Blaze King Classic Woodstoves

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Rich L

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I read that these stoves work well in the frigid temperatures of Alaska.Does anyone have any concrete experience with these stoves and how they perform in below zero situations ? I'm looking for a stove that can heat well a cold and drafty 2000 sq ft home.But I can't afford a wild goose chase.
 
AH typical human being.

Trying to find the cheapest way to heat the outdoors.
I would suggest tightening the envelope a bit.replace drafty doors and single pane windows.
Now for the wood burner. You know already that you need a lot of btus. therefore you should be looking for an airtight unit with a secondary burn setup. and a Humongous firebox.
 
I read that these stoves work well in the frigid temperatures of Alaska.Does anyone have any concrete experience with these stoves and how they perform in below zero situations ? I'm looking for a stove that can heat well a cold and drafty 2000 sq ft home.But I can't afford a wild goose chase.

I have one out in my garage at the house that I dont use anymore but never had in a house.

I used it to heat a big office in a drafty old welding shop about 950 sq ft (the office anyay) and you had to leave the doors open.

If its better than any other stove I cant say, but I seem to remember it being over a hundred thousand btu's does that sound right? If that is so it would be more than adequate imo especially with one of those chiminey heat reclaimer fans.

Kansas
 
I second that about getting the house airtight. It makes a huge huge difference just adding that plastic on the windows in the winter. I heat 2400 sq/ft with a jotul firelight and it can be difficult at times when it gets down below zero to keep the place comfortable. The house was built in 91 and well insulated, we have a lot of windows though and they aren't the greatest so I really benefit from plastic in the winter.

As far as the blaze king, I wish I could help. The most I know about it was what I saw last year at the stove shop where the lady was trying to sell me one. It sounded impressive :)
 
you need to also visit **********... AS and ********** are the two best places to visit on the www for wood burning info
 
I read that these stoves work well in the frigid temperatures of Alaska.Does anyone have any concrete experience with these stoves and how they perform in below zero situations ? I'm looking for a stove that can heat well a cold and drafty 2000 sq ft home.But I can't afford a wild goose chase.

Go the ********** and lookup these 2 users:

North of 60 ( lives in Yukon Territory)
Wolfkiller (lives in North Pole, Alaska

Wolfkiller has this thread complaining (tongue in cheek) that his oil boiler kicked on at -44F).

They are not the prettiest stoves, but I bet they look gorgeous when the house is 70 and it's -30 outside.
 
I have an older Blaze King, pre epa, I believe it was built in the 80s. I burn cottonwood and pine in it. I WILL make an incredible amount of heat, I have a heat reclaimer on the pipe. The down side, You better get to cutting, The ginormous firebox is always hungry if you do not keep her dampered down. I heat my detail shop with it, I keep the shop about 80-ish no problem. I repeat it WILL make a lot of heat.
 
Thanks for all the input.I will insulate this old castle and I'll check the Hearth site.I think this stove has a 4 cu.ft. firebox which is huge and it's advertised as being able to burn or produce heat for 40 hours.That claim sounds ridiculous.I don't know of any wood that can burn that long once flaming.However the Alaskans speak highly of the stove.I mean if it truly works for them how can I go wrong in Massachusetts.Then again it's hard to know if the info given is truthful.I need more feed back before I take the risk of shelling out $3500.00 for something that may be a bust.
 
Blaze King

I have the Blaze King Princess Ultra (house is about 1500 sq. ft.) and couldn't be happier with it. The owner of the company that installed it for me said that he was having a hard time getting the Blaze King stoves due to high demand. This was about 3 years ago and he was going to try and get a different brand stove to sell so he could meet demand. He looked around at the different possibilities and ended up staying with Blaze King. He has been doing this for 20 to 30 years now and told me that he just wouldn't sacrifice quality to sell more quantity. People around here love their Blaze Kings.
 
Thanks for all the input.I will insulate this old castle and I'll check the Hearth site.I think this stove has a 4 cu.ft. firebox which is huge and it's advertised as being able to burn or produce heat for 40 hours.That claim sounds ridiculous.I don't know of any wood that can burn that long once flaming.However the Alaskans speak highly of the stove.I mean if it truly works for them how can I go wrong in Massachusetts.Then again it's hard to know if the info given is truthful.I need more feed back before I take the risk of shelling out $3500.00 for something that may be a bust.

