Boring or Plunge Cutting with Full Skip Full Chisel. Is it not possible or not done.

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BigDaddyR

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As the title says I have a question about doing a bore/plunge cut with full chisel full skip chain. I was using my new b/c this weekend and went to check the big red oak I was going to fell for rot. Tried to do a vertical boring cut and had no luck. I've done the cut before but it was with a full comp chain on a 20" bar and horizontal for felling purposes. Also have done it with the same set up vertical to practice the cut.

Tried it with the new b/c 28" Techlite with full chisel full skip chain and I can say for sure that my inertia chain brake works great. Only time I've ever tripped it on a saw. Started the cut full throttle on the bottom of the bar and would start to turn it once it started to cut and it would start to buck. Of course I had a very stiff hold on it. Could not get it to work. I have since adjusted the saw leaner. Could it be it wasn't turning enough RPM's when I tried it or is it not a good idea to try this cut with a skip chain setup?

Thanks for your input.
 
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This isn't the response you're looking for, but a 372xt doesn't really need a skip chain on a 28" bar IMO. That may help out in the future but not with this chain.
 
did you enter or begin the cut on a 45 degree angle instead of using the actual front part of the bar nose?? A plunge cut can certainly be done with skip chain.
 
did you enter or begin the cut on a 45 degree angle instead of using the actual front part of the bar nose?? A plunge cut can certainly be done with skip chain.

Yes I did which is why I wondered if I wasn't turning enough RPM's at the time. Later that day I did over time lean out the mixture to 1 whole turn of the H screw. Not sure how many RPMS that works out to? Would that make a difference?

Also opinions on how well this set up would take a full comp chain are appreciated.
 
This isn't the response you're looking for, but a 372xt doesn't really need a skip chain on a 28" bar IMO. That may help out in the future but not with this chain.

This is helpful. The dealer seemed to think full skip would be helpful with this setup and being new to running larger bar/chains took his advice.
 
Longer bar and skip chain will be a rougher set up than what you were using, probably going to be a learning curve until you get the feel for it.
 
Once you get the bar in the wood a few inches, twist the saw a little in one direction. This will take some of the chatter out.
 
Full skip will take a little more getting used to than full comp or semi skip. The deeper you can get it started before bring the whole bar up where the top is hitting the easier it will be.
 
You are either WAY lean or it was sooo rich to start with. There is no reason to go 1 full turn anytime if it was tuned properly to start with.

I believe it was tuned way to rich by the dealer, he said he lift it a little rich on purpose. I don't think he was used to tuning with a MModded saw. It was 4 stroking in the wood when I started. Tweaked 1/4 turn until it was running good in the cut and just 4 stroking a little bit being pulled out of the cut.

Full skip will take a little more getting used to than full comp or semi skip. The deeper you can get it started before bring the whole bar up where the top is hitting the easier it will be.

Thanks for the help on this. I wasn't getting it too deep before trying to start turning the bar.

I have one opinion above that full skip is not needed on this setup and that full comp would run fine? Your thoughts?
 
I run full comp or semi skip up to 42". I'll run a full skip if it came to me in a deal but I won't buy it normally. My 28" and 32" .063" bars are semi skip and the other 32" is full comp. I don't mind sharpening so I like the smoother cutting chain. There's only 5 more cutters on a full comp 93 dl compared to a 84 dl full comp. Not a big difference in the 24/5" to 28" jump.
 
Yes it can be down. It was stated earlier after you get in a ways. A slight twist on the bar takes some of the chatter out.

Okay so when you say a slight twist are you meaning to the side. Doing a vertical cut with the bar in a ways a slight twist of the saw to the left or right when turning the bar in?
 
I run full comp or semi skip up to 42". I'll run a full skip if it came to me in a deal but I won't buy it normally. My 28" and 32" .063" bars are semi skip and the other 32" is full comp. I don't mind sharpening so I like the smoother cutting chain. There's only 5 more cutters on a full comp 93 dl compared to a 84 dl full comp. Not a big difference in the 24/5" to 28" jump.

I see what you're saying. I wonder if my dealer needed to sell some full skip. LOL. It runs pretty smooth in smaller limbs, 8-18" and then does get a little bit bumpy in the larger sections. I guess I'll have to see if I can get a deal on a full comp chain 94 dl to compare.
 
One more thing to try, is make sure the depth gauges are set at the proper height and rounded. Flat depth gauges will make the chain really jumpy when boring.
 
One more thing to try, is make sure the depth gauges are set at the proper height and rounded. Flat depth gauges will make the chain really jumpy when boring.

Good point. This was a new chain and haven't filed the gauges yet. Sounds to me like I wasn't cutting in deep enough before starting to turn the bar into the bore cut. A little different with this setup.
 
The only time I've ever had trouble bore cutting with skip full chisel is when I've dropped the rakers too far. Even in Australian hardwoods I've bore cut fine on bars up to 36" with full chisel skip (Carlton A3LM Skip).
Slow chain speed certainly makes things more difficult however I doubt that a 372 would struggle.
The only problem I can think of with new out of the box chain is improper technique.
 
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