Best Method for reducing long fireewood

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ReggieT

ReggieT

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Just picked up a load of hundreds of seasoned hickory rounds mostly between 4-5 inches in circumference, but they're about 3 inch longer than my fireplace capacity.
Any way, other than stuffing them to capacity in a old tire and sawing through them or hand-sawing them individually to quickly cut em to length?

I've used a few shorter pieces for start up and they are excellent.

Thanks
 
Wrenchbender16

Wrenchbender16

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Just picked up a load of hundreds of seasoned hickory rounds mostly between 4-5 inches in circumference, but they're about 3 inch longer than my fireplace capacity.
Any way, other than stuffing them to capacity in a old tire and sawing through them or hand-sawing them individually to quickly cut em to length?

I've used a few shorter pieces for start up and they are excellent.

Thanks

I use a 12" miter box I picked up at a pawn shop for cheap .
3363538864dff9d3c9c81a014be4a23e.jpg



Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
trophyhunter

trophyhunter

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Reg make a sawbuck out of some scrap framing lumber with an extra brace close to the end to support those, much faster than handling it on a chop saw and if you build it high enough those small end cuts can fall right into a wheel barrow under it. Load it clear to the top and use a strap around the pile to keep them put while your running the saw through them if need be.
 

DFK

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Dry Hickory is hard to cut with Chop Saws, Table Saws and Band Saws.
If you go with the Chop Saw, get yourself an aggressive tooth, wide kerf, crosscut blade and go slow.

David
 
dwasifar

dwasifar

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Hmm...really like this idea...there a plenty of decent miter saws to be had on the cheap on the local Craigslist.
I used to do this until one day the saw threw a crooked piece right past my ear at approximately 735 miles per hour. Knocked a dent in the garage wall and deflected the saw blade far enough sideways that it took a chunk out of the aluminum fence.

I don't put anything without at least one flat side on the miter saw anymore after that.
 
Mad Professor
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Stack it as high as you can reach safely with a chainsaw and just cut through the stack. Leave the bottom row 1/2 cut and finish those after picking up the cut stuff.

We used to do this with stacks of log length piles with a big saw and a 28" bar. Could cut a whole lot in rounds quick and the whole pile in short order
 
ReggieT

ReggieT

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Dry Hickory is hard to cut with Chop Saws, Table Saws and Band Saws.
If you go with the Chop Saw, get yourself an aggressive tooth, wide kerf, crosscut blade and go slow.

David
You darn right it is...harder than a freaking...er, well...it's mighty hard!:yes:
I probably wont ever try snapping one across my knew...EVER again!:cry::eek:
 
ReggieT

ReggieT

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I used to do this until one day the saw threw a crooked piece right past my ear at approximately 735 miles per hour. Knocked a dent in the garage wall and deflected the saw blade far enough sideways that it took a chunk out of the aluminum fence.

I don't put anything without at least one flat side on the miter saw anymore after that.
Y-I-K-E-S!!!!!!:surprised3::eek:
 

DSW

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A miter saw has a minimal depth of cut. You're going to have to spin it around a bit. And they will toss a round back occasionally.

I would just use a saw and a saw buck.
 

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