40 hours is most likely not possible. One of the members I listed above does get 14 hour burns with the Blaze King Princess Cat stove burning pine as that is the wood he can get easily.
 
I had to help move one of those once. HEAVY! Was an older one with a big 8" flue outlet and a bimetallic damper control. Also had a cavernous firebox. I could easily see this stove roasting you out of a house.
 
Blaze king ultra

Amazing stove, gone 14 hours a day at work and wen i get home my 3200 sq ft house is still77 deg. It will go at least 16-18 hrs and still be on the cat. with soft maple and have 8" of coles in the bottem. Had a XL dutchwest before, that stove was a piece of garbage compared to a blaze king.
 
Amazing stove, gone 14 hours a day at work and wen i get home my 3200 sq ft house is still77 deg. It will go at least 16-18 hrs and still be on the cat. with soft maple and have 8" of coles in the bottem. Had a XL dutchwest before, that stove was a piece of garbage compared to a blaze king.
Ya,you folks have me leaning very heavily in the direction of getting that Blaze King.Wild Bill how many times have you replaced the Cat. if at all ? If so what did it cost ? Man your burn times are out of sight.Is your house well insulated or not ? What type of outside temps are you dealing with ?
 
I've had a Blaze King "King" model in the basement heating my 2,000 sq. ft. home with 1.5 levels above it. We just went through a cold spell of steady -4 F / -20C for highs to -35 F / -37 C for highs and lows for nearly 3 weeks and despite all my large windows, the stove heated the place very well. My house is quite air tight otherwise, though still not 100% finished, still needing siding on 2 sides.

I only ever use the "Normal" #2-3 temperature setting on these coldest days, or otherwise it would just pump out too much heat. Normally I have it set on 1 +/- so long as the catalytic converter is in mid to mid high range, as I want the stove to burn as clean as possible. If I burned it on Normal during the normal winter days, the house would be too hot and I'd not get the longer burn times. Normally I put in 2-3 halfs or 8+" rounds of lodgepole pine at 8 am and then again before bed at 9:30 pm and it's rarely ever completely burned up and the converter is always active. I rarely ever completely fill my stove vs. just partially filling it twice every 24 hrs.

40 hr. burn times with a completely stuffed firebox could be possible in perfect conditions on a low heat output but heating for what size of space? I regularily fill mine up and go away for 2-3 days and still have coals and a warm house for the cat when I get back, but of course not on these coldest days. On the coldest days, I burned about 25% more birch than a 15 F / -10C average day, and for those warmer temps I usually just burn pine and I save the birch for the coldest days.

It will certainly pump out the heat with long burn times, especially if completely loaded. I easily get 12-14 hr burn times on the not too cold days and only partially filled. It is also supposed to burn very clean with the catalytic converter active, and that is as important to me as the heat and the volume. I only ever see blue smoke coming out on initial starting and never once the converter gets to be active. The converters aren't that much in cost once every few years (I'm on winter #3) and for me it's a worthwhile investment for less air pollution. I wish everyone in the valley used them as otherwise the valley gets choked with a layer of thick blue smoke from all those old, non EPA stoves, and the growing number of outdoor burners.

Compared to my previous and older RSF that came with this place and I used only one long cool winter, I burn so much less wood and get much more heat and cleaner burning, and minimal creosote, with a thermostat that works really well, that there is no comparison. So I'm a happy user, burning 24/7 through about 1.5-2 cords from early October through April.

It was expensive, but worth it, especially compared to every other stove that I see at other peoples places. It certainly won't be a bust for you. I don't know how it compares to other newer models out there. It is well made and very heavy gauge. I also cook on it and not just reheating meals, so that cuts down my propane stove use in winter to nearly nothing.
 
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Rich L

I think you will be happy, ma. and in. temps close. my dutchwest cat lasted 9 years. 5 tailgate down heaping truckloads to heat a well insulated ranch with walkout basement. Stove in basement. Gravity heat. Had a longer responce but my slow typeing got me booted off.
 
