Best hand file & setup for sharpening.

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7/32 files for 3/8 chain. The chain we use on 372-288 Huskys (chisel) that is made by Oregon or Stihl has the angle line on the top of the cutter. Never had that untill a few years ago. I like to change the side angle to greater degree after I already have the top angle done by dropping down the hand that has the file handle. This puts a hook in the tooth when you look down on it. Hook in the top and in the side, rakers at about 30thou, cuts great. I only use this for falling, cause if you hit dirt, a rock etc. it takes a while to get an decent edge back. I don't think you can fool around like that with a guide.
 
Except the vanguard chain, which takes different file sizes than most other tooth profiles of the same gauge. For the 3/8 Vanguard chain I've got, Oregon specs a 3/16 file.

Jimbo
 
E-lux roller guide

victorytea said:
I agree with Corey, I really like the Husky roller file guide and it's almost as fast as using no guide at all- try one. Paul F B
I (and Glens, who regrettably isn't with us anymore) agree with you and Corey, they work great once you get the hang of it.
They also has the added benefit that you can leave your gloves off while sharpening, as you can use the guide as a handle to rotete the chain. :blob2:

PS; I really miss Glens! :cry:
 
clearance said:
7/32 files for 3/8 chain.
Stihl recommends 13/64 for their 3/8" chain, and they are right!

Oregon recommends 7/32 for most of their 3/8" chain, and they are right, too!
There are exceptions though, so better check their safety and maintenance manual!
 
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SawTroll said:
I (and Glens, who regrettably isn't with us anymore) agree with you and Corey, they work great once you get the hang of it.
They also has the added benefit that you can leave your gloves off while sharpening, as you can use the guide as a handle to rotete the chain. :blob2:

PS; I really miss Glens! :cry:


Obviously I must have missed something!

What hs happened to our friend Glens ?
 
I like the line on top of the cutters. It makes it easier to pick the shortest one to start with. But I've bought Oregon chain that didn't have it. Is it something they recently started, or is it only on certain chains?
 
Nevermind, went to the Oregon site and answered my own question. They call it a "witness mark".
 
Glens

Lobo said:
Obviously I must have missed something!

What hs happened to our friend Glens ?
As I recall, he was "removed" (not just "banned") as a result of a tread containing a rather heated discussion about changes in site rules a while ago. Very unfortunate, and not Glens fault, if you ask me. :angry: :angry2:
We have lost one of the most intelligent, knowledgeable and helpful members.

I am not able to find that tread today.
 
I am new here but I learned to RESPECT Glens in a very short time.

I'm sorry to learn that he is gone :(...must have missed that tread too.

Dario
 
I know some who were banned can come back using a new name...will they be the same posting wise? I mean I would think some will lay low and might not be able to give advise as easily as they did before.

I am not into extremes or "flaming" wars but different opinions are actually healthy to some degree...maybe even necessary (in this forum about chainsaws of course).

Policies and stuff I'll leave to the administrators...I am but a visitor, I won't try to re-arrange stuff around here if I know my place.

Dario
 
I use Stihl files and Oregon files. I have been using all Stihls lately though as I scored a half dozen boxes of them for cheaper than I could buy the Oregons. I prefer either of these brands over Pferd. The Pferd files seem to cut too fine for my tastes. The Stihls cut farely fine as well, but still remove material faster than the Pferds. The Oregons remove the most material the fastest, but wear out faster as well.
Lobo, The chain sharp sucks IMO. Its way to easy to get the rackers out of wack when using one. The Oregon roller guides work much better.
 
Differences of opinion can be handled in a civil manner. Some of those that were banned couldn't seem to manage that.
 
bwalker said:
Lobo, The chain sharp sucks IMO. Its way to easy to get the rackers out of wack when using one. The Oregon roller guides work much better.

Thanks for the heads-up Ben. I have always been intrigued by that Stay Sharp filer, but had never tried one. However I do like my rakers lower than .025 around .022'' or so and .027'' intead of .030'' so I havent really worried much about tickling the rakers.
 
Ben, thanks but it is not necessary I will take your word for it.
 
i agree a simple plate type guide is all you really need. it's a good way to go for in the field use or a quick touch up as tony said.a few passes on each tooth . tony you probably have some machine shop experience "witness lines/marks)" on the plate holder. ther is no shame at all in using a guide. if you choose to go freehand and your off a few degrees you can really mess up the side plate of the tooth and other angles creating a hook. also an angle that is too great can cause kickback , dangerous .
realisticlly if you do any real cutting just buy new chains or have those stubborn ones proffesionally sharpened with a machine designed for it. i can get a new chain made up for my stihl saw for around 14 bucks.
just go take that old chain that you have been hittin your knuckles and slaving on to get it sharp and go see how it cuts then go back and put a brand new one on and see the difference. to me its not worth all that hassle i get 2 made up for 28 bucks(1 for back up) and they last... untill you hit a rock or something. lol

http://hand-tools.hardwarestore.com...ols/chain-saw-file-guide-and-file-228296.aspx

http://64.233.161.104/search?q=cach...ainsaw_Sharp+dont+sharpen+your+chainsaw&hl=en
 
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learn how to do it .Consistency is absolutely crucial when you file your chain.
 
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Try engaging the chain brake while sharpening so the chain stays still. That helps me in the field. It's hard to find a vise on a wildland fire....
 

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