Wood handles feel better to me, and with a little care will last many years. You just have to get the sites adjusted:greenchainsaw:. You can also fiberglass on a metal guard strip forged to match the curve of the handle just at the typical strike point about 2-3" down from the maul or ax head.
If you get glass splinters from an early glass handle, just coat the handle with 2 part epoxy resin thickened with talc and put it somewhere warm to cure. This works great on on all types of rough old wood handles. A little fiberglass cloth over the epoxy will fix any handle with a structural crack, and when cured cover the glass with another thin coat of epoxy. This stuff really increases the durability of wood handles, and it also absorbs energy to spare your hands. You can use poly visqueen wrapped around the wet epoxy to help form it smooth; it comes right off when cured. Also, smooth the epoxy it with a wood rasp before fully cured, saves labor.
Another thing: when re-heading an axe, form a shoulder then draw the handle down to form a loose fit with 3/32 to 1/8" clearance all around, then apply Sikaflex construction sealant (polyurethane) to fill the void between handle and head (the big boxes sell this nowadays). Neatness don't count, just wear vinyl gloves and leave no gaps. Check for square in two axes (the other kind) and leave to cure for 3 days (a week in winter). Use a wire wheel to clean up the excess sealant from handle and head, then drive a steel wedge or two in the head and seal entire handle with good varnish or better yet your favorite 2-part epoxy (lasts much longer). The polyurethane is great adhesive, compresses as the wood expands/contracts in winter/summer, and this saves the wood cellulose from crushing in winter, so the handle should never loosen up, knock on wood. It also absorbs energy, sparing your hands. An 8 lb maul I've got with a hickory handle is still tight after 6 years outside.