I've had a Blaze King "King" model in the basement heating my 2,000 sq. ft. home with 1.5 levels above it. We just went through a cold spell of steady -4 F / -20C for highs to -35 F / -37 C for highs and lows for nearly 3 weeks and despite all my large windows, the stove heated the place very well. My house is quite air tight otherwise, though still not 100% finished, still needing siding on 2 sides.

I only ever use the "Normal" #2-3 temperature setting on these coldest days, or otherwise it would just pump out too much heat. Normally I have it set on 1 +/- so long as the catalytic converter is in mid to mid high range, as I want the stove to burn as clean as possible. If I burned it on Normal during the normal winter days, the house would be too hot and I'd not get the longer burn times. Normally I put in 2-3 halfs or 8+" rounds of lodgepole pine at 8 am and then again before bed at 9:30 pm and it's rarely ever completely burned up and the converter is always active. I rarely ever completely fill my stove vs. just partially filling it twice every 24 hrs.

40 hr. burn times with a completely stuffed firebox could be possible in perfect conditions on a low heat output but heating for what size of space? I regularily fill mine up and go away for 2-3 days and still have coals and a warm house for the cat when I get back, but of course not on these coldest days. On the coldest days, I burned about 25% more birch than a 15 F / -10C average day, and for those warmer temps I usually just burn pine and I save the birch for the coldest days.

It will certainly pump out the heat with long burn times, especially if completely loaded. I easily get 12-14 hr burn times on the not too cold days and only partially filled. It is also supposed to burn very clean with the catalytic converter active, and that is as important to me as the heat and the volume. I only ever see blue smoke coming out on initial starting and never once the converter gets to be active. The converters aren't that much in cost once every few years (I'm on winter #3) and for me it's a worthwhile investment for less air pollution. I wish everyone in the valley used them as otherwise the valley gets choked with a layer of thick blue smoke from all those old, non EPA stoves, and the growing number of outdoor burners.

Compared to my previous and older RSF that came with this place and I used only one long cool winter, I burn so much less wood and get much more heat and cleaner burning, and minimal creosote, with a thermostat that works really well, that there is no comparison. So I'm a happy user, burning 24/7 through about 1.5-2 cords from early October through April.

It was expensive, but worth it, especially compared to every other stove that I see at other peoples places. It certainly won't be a bust for you. I don't know how it compares to other newer models out there. It is well made and very heavy gauge. I also cook on it and not just reheating meals, so that cuts down my propane stove use in winter to nearly nothing.
Hey Chip,thanks for the update.It sounds like the Blaze King is the champion of woodstoves.Even the giant new Hearthstone stoves don't receive the approvals that the Blaze King receives.I don't think any of the Hearthstone owners that I've heard from live in temps equaling the temps that the Blaze King owners that I've heard from live in.The difference is the Hearthstone owners aren't nearly as happy with their stoves in cooler climates where the Blaze Kings are heating in colder climates with more success.How difficult is the Cat.maintenance?Do you use an outside air kit in your well insulated home?
 
Rich,
I too have become very intrigued with the King Classic. In fact, I called a couple dealers yesterday morning to get some ideas on pricing.

Sadly, it appears they somewhat recently must have significantly increased the price on them (possibly because the price run-up on steel and transportation costs this past summer). I talked to a couple of guys who bought this stove, or were quoted prices, and I was told under $2k for this stove within the last year or so, but the lowest price I heard yesterday was around $3100. Although, keep in mind I only contacted two dealers, one in CT and one in MA, and I didn't push them on the price.

I'm not saying this stove isn't worth $3k+, but that's a hard pill to swallow for a steel stove when you can buy something like an 30-NC for around $600 this time of year at the big box stores. Apples to oranges yes, but you can't begin to convince me the BK costs anywhere near $2500 more to manufacturer!

Anyway, while I certainly don't 'need' a BK Classic, I still want one. The idea of once a day reloads and all the heat I'd ever want rapped up into one stove more or less has me sold. It's ugly, but that doesn't really matter to me because it would be going in my finished basement.

