Bars used for Hot and Bike saws?

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gunnarfan

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I've been seeing a bunch of creative bar applications for various saws. Anyone using the oregon solid harvester 16h bars? I have encountered a surplus and am looking to see if they are worthwhile or may just move them. I have found some others that may be decent for remilling the ends and be useful for the larger engine saws. Also got a lucky score and found a GB titanium cn40 bar that will fit the larger sachs era dolmars. I believe its intended for .404 chain. I have a 143 handy and already have that outfitted.. anyways that runs 3/8 currently

Will discuss further if theres any interest. You guys are always good for ideas.
 
i have access to a stack of new and used. will also confirm if there are any 18h available and i do know that there are some other long harvester type bars. i still have a new windsor hard tip handy and may get a couple used.

again.. any success stories with this sort of bar would be well received.

pms always welcome from folks with advice and interest.

if bill g is around.. know anybody hunting for a mercury disston do-101? i remembered that you had a bunch of two man stuff at one point.. and that made me think of this saw. i have an as found that i'm studying that could be useful to a restorer. this one is setup for one person without the helper handle.

i'm unloading a bunch of stuff so i can move into a more permanent home that i can setup shop at and focus on some builds.
 
I am intersted in 16H bars but not any 18H ones. As for the D0101 yes I am always looking for another vintage saw.

Bill
 
will confirm the amount of 16h that i can get ahold of and what lengths. most will be new and a couple used. i appreciate the guidance in what to nab. i'll get a pic up of that do101. theres a couple sandvik windsor bars as well that might be similar as well. again will get pics.
 
heres that group of bars i was considering

heres an overview of the sort of bar i've been running into. i can get a few more of the sandvik and smaller oregon new and used. the larger oregon i can get 4 total i believe. the sachs bar new is just that one though i have the same sized used but in good shape. any input on success stories is cool.

and yes to Bill G i'll be getting more of that 17 on and assessing my other big ol boys.
 
I would be interested in the top 4 bars. The bottom 1 I am not sure of.

Bill
 
i can get a few more of the yellow oregon if needed. also some used with chains and a couple of the sandvik lightly used with chains. based on the racing videos i'd seen i'm figuring those big bars should go with a rotax or something like that. its not like i don't come up with ideas.. my wife wishes i'd slow down, but oh well.
 
Why havester bars?

I am just curious why you would use A havester bar, the only thing I can think of is so you can got with A 1/2" chain instead of A 3/8".

Me, I'm still tryin to get the chain sha sharpening down but I am building A saw right now and need to know if I'll be okay a 125cc using A regular bar..
 
the harvester bars question could best be resolved by looking at anything romeo has posted regarding bikesaws. the chain on a 16h bar is .404 at .63. the guys with experience are recommending them for custom builds off 250cc motors or so like from a snow sled or a dirt bike. i'm just going to trust them on that. i'd say they go well with the harvester sprockets used in those big builds... just a guess.

my question would be.. how about a chain catcher for when the chain gets thrown!?!
 
my question would be.. how about a chain catcher for when the chain gets thrown!?!

A chain catcher is a wonderfull thing. But............given the chain speed running a 16 to 20 pin sprocket on a 250cc bike engine, your bike saw can easily become a bike shotgun when the chain catcher suddenly attempts to stop that mass.
The person I asked to move in the video that Romeo posted was sitting in a chair about 30' away, directly in my sight's.

Andy
 
hehehe.

I watched the video, nice run! I have never had onecome apart, I've had it get too loose and come off the bar, but not fly off completely. I'm working on my first 125cc saw right now, I am thinking of just using A standard bar 3/8" full chisel chain. I think the havester chain ould be A bit too heavy for 125cc.
 
Let me be blunt, go with .063 gage and good 404 chain. Stihl chain is alright but is almost brittle and Oregon grows as you cut but is more forgiving. Unlike the idiots lawyer that got hit from a chunk of your chain because you thought it cool to shave the chassy at all.

If it don't scare you when you run it, don't build one because your a bomb waiting to happen.
 
I am just curious why you would use A havester bar, the only thing I can think of is so you can got with A 1/2" chain instead of A 3/8".

Me, I'm still tryin to get the chain sha sharpening down but I am building A saw right now and need to know if I'll be okay a 125cc using A regular bar..

The harvester bars are used with .404 chain. I have bever seen one used with 3/8. I do not know about other brands but the Oregon 16H bars are about 0.239". The kerf of 3/8" chain is less thus you will get stuck quick. Not to mention the .404 nose being a problem.

Now if someone has adapted one to 3/8 I would love to see it.

The advantage I see with the harvester bars is the larger belly and the large tail. The larger belly allows for quicker speeds and the large tail allows for larger sprockets.

A custon large bellt roller nose would be better but those are more expensive.

Bill
 
sprockets sprockets

the next thing i'm going to be looking into is where to get a deal on sprockets to support these bars. anyone can feel free to PM me with tips... already checked bailey's so thanks ahead of time. sometimes its worth it to get a deal when its going to go to an experiment. i'm currenlty looking into bike and electric applications (watching to many logosol videos). who knows.. its late my mind wanders and i entertain it.
 
Let me be blunt, go with .063 gage and good 404 chain. Stihl chain is alright but is almost brittle and Oregon grows as you cut but is more forgiving. Unlike the idiots lawyer that got hit from a chunk of your chain because you thought it cool to shave the chassy at all.

If it don't scare you when you run it, don't build one because your a bomb waiting to happen.

Now Chris,
Are you making fun of me for trying to "shave down" a chain for my bike saw?
I know that rock wall 300' away didn't think it was funny.:jawdrop: :laugh:
It don't scare me, but as soon as it fires my respect for that monster sure gets high.
I can't remember anyone ever calling me "The Bomb" before.

Andy
 
No Andy I was not spacifically refering to you and our conversation. I have talked with quite a few people who have had a similar expirience. As far as being scared, it's a relitive term. At a show you decribe asking someone to move. Knowing if something happens they are in harms way. About 5-6 times a year Bill Simcox will tell the story of a chain breaking at Cherry Springs. It went through the shoulder of the first person ( Mrs. Harry Burnsworth ) and stuck in the leg of the person behind her. That was a half inch chain. I have talked to West and East coast guys who talk about chain issues that they have had or seen.
I threw a 404 high tooth at my last show. I layed it accross the top of the block. Scared kinda hits about 10 minutes later when you realize your buddy 100 ft away with 2 little screens in between could of caught part of the chain if it broke. Trying to say I'm sorry for being a dumb ars is hard to say to his son and wife.
Paul Phinniger has big blue forsale a 250cc saw that runs 3/8's chain. If I remeber its a 20 something sprocket. Do the speed calculation on that one then figure out the moving mass weight at that speed. If you can't I imagine Timberwolf can crank that one out.
 

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