Yeah, the mount won't work, it looks like. Thanks for pointing that out, FrannyK and Westboastfaller.
I should be starting and finishing at the bottom of your post but I'll play along.
I've filed out my bars between my 266 & 262 to fit the adjustes back in the day when I with tree thinning. You do what you do in a pinch to make a days pay or have down time for the rest of the day.
I believe I could still get oil to drip down with the wide mount on the 262 but to the side of the chain.
Oilers won't line up but you could put the oil on manually or a journal to line them up I would imagine.
It's all possible.
I don't think its a reduced weigh bar? You said "light duty bar" ??
If it's not then that will give you a lot of extended weight.
On smaller saws,your leverage distance to the pivot is shorter.
In layman's terms. Your hand grips are closer together making it feel more out of balance due to the extra down force needed to level each time. The downward force becomes 'saw weight' as it now transfers to the front hand. Not the end of the world. I did it for years with a ported 372's. Stick the tree with the dogs high up in cases and drag it down if needed and then set level.
People think the 460 cannot run a 24" even, but I seem to have used it with some success.
That's up to the filer . A 24" full house also has the same amount of cutter as a 36" skip.
Round chisel in this case needs to be angled up into the corner and not so deep into the gulet (less hook) I like to keep an assortments of file sizes for different purposes. 1/4 file will help reduce hook. Also pick a chain with a higher factory raker setting.
Since your saw is under powered and you're no surgeon then I would be thinking about strapping any tree with barber chair potential.
Seems like "half of the time" I get a performance degrade somewhere within these big cuts that leaves it going sideways. IE, makes a 2 sided cut pretty awful for the operator and pretty hard on the saw. I end up having to stop and switch chains and restart the cut in the middle of the log or something dumb like that.
The more the teeth in the cut, the more aggressive the hook, the flatter the file across the cutting edge, the lower the rakers, the less forgiving.
Slow speeds will allow it to cut with out resistance to the off angle. Centripetal force from high speed will surge it and may stop it.
The dogs will stop the cutting if one side is bad enough.
You are trying to overcome two problems with one thing. A new longer bar and new chain is a temporary fix. Get a few new chains and pay for your chains to be maintained. Use your dogs. If your chain is running off then the dogs will hold it straight and you will get a binding affect. Stop right away and swap chains and drop one off to be filed.
That's a fix for both.
Seriously man, you don't need a longer bar. I would suggest a new bar, chain and sprocket & rehab or get your chains done for you and pick up some bar maintained and theory. You are trying to put the cart before the horse.
I think Philbert has a class on right now. He has a respectable understanding. Perhaps you should do some digging and reading if your are serious about results.
Might try to make a full skip chain for the 24" out of an older chain with a bad tooth or two. Maybe I'll be impressed?
The easiest thing to change is the way we think.
'You' start with shït you end with shït. True goods!
Pull up your game and I'll be happy to help with the rest.
