Best Bar for Milling

[TSRuff]

I just picked up my brand new MS 880 (to me) and a 36" Mark III Alaskan Chainsaw Mill, have some big oaks felled, and am missing only the bar. I'm looking for some advice on what the best solution is.

I've used a roller-tip bar before, but you have to set the clamp fairly far down the length of the bar to avoid pinching the sprocket bearing, so I'd be looking at a 50" bar which is significantly more expensive than a 42".

Solid-tip bars obviously don't have this issue, but I'm concerned about chain durability. Problem is, I can't find a 42"+ solid-tip bar (granted, I didn't try very long before posting here).

Anyone wish to share their experience and point me in the right direction? Any and all advice is appreciated...

 

[tomtrees58]

i have a new 50" hard nose got it years ago $500.00 tom trees

 

[glennschumann]

42" bar

For the 36" alaskan, the 42" bar is just about right. Any longer and the bar will be exposed on the power head side (more dangerous, and it makes the mill more tippy) or out the other end, and having that end exposed (without the protection piece) is dangerous in many ways.
I use a 42" roller tip Oregon Powermatch (3/8" 0.063 from Baileys about $90) and it works just great. I don't have to clamp on the tip, and the amount of bar exposed at the powerhead end is not too much, but lets the chainbrake operate. I'd recommend this set up to anybody, but man... an MS880? Lucky you!

Hope that helps.

 

[TSRuff]

securing the saw?

I don't have to clamp on the tip, and the amount of bar exposed at the powerhead end is not too much, but lets the chainbrake operate. I'd recommend this set up to anybody, but man... an MS880? Lucky you!

Hope that helps.

Thanks for the good info... one followup question:

You only clamp into the mill at the powerhead end? I once forgot to clamp the tip on a smaller saw and about 3" into the cut I ran the chain into the guard. How are you getting it that secure?

 

[BobL]

Thanks for the good info... one followup question:

You only clamp into the mill at the powerhead end?

He means right on the end of the nose, he clamps further back.

I just posted a whole lot of options for bar nose clamps in the "Milling 101" sticky (first post in the milling forum)- see post #24

I used a hardnose 42" bar for several years, because I also have a GB style mill I get 39.5" of cut from the 42" bar.

Now I also use roller and sprocket nose bars and have solutions described in the sticky.

 

[2506]

36" Alaskan and 42" Bar

I have been running a new 660 on a 36" Alaskan with the Oregan Powermatch 42" bar. I get a 33 1/2" max cut with it. I built my own guard for the non power end. I am totally satisfied with this setup. I do however wish I would have gotten the 880 instead, as the 660 bogs down a bit and is slow going when maxed out, otherwise I am in "Hog Heaven".

 

[TSRuff]

I just posted a whole lot of options for bar nose clamps in the "Milling 101" sticky (first post in the milling forum)- see post #24

And that's the reason I'm already addicted to this site... exactly what I was looking for! Thanks for all the info, I've got a 42" sprocket nose bar on order!

 

[BobL]

And that's the reason I'm already addicted to this site... exactly what I was looking for!

Addicted after only 4 posts - man . . . . you got it BAD!

 

[aggiewoodbutchr]

It's funny how my eyes have skipped right over that sticky this whole time.

I'll get my butt in there and contribute tomorrow.

 

[BobL]

It's funny how my eyes have skipped right over that sticky this whole time.

I'll get my butt in there and contribute tomorrow.

That will be excellent - make sure you post some pics too!