Since I'm in no hurry (other than the burning desire to get one), I think I'm going to wait a while for demand to cool down a little. I suspect with the economy in the toilet, raw material and transportation costs significantly reduced, and hitting the dealers during off season, I'm hope to find a much more reasonable deal on one of these stoves. If I can find another person or two (hint, hint) to sweeten the pot, that might help as well. But knowing guys were buying this same stove six months ago for $1900 has me believing paying $3,100 for one today is just way too much.

If you do some more searching and come across a seller that's willing to sell these at a more reasonable price, please let me know.
 
I think what the Wet1 thinks....for 3k they can shove those stoves where the sun don't shine.

We have a huge civil war era farm house and the QF4300 does an adequate job with heat but I want a stove with reserve fire power. Something with 3.5cf fire box.

So with this cratering economy and reduced fuel prices I'm thinking the prices of stoves will come down to.
 
I've seen the Princess Model and King for sale used periodically, such as on Craig's List, but sadly not when I was looking. Hopefully the price will come down with the price of steel. I also think that if you buy in the spring, you might be able to deal better than now when everyone needs one.

The manual states no cat converter maintenace when the stove is burned hot and the cat in the active range. Once a year you can brush it off but they don't recommend anything more rough than that. My dealer said to do nothing to it until it seems to stop heating up, maybe once every 5 years or so. I've read of various things on the internet re: maintenance, but so far I'm trusting the manual.

I don't use a fresh air kit. I've read pros and cons to using or requiring it. I've read that if your house is that super sealed, then you might end up with problems from trapped vapour vs. using up all your air, or lose efficiency from heating warm air. If you go in and out of the house at all, that often is enough to provide some fresh air, or crack a window a touch if you're worried about it. I have two fresh air intakes into the basement but neither was intended precisely for the woodstove and neither feeds it directly. Both are in the basement where the woodstove sits. One is a 6" wide fresh air hose and sink intended to provide air for my wall mounted back up propane heater that I never use and have blocked it off since I put in the second air intake. I only ever use the propane heater as a backup for when I go away for a week or more in winter. The second air intake is the cat door, which leaks just enough to provide air when there is a draw. However during the coldest days, I cover that over with 4" of foam and duct tape to seal any leaks. I guess a 3rd air intake could be the slight bit of air that comes in from around my 2 year old basement metal door, which sadly had a cracked frame when I bought it but didn't see until I installed it and so the door is not sitting perfectly square inside the frame, but it's darned close but leaks a tiny bit.

I don't think that my house is super air tight anyway, at least not yet. I would like to improve the warm air and cool air gravity circulation. The main living room is my biggest problem due to the large and very old double pain windows that are basically R1 or R2 for insulation. It's an expensive fix and really is only noticeable during the -30 C days if you stand next to them.

I also live off grid and far from a town and filling my propane tank this summer (bad timing as the price halved 2 months later) is expensive. While another woodstove might be less expensive up front, I wasn't confident that others were less expensive to actually use or to fill with wood. I would not want to have to cut and hand split even more wood than I already do and I see it becomes more difficult as each year passes, now in my mid 50's and still in good health. I can't imagine even cutting double the cords of wood that I do now. My research had me figure that I'd want to pay now for a more efficient stove, than to pay later in labour or injury from cutting more wood. So far, my decision has proven me right, as I use much less wood than neighbours do in the same climate and much less than my old RSF stove did and in return, I'm getting more heat out of less wood and the bonus is, less pollution. Fortunately for me, I had the money, though barely to buy the stove. If I had to do it now, it would be a very difficult purchase, but I'd still do it. It is hard to wade through all the manufacturers advertising and efficiency hype, but I did find many users happy with the Cat version of the Blaze King and the Mfg tests seemed to be backed up by an independant lab, and my experience with it has been very good, so again I'm happy with my decision. I did A LOT of research and try to save money absolutely wherever I can, its even a sport for me. So spending extra on the Blaze King was not something that was a frivolous decision for me. And with out long term real world experience with other stoves, it's REALLY tough to make an absolute decision without taking some chance. I felt that in the end, I'd take a chance with the Blaze King more than I would with any other manufacturer.

Also, if our winter wasn't as long or as cold for weeks at a time as it can be, I'd have opted for the smaller Princess model and saved a few bucks, as the King is a touch too big for my place when the winter temps are normal and if I didn't have the one large wall full of windows. Hope this helps.
 
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