Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about

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I can't wait to see how my "new" 5020 cuts- sure does start easy and idle well.

I did see the minor flaw in the air filter thoiugh, how it let's just a little gunk past it- I need to figure a way to stop that while still being removable/ serviceable.

Sounds like I may have to just tweak the "H" setting on the carb a wee bit, @ WOT it ever so slightly misbehaves- I want to cut with it first though and see how it does in wood.
 
I tore into the 5016 some yesterday and my air filter was perfect fit, nothing getting by. I have heard of others having loose fitting AF though. My AF fit was tight just like I like them. ;)

Maybe grease the AF mounting area if so.
 
rms61moparman said:
I thought you were going to do some comparison videos or something???


Mike
Click to expand...

Did. posted in another thread. ;)

Just got video of 5020 and 545. The 5020 was way fat for break in and the 545 was loading up when first started and 1st cut. Poor video too, used old cam on poor az setting.


I had a bearing in mind the same night I put the 325 echo drum on the 5020.

Well I confirmed it with calibers and ordered one. I will be putting a poulan 3000 3300 etc clutch drum with rims or spur in 325 on a 5020 next. Just so many options out there to do this 325 swap. ;):laugh::laugh:
 
Last edited:
JeremiahJohnson said:
Poulan sent me a email yesterday asking me how I liked the 5020 and if any feedback. First time that has happened with any saw or equipment purchase from any maker.

:cool2::msp_thumbup::msp_thumbsup:
Click to expand...

Thats interesting. Ask them if someone from there would register here so we can have discussions. Have them post a thread where anything goes. That efco rep did that and it was a good thread. I know my first question will be..when will we see a pro quality, split mag case, adjustable oiler, etc., 70 cc saw? Like, heres my thoughts, this would be cool, budget but still good quality, a 5020(18,16) and 7024(28,32) two saw plan....
 
JeremiahJohnson said:
Looks like same year too when they were pushing the new saw for testing. :rock:
Click to expand...

I like mine a *lot*. Unless something changes, that and my s25cva will proly be my full geezer what I can still run saws down the road.

Once I got used to using it , I really upped my production per battery charge. I had a learning curve with it. I LOVE the instant on / off compared to a regular small gasser when getting the little limbs off. Set it down, off, move brush outta the way, grab it, back to cutting. Dang nice.....I like the sharpener as well, and the powersharp chain. If they had it in full size 3/8ths Id be all over that to run on a 20 inch or larger bar on a bigger saw. I think it would work better than semi chisel... Looking at YOU Mr. nasty dirty shagbark hickory! HAHAHAHA!
 
JeremiahJohnson said:
Did. posted in another thread. ;)

Just got video of 5020 and 545. The 5020 was way fat for break in and the 545 was loading up when first started and 1st cut. Poor video too, used old cam on poor az setting.


I had a bearing in mind the same night I put the 325 echo drum on the 5020.

Well I confirmed it with calibers and ordered one. I will be putting a poulan 3000 3300 etc clutch drum with rims or spur in 325 on a 5020 next. Just so many options out there to do this 325 swap. ;):laugh::laugh:
Click to expand...


Thats good to know, I wondered if there was a brg out there. I just never thought it really worth my effort to follow up on it once I found out how well the 5020 pulled the 3/8's when equipped with a 16" bar.

I know the 3000 drum was a good fit otherwise. A oilite bushing would not have been crap though, Poulan equipped many saws that way stock for many years and they seemed to last a long time, in fact most at least lasted till the spur was shot.
 
Stephen C. said:
but would you pay $400 for it? I have $300 in my old fashioned Efco 152 ans 156 together. Mt Poulan 8500 was $200 and my Dolmar 7900 was $300. :msp_unsure::msp_unsure:
Click to expand...

I think their prices are fair and in line with other high end battery operated tools. And now husky/stihl/bosch/makita and ryobi all have decent enough saw models. I think the ryobi is the least expensive at 200, and they go up fast from there.. Go look what a new high end drill costs.... Your gas saw deal prices are used prices, those are not new prices. Of course I have similar good deal used saws...

