Best way to break in a chainsaw??

[Michaelmj11]

I must side with stinkbait. I have built hundreds of motors of all kinds. If the machine work is solid, the dog is ready to hunt. A new saw is a machinests work of art, and should be run like intended from the start. If it isn't, lets hope it blows in the first year. Keep them clean,run good gas, and gear them up. NOW WERE CUTTING-----MIKE

Any thoughts about the soaking the chain overnight?

 

[quotejso2]

man u had two month old saw blow up and u didnt get a new free one u got screwed u shoulda lied about what u were cutting.

 

[minermike]

Any thoughts about the soaking the chain overnight?

We soaked the chain for my wifes hot saw in prolong for a week or so. Don't know if it helped or not. Did a 10.6 in a 30 in sugar pine log last weekend . I think it was the nitro that helped the most-----mike

 

[Michaelmj11]

man u had two month old saw blow up and u didnt get a new free one u got screwed u shoulda lied about what u were cutting.

Well I basically got a new saw, or at least the innards of one, and like I said the mechanic is a friend so I'm not complaining about that so much as how Stupidly long it is taking to get fixed... (and as for lying well the place I was harvesting the trees from is about 1/4 mile from the Stihl shop, and the shop guys really went to bat for me, the decisions were made by Stihl corp......)

But yah I was rather surprised myself at not getting a new saw, especially when the explanation I was given was that "the saw overheated when it was gapping"......
Once (if it IS ever fixed) the shop owners are going to help me sell it, so.... Yah it is what it is.

 

[quotejso2]

So ur paying for labor?

 

[Michaelmj11]

So ur paying for labor?

Yah, not exactly happy that Stihl isn't, but at this stage it is what it is.

 

[Derf]

Ok, this is my first post, and before I get too far, allow me to say that I am NOT a gear-head/mechanic, I know Nothing (well mostly nothing) about motors/engines.

I have owned 2... well 3 as of yesterday.... all 3 Stihl's a ms170, ms391, ms661.

I was reading over this post because the ms391 "blew up", I belive is the phrase I have seen used, after 2 months of use. By blew up I mean it lost all compression, and basically needed a whole engine rebuild. Stihl said it was due to improper use (I was using it to mill an oak that was 18-20 inches wide), anyways it worked out where Stihl replaced the parts, but I get to pay for the labor, except the Stihl certified mechanic working on fixing it has broken 2 pistons and is waiting to hear back from Stihl about what the heck is going on (this has been going on for 7 months, since February).

So, yesterday I finally had enough waiting, and purchased a ms661. So to make a long story short, to say that I would like to AVOID a repeat of the ms391 problem(s) is putting it lightly.

So I am intending to follow:


But am quite curious about:


So.... beyond what BLIS said, any other suggestions, and what is up with soaking the chains? I get the feeling that this is just a joke that I am not comprehending. ...?


Oh yah, my intention is to be cutting harder stuff as in the Hardest wood native to North America, Osage Orange (Bodock/Bois d'arc); as well as some oak and maple.

That's quite a long first post. Welcome to the Chainsaw forum of AS, aka the loony bin.

Yup, opinions differ on break in. I am definitely in the "use it" camp as opposed to the multiple start-up,idle,shut-down routine. A saw runs at full throttle, so there isn't much you can do about variable throttle, but you can adjust the load by how big the tree, how hard the wood. Your milling experience on the ms391 is indicative of "heavy" load. Don't do that. But for a 661 you're in a whole new league. Cut anything up to 32" across (how big is your bar?).

Soak the chains just because the joke is Stihl saws are stingy oilers. Really it won't help anything soaking them.

 

[quotejso2]

well geta husky next time

 

[Derf]

Also, regarding your blown up saw... A 65cc saw usually sports a 20" bar. They are fine to cut up to 24" if the oiler will output that much, but they are at the end of their power there. Milling an 18"-20" log is really putting a strain on the motor. Don't mill with little saws. Glad you got the 661 if you plan to do milling work.

