Bike saw talk

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
These are various different bikesaws (five different saws to be exact), but a pic is worth a thousand words they say.
IM001080.jpg

IM001079.jpg

Jay2.jpg

Jay1.jpg

IM000112.jpg

IM000112.jpg

Jay7.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks Romeo
Those are the kind of pictures I was looking for too.

You guys ROCK!

Would it be alright to put a full size clutch cover on it, and maybe somethan like a chain catcher? For safety reasons, dont really plan on racin it, just a GTG saw.

No Airfilters either, I wasnt expecting that
 
This pic Romeo posted shows a chain catcher. As long as the chain loop stays in one piece it'll stay with the saw. and hopefully not wrap around your wrist. I run an air filter, I've had my shirt sucked into the carb during a run.

attachment.php
 
Ahh, thanks for clearin that one up for me troutfisher. Seen that, but wasnt exactly sure what it was

That one picture shows a chain adjuster right? that would just be a setup like a regular saw right? Just a threaded rod/screw, with the part that sticks into the bar
 
This pic Romeo posted shows a chain catcher. As long as the chain loop stays in one piece it'll stay with the saw. and hopefully not wrap around your wrist. I run an air filter, I've had my shirt sucked into the carb during a run.

attachment.php
Also, if you look under the rear of the bar on the chassis in this pic, there is a grade 8 9/16" bolt running through and sticking out a few inches, that is to save your nutz, when chains derail they go down and back. Then a good strong chain guard on the top of course.
th_JB016.jpg
 
Ahh, thanks for clearin that one up for me troutfisher. Seen that, but wasnt exactly sure what it was

That one picture shows a chain adjuster right? that would just be a setup like a regular saw right? Just a threaded rod/screw, with the part that sticks into the bar

Just like a saw uses, but its in the outside cover instead of the inside.
 
Thanks again Romeo, guess Ill be studying the pictures and runnin some plans through my head.

You guys are not helping with the CAD though. :D
 
yuo guys are really bad for my health... so anyone have a cr,kx,yz,rm,250 layin around that needs to be minus a motor....
 
I checked at a couple local bike shops and told them what I wanted. It took a couple months, and a kid brought in a bike with a spent tranny....I bought the whole thing for $200. I got the Blaster for free, and I paid $275 for the RM250 blown up and wrecked. They're out there.
 
A bad transmission, trashed clutch, or a busted chain that chunked a hole in the case are my favorite finds. For most folks, when those areas are damaged, the bikes are left for dead.

I always try to go for complete bikes and save your self from spending vast amounts of money and time hunting the parts. I have done hem both ways and I much prefer a complete bike. You can also sell the rest of the bike off on junk bay to offset your build, you might even make a few bucks.

What you need from the bike is the power head (jug, head, crank, primary gear and bolt, rod, piston, lower end case halves, and of course -- seals, bearings, rings, gaskets, etc.) You need the electrical (flywheel, stator, cdi box, coil, kill switch, and the harness so you know where to wire your own), and the pipe, reed valve, reed cage, throttle cable, and carb. I even save all of the bolts. You might not use allot of it, but if you need to, then you will have it.
 
I might have a line on a '98 KTM 250cc motocross bike, any advantage/ disadvantages of using a euro engine over a japanese one?
 
I might have a line on a '98 KTM 250cc motocross bike, any advantage/ disadvantages of using a euro engine over a japanese one?

I am doing an 07 KTM 300 right now. I started building it in 07, I haven't been in a hurry to finish it since this one is for ME.

The only real problem with using KTM's is that the early ones (80's) had the ignition on the wrong side which would have made it tough to make a good bikesaw. A 98 will have the ignition on the left which will work fine, I think 93 and up all have the left side ign.

The right seal rides on the primary gear instead of the crankshaft like a honda CR250 does so you do need it. I like how the reeds cage feeds directly into the crankcase on the KTM instead of the cylinder head, it makes the package more compact for a saw, and makes it easy to pull the jug.

It should make a great saw.
 
I'm really interested in doing a RM 125 build up, you guys do anything fancy to the motors themselves or leave them fairly stock as to output? Also you are machining your drive rims I assume that there isn't a supplier for that type of part, or are you using a drive rim off of a harvester etc.?
 
Back
Top