Best way to edge individual live edge boards on one side.

[Rosss]

Milling some salvaged cedar resulting in boards that are 6-12 inches wide where the customer wants the edge removed on one side. They are cut 2 inches thick. The side that is removed is likely to be the hidden side when the board is used for a shelf, but it seems to make sense to leave as nice of a surface as possible in case someone wants that side visible.
The logs are small so I don't think I want to square one side and then mill, but I guess I could try that on a bigger one and see how it works out.

I have a bunch to do.

I have a beam buddy, a table saw, a circular saw

What have you done that worked well? What did you use, how did you do it?

I am thinking some kind of jig with the beam buddy and a maybe trying out the electric chainsaw so I can do them at my house instead of having to do them somewhere else with a gas one. That said I haven't actually cut anything with the electric chainsaw yet... but it does advertise 4 peak hp and full wrap handle

 

[jnance]

Use a chalk line to mark the straight line. Then I have used tablesaw,jigsaw,bandsaw, Circular saw. To follow the line all have worked well. at 2” thick a circular saw with a decent blade should work well.


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[Bmac]

Second that, I would use a circular saw. Attach a straight edge to each slab and use that to guide your cut. Not much different than using an electric chainsaw and a beam buddy, but I think will give you a better finish cut.

Below are pictures of a technique I use a lot when the wood is still in log form. I understand the below technique won't work for you since you already have the wood cut into slabs, but the technique could work if you know you need a straight edge prior to breaking a log down.



In the photo you can see the logosol attachment on one of my 660s. I use this a lot and it makes this process of developing a straight square edge very easy. Since I'm more into producing lumber for use in my workshop, it really helps me to have one straight edge when breaking down the wood for my personal use. I don't really do slab furniture much, but I do have logs I slab, esp one's with crotch wood.

Here is a link to the product, it's the most basic logosol setup and it's priced reasonably. You'll likely want to have an extra saw (can probably get away with using a smaller saw and shorter bar) so you don't have to constantly switch out from this to you Alaskan mill.
http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ll-System/Logosol-Timberjig-Chainsaw-Mill.axd

You'll need to build a jig/guiderail system to develop the above cut. This jig is simple to build and is built out of wood. Directions are included with the logosol attachment. The jig is screwed to the flat surface developed by your first cut with your Alaskan mill and cuts at a 90 degree angle to the first cut. I currently don't have a photo of the jig in use but would be happy to get a photo and show you if you want me to.

Another really nice feature of that attachment is that after I develop the 2 flat surfaces at 90 degree angle to each other I can use the logosol to slab off any thickness of lumber I set the thickness guide to. I find myself using this a lot once I have the right angles because it's lighter and has a shorter bar.

 

[BobL]

My setup. Its really designed to cut beams but it cuts the lives edges of slabs really quick.
Saw is 441 with 25" Lopro Blade/chain.
On some straight longs I have sometimes stacked up 4/5 slabs on top of each other and cut the live edges off in one pass.



Its a mono rail mill I made in 2009.
It can do a lot of things like this mid- log cut.

 

[Rosss]

My setup. Its really designed to cut beams but it cuts the lives edges of slabs really quick.
Saw is 441 with 25" Lopro Blade/chain.
On some straight longs I have sometimes stacked up 4/5 slabs on top of each other and cut the live edges off in one pass.
View attachment 651369
View attachment 651371
View attachment 651370
Its a mono rail mill I made in 2009.
It can do a lot of things like this mid- log cut.
View attachment 651372

View attachment 651373

View attachment 651374

View attachment 651375

That is so cool!!

 

[Rosss]

Second that, I would use a circular saw. Attach a straight edge to each slab and use that to guide your cut. Not much different than using an electric chainsaw and a beam buddy, but I think will give you a better finish cut.

Below are pictures of a technique I use a lot when the wood is still in log form. I understand the below technique won't work for you since you already have the wood cut into slabs, but the technique could work if you know you need a straight edge prior to breaking a log down.

View attachment 651325 View attachment 651328

In the photo you can see the logosol attachment on one of my 660s. I use this a lot and it makes this process of developing a straight square edge very easy. Since I'm more into producing lumber for use in my workshop, it really helps me to have one straight edge when breaking down the wood for my personal use. I don't really do slab furniture much, but I do have logs I slab, esp one's with crotch wood.

Here is a link to the product, it's the most basic logosol setup and it's priced reasonably. You'll likely want to have an extra saw (can probably get away with using a smaller saw and shorter bar) so you don't have to constantly switch out from this to you Alaskan mill.
http://www.baileysonline.com/Forest...ll-System/Logosol-Timberjig-Chainsaw-Mill.axd

You'll need to build a jig/guiderail system to develop the above cut. This jig is simple to build and is built out of wood. Directions are included with the logosol attachment. The jig is screwed to the flat surface developed by your first cut with your Alaskan mill and cuts at a 90 degree angle to the first cut. I currently don't have a photo of the jig in use but would be happy to get a photo and show you if you want me to.

Another really nice feature of that attachment is that after I develop the 2 flat surfaces at 90 degree angle to each other I can use the logosol to slab off any thickness of lumber I set the thickness guide to. I find myself using this a lot once I have the right angles because it's lighter and has a shorter bar.

Thank you for writing this out. I looked at the video at the link you included.
The beam buddy is somewhat similar but likely has more deviance in it's results.