 

[Michaelmj11]

That's quite a long first post. Welcome to the Chainsaw forum of AS, aka the loony bin.

Yup, opinions differ on break in. I am definitely in the "use it" camp as opposed to the multiple start-up,idle,shut-down routine. A saw runs at full throttle, so there isn't much you can do about variable throttle, but you can adjust the load by how big the tree, how hard the wood. Your milling experience on the ms391 is indicative of "heavy" load. Don't do that. But for a 661 you're in a whole new league. Cut anything up to 32" across (how big is your bar?).

Soak the chains just because the joke is Stihl saws are stingy oilers. Really it won't help anything soaking them.

I got a 36" on the 661 but have every intention of just selling the powerhead from the 391 and keeping the 20" and 4 chains from it.

 

[Michaelmj11]

Also, regarding your blown up saw... A 65cc saw usually sports a 20" bar. They are fine to cut up to 24" if the oiler will output that much, but they are at the end of their power there. Milling an 18"-20" log is really putting a strain on the motor. Don't mill with little saws. Glad you got the 661 if you plan to do milling work.

Yep, live and learn

 

[Derf]

If you keep a 20" on it you should step it up from a 7-pin sprocket to an 8-pin.

 

[HarleyT]

Actually back then there were a couple of nuts that soaked their new chains prior to using, or at least said so.

 

[Michaelmj11]

If you keep a 20" on it you should step it up from a 7-pin sprocket to an 8-pin.

I had noticed that, and was going to ask the Shop guys this, but would the 8 pin work for both 20" and 36", and if not, IS there a sprocket that would work for both?

 

[Derf]

Use a 7-tooth on the 36, and an 8-tooth on the 20. The 7 will give you more torque for big wood, the 8 more speed through small wood when you don't need the torque. No, no common sprocket, but they are only like $3

Also, pick up a spare c-clip in case you lose the one holding the sprocket on changing it.

 

[quotejso2]

I had noticed that, and was going to ask the Shop guys this, but would the 8 pin work for both 20" and 36", and if not, IS there a sprocket that would work for both?

just leave the one you got it will be fine like he said people are cuckoo on here

 

[Michaelmj11]

well geta husky next time

In my first post I neglected to mention the Husky I have (or what is left of it after my dad melted it while cutting a 6" pine tree....) granted it is a smaller Husky but still.... it ..... melted.... the ms170 can go through 6" Osage Orange, the chain isn't happy about it, but it will get the job done.

 

[Kristiano]

Husq manual:
Running-in
Avoid running at a too high speed for extended periods
during the first 10 hours.

Checking chain lubrication • Check the chain lubrication each time you refuel.
Aim the tip of the bar at a light coloured surface about 20 cm (8 inches) away. After 1 minute running at 3/4 throttle you should see a distinct line of oil on the light surface.

Engine (autotune) adjustment
The following steps should be taken when the chain saw
is started for the first time or when outside circumstances
change (fuel, altitude, air filter etc.): Start the engine.
Accelerate the engine to full throttle and saw a number of
cuts in a thick log (3-5 min.).
The chain saw must be run (8,000 - 12,000 rpm) the entire
time so that the carburettor can adjust itself.

Mixing ratio
1:50 (2%) with HUSQVARNA two-stroke oil.
1:33 (3%) with oils class JASO FB or ISO EGB formulated
for air-cooled, two-stroke engines.


So i understood from these sentences i should run in new Husq 555 using maybe little richer oil mixture, avoiding too high revs for 10 hour and trough all this break in period being extra careful about using sharp, well oiled, regulated chain; but still using it for normal work as to adjust the autotune carb. For this i will work with avarage - small size logs and avoiding revving the saw without load.

 

[blsnelling]

Tune it a couple hundred RPMs rich and GO CUT WOOD!

 

[mark2496]

Having only had three brand new saws in my life I've never even thought about a break in period, just ran them like a saw. The 25 year old 026 still runs but it doesn't see alot of use, my 19 year old 257 still runs good and gets used quite a bit. Time will tell with the month old 562xp.