in compression wood. That's how I took it.

Yes I agree, not the most stable video and hard to get a clean look at the lean.
 
Hard to follow due to the videography. No real clear view of the tree to judge lean.

I was concerned about his back cut hitting the other trunks, and might have thought about a bore cut just for that reason. Don't understand his comment, 'glad I didn't bore cut that . . .'? (4:45)

Philbert
From what I saw, there didn't look like much of a leaner.
I know it sounds like a mantra of mine, but he had a dutchman in there and an angled backcut. Boring may have mitigated the damage as would have side cutting it, but then again I wasn't there.
 
After he had made the undercut, he commented on how clear the wood looked. Although there might have been a 4" core of centre rot, that would have been sawn out had he plunged out the heart thru the face, rendering the centre rot inconsequential.
 
I coos bay the maples and alder like that ,none have split on me so far ,if i hear one pop i will run like he did though . I do not care for the school marms like that ,gotta cut em over your head and chips go down your neck .
 
Depends which way you're pulling. Against the lean will help it from charing.

True that. I was assuming a pull on a leaner the way it is leaning when I wrote that.

Which I think is what the pulling guy was talking, a few pages back, but my mind could be foggy on that.

Holy, 20+ pages, we're in deep here...
 
I coos bay the maples and alder like that ,none have split on me so far ,if i hear one pop i will run like he did though . I do not care for the school marms like that ,gotta cut em over your head and chips go down your neck .
Can you add a coos bay diagram to the excellent collection of notepad diagrams we have in this thread? That's a method that hasn't been discussed in a while.
 
Thanks guys.

So what if you have a tree that has a really strong lean and you want it to just go with the lean but not barberchair? I'm talking a lean so strong that any type of face cut will result in a pinch.

Often I'll come across a tree (usually a pine/spruce/cedar, but sometimes a maple or aspen) that will partially uproot and then keep living. Frequently these will be tipped over a road after a windstorm or wet heavy snow because the roots were compromised on that side of the tree.
 
Someone said that by roping a tree you are making a leaner, but in fact every tree is a leaner as soon as you put your saw into it. A tree falls by making it lean.

I am a firewood hack and my falling cuts are not particularly good. I have chained and pulled 100's of trees, some of which we could not pull down and I had to put the saw back into them. I have never chaired one. Maybe cause we are pulling against the tension wood ????????? You guys are the pro's, just my own personal experience. So far, which may change tomorrow
 
Thanks guys.

So what if you have a tree that has a really strong lean and you want it to just go with the lean but not barberchair? I'm talking a lean so strong that any type of face cut will result in a pinch.

Often I'll come across a tree (usually a pine/spruce/cedar, but sometimes a maple or aspen) that will partially uproot and then keep living. Frequently these will be tipped over a road after a windstorm or wet heavy snow because the roots were compromised on that side of the tree.
You can offset your facecut up to 45 degrees from the lean using wedges, but it helps alot when you're actually there to bond with the tree before any cutting begins. Lol
 
Billy should wear a hardhat. Just like driving with no seatbelt, you may not need one until you've driven 100,000 miles or dumped 100,000 trees.
He wears a hard hat. His camera is on the hard hat so when he turns the camera on himself after a cut he takes the hat off his head to do so. There are a few occasions where believe he sets the hat down to get the shot and has no hat but for the most part he's wearing one. But yeah, it only takes one.
 

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