As to $400 new, harry homeowner buys a homeowner level anything, even husky or stihl.. 200 something bucks, one year later, whoops, another tree down in the yard needs cutting, it has been run down with bad fuel, etc, yank yank yank much cussing, no start, take it to the shop, gets a quote that is almost as much as another saw...he gets another saw. Now into having a saw at over 400..so ya, its a deal for some. Add in convenience o built in chain sharpener...lot of people dont or cant shaarpen their own chains, real nice to not have to stop cutting, drive to the dealer, drop off chain, etc....

Go to amazon or some other place and read the real world, people who DID drop the coin to buy one. Usually after bad experience with gas saws and warranties that mean absolutely nothing because of ethanol fuel. Stock dealer answer, you straight gassed the saw! Home owner, I did not! Neither is lying, it is the crap fuel... those people are not chainsaw addicts on a hotrod forum like here, real world regular folks who do not have two dozen saws. Pretty much the highest reviews you will see. Those people love that saw. Read the reviews, it is quiet, starts instantly, always ready to rock, etc. Thats what they are paying for. Some go on and on their cheapo gas saws are better, yada yada, but most people who want a grab and go small saw love the no hassle deal associated with the battery saws. And eventually they will have other OPE you can use the saw batts with...people who live in big bucks suburbia and only cut branches and so on, not ten cords a year firewood...it just isnt that much money to those folks.

Really not trying to derail the 5020 thread here....
 
Been doing a bit more cutting on that same pile of wood from neighbors trees
and the saw just seemed a bit "off".
Seemed like it was getting easier to pull the recoil
power was down some and wanting to die at idle.

Re tweaked the carb some but saw still was erratic.
changed fuel filter and plug, seemed to help a bit
but still seemed down on power.
ran it a bit more and called it a day.
Crazy blustery windy day where if you lay down your gloves, they blow away
and getting tired of sawdust in the eyes,
and got a nasty headache after started cutting (?again).

compression gauge says dropping from last reading, so pulled muffler
and took a peek.

Still in warranty period, so no plans for a teardown and look see.

I don't have a manual focus option on the camera so getting a prefocus
and then pointing inside the saw was a bit tricky and
makes using my tripod (ballhead) near undoable, so the pics show my hand shake too.
 
LegDeLimber said:
Been doing a bit more cutting on that same pile of wood from neighbors trees
and the saw just seemed a bit "off".
Seemed like it was getting easier to pull the recoil
power was down some and wanting to die at idle.

Re tweaked the carb some but saw still was erratic.
changed fuel filter and plug, seemed to help a bit
but still seemed down on power.
ran it a bit more and called it a day.
Crazy blustery windy day where if you lay down your gloves, they blow away
and getting tired of sawdust in the eyes,
and got a nasty headache after started cutting (?again).

compression gauge says dropping from last reading, so pulled muffler
and took a peek.

Still in warranty period, so no plans for a teardown and look see.

I don't have a manual focus option on the camera so getting a prefocus
and then pointing inside the saw was a bit tricky and
makes using my tripod (ballhead) near undoable, so the pics show my hand shake too.
Click to expand...
The pics are pretty good, but I can't really tell what I'm seeing in that first shot. But the rest look fine to me. How much is it dropping by the gauge?

I think a gauge would be useful - I don't have one for chainsaws - but keep in mind what you are doing. Essentially you are cranking the engine slowly and recording the peak cylinder pressure at those low rpms, and trying to infer what this means for actual cylinder pressures during operation. The relationship between the two can be affected by a lot of things, including port timing. Even the low speed measurement is subject to a lot of variability. So it is useful as a relative measure. but don't read too much into it.
 
Finally got to run my new/used 5020 this weekend, good saw, I dig it! Sounds awesome. I need to get two good chains for it, the one I had was in rough shape but I got an over-all feel for the saw- and its thumbs up! (I was surprised to find that I dig the 20" bar, my back appreciated not leaning over as much)

Mine seemed to be set up right from Husky so if it aint broke- for now I'm leaving the carb settings alone.

Good job Husky!- she's a good all arounder.
 
HEY MARK! :) what chain should i order for the 20" bar and if i get a 16 inch bar what #'s would i need
to get a chain and a bar?? I have a tractor supply around but they have the stretchy tri link chains
im kinda chain size and # dumb, I know you need links and size. I dont have a good saw shop around here :msp_sad:
 

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