Just the process of a running bowline tightening under tension applies a lot of friction. I've seen nylon glaze pretty bad just from that. But hey, ya saved fifty bucks.
Basic Bull / Rigging rope question from someone new to the site.....
- Thread starter cdherman
- Start date
Help Support Arborist Forum:
Not sure about your input. The Husky rope is supposed to be nylon core with a poly outer layer. And for me, the extra stretch of the nylon is a plus.
At the end of the day, if we glaze the ending loop of a rope once in a while, it becomes a shorter rope. But for me, the stretch was more useful.
Anyhow, thanks all for the input. Rope is in the mail and the trees are still standing.
Pelorus
Uva uvam vivendo varia fit
The working end of the rope gets more wear and tear than the rest of it irrespective of what knot you use.
My ropes gradually get shorter before they die. People are the same way. They shrink with old age.
My ropes gradually get shorter before they die. People are the same way. They shrink with old age.
This is the link for an Arborist book http://www.fs.fed.us/rm/pubs_journals/2015/rmrs_2015_berdeen_j001.pdf There are many approved knots and methods in there. I'd suggest browsing over it. Save a copy for reference and the knots are a step by step if I remember correctly in there also.
Myself, I use a 10k winch with ~3/8" synthetic line for my pulling. Haven't found a branch or tree I couldn't wrangle with it. Normally I use a 30k tree saver/ tow strap -> shackle -> FLATLINK Expert -> Winch line. Overtop of the setup I still use some of the winch safety blankets to lower the 'rope' to the ground in an instance of catastrophic failure. Then systematically pull the offending branches away. Might start a cut where i want it to break off and work that way. If It is a whole tree? I still systematically lower the canopy first, then topple it.
Myself, I use a 10k winch with ~3/8" synthetic line for my pulling. Haven't found a branch or tree I couldn't wrangle with it. Normally I use a 30k tree saver/ tow strap -> shackle -> FLATLINK Expert -> Winch line. Overtop of the setup I still use some of the winch safety blankets to lower the 'rope' to the ground in an instance of catastrophic failure. Then systematically pull the offending branches away. Might start a cut where i want it to break off and work that way. If It is a whole tree? I still systematically lower the canopy first, then topple it.
Fireaxman
ArboristSite Guru
The "Rope on Rope" contact point of a running bowline is a significant wear point on the working end of your rope. You can mitigate this by inserting a clevis, screw link, or other smooth metal surface at this contact point, preserving the working end of your rope, reducing friction, and stregthening your tie in point. Just be sure the smooth metal link equals or exceeds the working strength of your rope. If you don't have to pull very hard, this might not be significant, but with a 20k tractor you may not have precise control over how hard you are pulling. And, I have been surprised several times when I had to pull a LOT harder than I thought I would, most recently when the top of the tree I was falling got hung up in vines and limbs of neighboring trees.
Similar threads
