Best hand file & setup for sharpening.

[lawmart]

i am of the opion that if you learn the hard way, on the ground saw beside you then you will never be stuck in any situation where your chain is dull and you cant shapen it.
I was taught this when i started, i 15 years later, i will doit on the side walk, porch,grass where ever
it s weard i really dont like using a vise or gages seams they dull the files to much for me(costly).
all my chain have the markers on the top , if you partice a lot,it becomes second nature and your body and hands naturally fall in to the proper angles all the time
When i first satrted i used one hand and glove , now i two hand the file mostly
I have found stil and frued to be the best for removing material and live of file

Lawmart
playsafe

 

[SawTroll]

Try engaging the chain brake while sharpening so the chain stays still. That helps me in the field. It's hard to find a vise on a wildland fire....

I don't like to do it that way, as you only lock the chain, so it will still wobble a lot sideways. You also have to put the brake off/on several times during the sharpening prosess.
I find it better to either tighten the chain with the chain tightener, or by putting the scrench or another suitable object between the chain and the bar at the underside.

 

[smokechase II]

You can clean the chain acceptably in the field by simply cutting dry, solid wood.
You can cut into a log, on the off-side a bit, to make a holder for your saw. Although this is not a vise, it can be a nice platform to work from.
Some chains are stamped with an angle guide on the top back of each tooth. That keeps me "squared" away.
Admittedly, Using a guide occasionally back at the compound is nice to get rid of my mistakes and really true up the teeth.
BUT; where a guide is most important is raker depth. (Actually, rakers are on cross cuts - depth guides are on chain saw chains). Rakers need to be set exactly right based on user experience, wood being cut, saw power and so forth. Start with your rakers high and you'll have a lower kick back risk.

 

[turnkey4099]

My problem had always been filing with different hands. Right on one side and left on the other. Hard to keep both sides alike. Then someone way back when on this site (I think) clued me in when filing on the bench.

Mount the saw upside down in the vise. Stand alongside the powerhead for one side, stand at the tip facing the powerhead for the other side. That lets you file both sides right handed and much better. I don't know if it would work for lefties.

Harry K

 

[pinus]

May be it is not very prevalent method for the chain sharpening, but one old logger learned me to sarpen chain, sitting and keeping saw upright between the knees the bar nose up left hand fixes bar and chain (dont forget gloves) and filing tooths on the bar tip. After one side tooths rotating saw near 180 degree for the other side tooths
It is very good method in the forest (sitting on stub or log) for the sharpening (if bar is not very long).

 

[belgian]

Stihl recommends 13/64 for their 3/8" chain, and they are right!

Oregon recommends 7/32 for most of their 3/8" chain, and they are right, too!
There are exceptions though, so better check their safety and maintenance manual!

Niko,

can you confirm that you use 13/64 (5,2 mm) for both RM and RSC chains for your 361 ?

I'm a little confused since on other forums, someone recommended 7/32 (5,5)for those Stihl chains.

thanks
Roland

 

[SawTroll]

... can you confirm that you use 13/64 (5,2 mm) for both RM and RSC chains for your 361 ?

I'm a little confused since on other forums, someone recommended 7/32 (5,5)for those Stihl chains. ...

Yes, I use the 13/64" file on both the RM and RSC, but I have also used 7/32" on reasonably new RM some years ago, without any ill effects that I remember.

I find that the 13/64 file is better for the first few sharpenings on the RSC, and for the last part of the chains life on both versions, so why not use it all the way as Stihl recommends?
I even use it on Oregon chain (73LP/LG) for the last part of the chains life.

 

[skwerl]

I don't buy the 13/64" files because they are too easily confused with my 3/16" files (used for .325 chain). On Stihl chain, a 7/32" file will hit the back of the raker if used at the proper angle for the first 3 strokes on a new chain. So therefore the first time I sharpen a Stihl 3/8" chain I change the angle by 3-5 degrees for the first 3 strokes. From then on, everythnig is normal.

 

[sal b]

The main thing is practice, practice, practice!

aint that the truth. also i agree with SKEWL about 13/64 we use 7/32 at work for the 3/8 saws

 

[Gypo Logger]

i am of the opion that if you learn the hard way, on the ground saw beside you then you will never be stuck in any situation where your chain is dull and you cant shapen it.
I was taught this when i started, i 15 years later, i will doit on the side walk, porch,grass where ever
it s weard i really dont like using a vise or gages seams they dull the files to much for me(costly).
all my chain have the markers on the top , if you partice a lot,it becomes second nature and your body and hands naturally fall in to the proper angles all the time
When i first satrted i used one hand and glove , now i two hand the file mostly
I have found stil and frued to be the best for removing material and live of file

Lawmart
playsafe

Lawnmart, that's a good attitude to filing versatility. If we can file with the saw on our lap, a stump, tailgate, vise or even the kitchen table equaly well then that will make a person a better filer.
Most would be filers first mistake is trying to reserect a severely abraded chain with a used up file.
Frequency and proficiency of filing and an abhorance of abrasive material is what makes us a productive saw operator.
John

 

[Big Woody]

Best hand technique ever

The best hand technique I have ever seen was by a really old guy who sharpened a lot of chains in his life. I guess he perfected it over the years. He would hold the chain taught with his left hand and then carefully use his right hand to flip the switch on his chain grinder and bring the head down. His chains were very sharp. I'm practicing with his hand technique now.

 

[SawTroll]

I don't buy the 13/64" files because they are too easily confused with my 3/16" files (used for .325 chain). ......

I don't confuse them, as I use different looking handles on the different sizes.

I don't have any need to bring spares into the woods, so they are kept in their original box/envelope....

 

[SWE#Kipp]

This is a sweet one

Heres my favorite guide ,,,,

 

[2wheels]

hand file

I would like to break down hand filing a little further.
I stand on the side of the tooth to be filed, Face the cutter while looking right down the point on the same angle as the top plate. If you are on the left side of the saw (as veiwed from the operating position) File would be in left hand and right hand would be on bar stabilizing chain. Forearm, wrist and file are also on top plate angle and file level. I start with palm up,elbow at 90 degress. Start forward with tip of file on tooth and rotate your wrist into the top plate, finishing the stroke with palm down arm extrended. This will keep the file in place, sharpen both top and side plate at the same time while removing more material than a simple back and forward motion.
you will find that practice is need to develope this technique on your non dominate side

It also is easier on the back to have the saw a little higher than waist level.
preferably the top of the bar would be right at the elbow joint while standing.

Bougth first saw in 1977 and have exculsivly filed by hand.

 

[John Ellison]

Kipp, never seen a square file guide before. Who makes that? Looks like it would keep the top plate edge straight but the rest would still be freehand. Seems like it would be a good one especially if you had never sq. filed. and were not sure how to approach it. Is there any kind of chain stop on it?
Kind of like the crock stick knife sharpener.

 

[SWE#Kipp]

Atop

yes there is a chain stopper and its very easy to use i think walkers got them for 3/8 chain I got the one .325