The oil gets rubbed off more then it's slung off.
Best bar oil?
- Thread starter Hunt4lumber
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If you're gonna use old motor oil, strain it first and also filter with a magnet
I ran use motor oil in one of my ms290's for 10 years with no oil pump issues. Remember motor oil is filtered very well by the oil filter in the motor. The only reason it needs changing is the carbon and burnt fuel components that get trapped in the oil. I don't use the real black oil thats been run to long or diesel oil. I change my motor oils fairly often so it's not heavily contaminated. I wouldn't use the real black oil but if it's fairly clean then I reuse it as bar oil.
Remember, the stuff that settles to the bottom of the oil pan and isn't circulated through the oil pump is still dumped into the oil pan when you drain it.
Anything in your used engine oil, that your bar would even notice, would destroy your engine in short order. As long as your collection methods are clean and your engine is in relatively good condition, that's simply a non issue. I wouldn't run it because I don't want the mess around me and my property, and I don't want to be breathing the aerosolized oil, but metal bits destroying your bar is ridiculous.
I'd prefer to run vegetable oil, just don't want it gumming up and causing problems. Been there, done that.
I run whatever bar oil I can find that's cheap and get on with life.
I'd prefer to run vegetable oil, just don't want it gumming up and causing problems. Been there, done that.
I run whatever bar oil I can find that's cheap and get on with life.
Yeah, maybe 40 years ago when motor oil sucked and had sludge issues or you don't run the motor longer then 3 min at a time. Motor oil has come a long way and once the motor gets hot, any sludge build up quickly blends with the hot oil and gets filtered. Better motor oil is why we can now get 300K+ miles on a motor before it's toast. Remember when 100K was the limit for engine life. Not anymore. 300K is common now days. Not because the motors are better, but because the oil is better. I have not had any issues running clean used motor oil in over a decade. Bar oil is ether slung off or rubbed off in quick order. Thats why a saw uses so much of it. It's a one time short lived oil that is only on the bar for a few seconds. Others can do what they want, it's there money. I prefer reusing oil that would normally be tossed out. In the past 18 years I have only had one bar failure and that was the old stile where you had to grease the bar sprocket through that little hole. All my stihl bars oil the tip sprocket automatically via bar oil.
I assure you the oil is not the only reason for modern engines going so long, or really even a major factor in the longevity of an engine. Machining tolerances on both the engine, and tools making the engine have tightened up significantly from the older days, better material selection, for parts, modern fuel Injection, electronic engine controls, and believe it or not tighter emission standards. The engines run better and cleaner because of how technology has progressed. The oil now a days has had more removed from it then anything of years past, most the zinc is gone in a effort to save catalytic converters. Were running thinner oil as well, which has less protection for an engine if it has sloppy tolerances, but due to better machining practices we can run the thinner oil. Which also takes less power to pump, and has a lower coefficient of drag.
The oil itself isnt solely responsible for it. I also largely believe people take better care of their vehicles because of the idiot lights and reminders popping up on the dash when the cars need attention.
Horrigan72
ArboristSite Member
What ever you use, DO NOT USE this garbage!! This is what it turns into if you let it set over the winter. This stuff was the cheapest so I figured why not.. Nightmare from hell!
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My neighbor uses used motor oil, and I get his chains to grind sometimes.
When I get them, they look like they have been sprayed with tar. Sometimes I have to wire brush them after they come out of the ultrasonic cleaner.
They don't actually feel bound up, but that gunk dries hard... It can't be a good lubricant.
When I get them, they look like they have been sprayed with tar. Sometimes I have to wire brush them after they come out of the ultrasonic cleaner.
They don't actually feel bound up, but that gunk dries hard... It can't be a good lubricant.
What ever you use, DO NOT USE this garbage!! This is what it turns into if you let it set over the winter. This stuff was the cheapest so I figured why not.. Nightmare from hell!View attachment 895354
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Wow, I thought old canola oil was bad. That's a lot worse.
I'd try to dissolve that gunk in various things like turpentine, fresh veggie oil, and degreaser, and then flush out the saw with whatever dissolves the gunk well.
Certain kinds of metals will react with the veggie oil as a catalyst and cause those goo issues too. People doing waste vegetable oil conversions on their diesels have had those issues using certain metals in their fuel systems.
The small/big block is the same as it's been since it was created. The only difference is in the smog and fuel delivery systems. The tolerance's may be a bit better but the block and heads are still the same.
Umm no they are not. The iron and steel isnt even the same formulations as they were 20 years ago. The old pushrod engine were very different make up from years ago. Show me a old production v6/8 that had overhead cams and aluminum heads. Cam phasers and turbos. The metallurgy has changed significantly. By gone are the modular cast iron blocks and heads. Just because they have pistons and rods does not mean they are made the same, with the same materials. I'm saying this from working at an engine machine shop for most my life, as one if their mechanics. Heck most of the engines they stated to hot hone, and changed over to diamond hones to get the proper finish on the newer metals used in the cylinders. And when I say they have tighter tolerances I mean we went from .005" on mains down to .0015". They tightened every thing up. Even piston clearances got tighter thanks to new piston material and designs.
sbhooper
Addicted to ArboristSite
If you see lubricant that says it is biodegradable, then be very careful. Something ain't right, if it biodegrades. Just use regular bar oil and be done with it. You are not changing the environment, by not using decent lubricant.What ever you use, DO NOT USE this garbage!! This is what it turns into if you let it set over the winter. This stuff was the cheapest so I figured why not.. Nightmare from hell!View attachment 895354
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What does any of that have to do with using used motor oil for bar oil?
There are plenty of old school motors still on the road. My bet is, if all you did was run modern oils in them they would get higher millage then the same motor did just 50 years ago using the oils of the day. My point was simply that new oils are far better then the oil of the past.
I prefer veggie oil for bar oil because petroleum bar oil messes with my sinuses every bit as much as choice of two stroke oil does. A good bit of the oil is aerosolized by the 60+mph chain speed, and you wind up breathing it in. Petroleum bar oil messes with my sinuses, veggie oil doesn't.
I run petroleum bar oil because my saws can sit for months at a time and veggie oil turns to sludge. If I was running my saws weekly, you bet I'd use veggie oil.
The same thing your comment about engines being the same as they were 50 years ago.
Most are.
There are plenty of old school motors still on the road. My bet is, if all you did was run modern oils in them they would get higher millage then the same motor did just 50 years ago using the oils of the day.
