neoborn
ArboristSite Lurker
Ty Much - will check my area.
What would be a 'great' price or 'good' price for chain and bar?
What would be a 'great' price or 'good' price for chain and bar?
Bought a new Poulan Pro 5020 to see what there about
- Thread starter Modifiedmark
- Start date
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Vibes
Addicted to ArboristSite
3/8ths chain is purely a preference. .325 is fine for 50cc saws and you will find the chains are more readily available.
GrassGuerilla
Olympic Piss-reving wanna be.
Not in this case. As far as I know there is no .325 sprocket available for this saw. Weird size aparently. Please let me know if that changed.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
again 325 rim set up on 5020
Since folks have been asking about the .325, I found this post from JeremiahJohnson.
New to the site here.
A couple of weeks ago my 15 year old Poulan wt4018 finally wheezed to a stop and upon inspection, it has a nicely scored piston.
I have cut a couple of full cords a year with it since buying it new. Repaired it when needed and it has treated me well in performing homeowner saw firewood duties for longer than expected.
So, I need a new saw, I have a pretty strong mechanic background and can keep most anything well maintained. Started saw shopping on CL and was shocked at what a homeowner grade husky or stihl goes for used and abused. Googled a bit, found this thread, read it in its entirety, then picked up a new PP5020AV at the save big money store for $159 last week.
I bought a "pro" chain for it on amazon for $20 (shipped) and went out to my in-laws property to get me some wood for the season (now that is is cooling off in Northwest Ohio).
Felled a couple of dead, 18" hickorys and a similar sized oak, bucked em into manageable rounds and made 4 good round trips home with my prize.
After reading this enormous thread and keeping in mind the perspectives of all you "saw nutz" (all good, I understand tools and wanting nice tool-toys), I am so very glad to have bought this cheap saw.
I paid the same money for this pp5020 as I did for that wild thing back in 1999. It is 10x the saw!
Dang thing did everything I needed it to and did it well.
Yes, the carb was off out of the box but... I have the four pack of epa carb adjusting tools (how else are you supposed too keep a modern string trimmer or blower running!) So that bit of tuning was no big deal.
Out of the box the saw would die once you let off out of the cut. 1/4 of a turn richer on the low side and an idle speed adjustment, good to go.
Thanks guys. This saw is great for less than $200 all in. I hope it lasts like my old one cuz it cuts 9000 times better, feels 9000 times better than my old one (with a warranty no less).
Happy!
A couple of weeks ago my 15 year old Poulan wt4018 finally wheezed to a stop and upon inspection, it has a nicely scored piston.
I have cut a couple of full cords a year with it since buying it new. Repaired it when needed and it has treated me well in performing homeowner saw firewood duties for longer than expected.
So, I need a new saw, I have a pretty strong mechanic background and can keep most anything well maintained. Started saw shopping on CL and was shocked at what a homeowner grade husky or stihl goes for used and abused. Googled a bit, found this thread, read it in its entirety, then picked up a new PP5020AV at the save big money store for $159 last week.
I bought a "pro" chain for it on amazon for $20 (shipped) and went out to my in-laws property to get me some wood for the season (now that is is cooling off in Northwest Ohio).
Felled a couple of dead, 18" hickorys and a similar sized oak, bucked em into manageable rounds and made 4 good round trips home with my prize.
After reading this enormous thread and keeping in mind the perspectives of all you "saw nutz" (all good, I understand tools and wanting nice tool-toys), I am so very glad to have bought this cheap saw.
I paid the same money for this pp5020 as I did for that wild thing back in 1999. It is 10x the saw!
Dang thing did everything I needed it to and did it well.
Yes, the carb was off out of the box but... I have the four pack of epa carb adjusting tools (how else are you supposed too keep a modern string trimmer or blower running!) So that bit of tuning was no big deal.
Out of the box the saw would die once you let off out of the cut. 1/4 of a turn richer on the low side and an idle speed adjustment, good to go.
Thanks guys. This saw is great for less than $200 all in. I hope it lasts like my old one cuz it cuts 9000 times better, feels 9000 times better than my old one (with a warranty no less).
Happy!
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
I bought one two summers ago after getting about 15 years out of a Poulan 2150...sort of a Wild Thing. I agree it's a lot more motor.
If you notice the 5020 seeming to act like certain cutting positions cause four-stroking and the feeling of having let up on the throttle trigger, when you didn't, pop off the air filter cover and squeeze the trigger while trying to flex the rear handle from side to side, against pressure on the front handle. Watch the upper part of the throttle linkage, where it opens the strato-charging intake butterfly, as you do this.
Mine has developed quite a bit of side-to-side flexibility in that rear handle, in the area around where the scrench attaches underneath. When it flexes, it allows the upper barrel, for the strato air, to close partway, which seems to cause the engine to go rich and throttle back simultaneously. I can't find any cracks or fatigue marks there, but it's flexy-er than a few new ones I've examined on store shelves. I'm weighing the PITA factor of trying to fab up a brace for it versus just replacing the rear handle and hoping for the best.
Something to be on the watch for...but in the meantime, enjoy your saw. I still like mine a lot; I just have to remember to be careful not to flex the handle when I'm cutting.
If you notice the 5020 seeming to act like certain cutting positions cause four-stroking and the feeling of having let up on the throttle trigger, when you didn't, pop off the air filter cover and squeeze the trigger while trying to flex the rear handle from side to side, against pressure on the front handle. Watch the upper part of the throttle linkage, where it opens the strato-charging intake butterfly, as you do this.
Mine has developed quite a bit of side-to-side flexibility in that rear handle, in the area around where the scrench attaches underneath. When it flexes, it allows the upper barrel, for the strato air, to close partway, which seems to cause the engine to go rich and throttle back simultaneously. I can't find any cracks or fatigue marks there, but it's flexy-er than a few new ones I've examined on store shelves. I'm weighing the PITA factor of trying to fab up a brace for it versus just replacing the rear handle and hoping for the best.
Something to be on the watch for...but in the meantime, enjoy your saw. I still like mine a lot; I just have to remember to be careful not to flex the handle when I'm cutting.
neoborn
ArboristSite Lurker
Can anyone guide me to a good video on how to 'tune' the saw so I can tell how it should sound when tuned correctly in and out of the cut etc. Currently I would just tune it so it revs as high as possible (incorrect I believe)
Fastest way to kill your saw! I would go about 1/4 back from your "screaming" setting and adjust the L side so that you have a nice a rapid reaction when pulling the trigger! The saw will have more power in the cut. Just don't forget dB does not cut the wood!
7
zogger
Tree Freak
mexicanyella
ArboristSite Operative
I've only recently learned about tuning a saw to four-stroke out of the cut and clean up under cutting load. I always used to tune them to scream, then back off toward "rich" just slightly...but not necessarily to the point of four-stroking. I've seized two saws over the years. Luckily the most recent one, my newish 5020av, survived and still runs well after cooling off and retuning. Time will tell how long it holds up. These two videos were helpful; thanks!
Just picked one up at Blaines Farm Fleet. $180. Read the entire thread yesterday and decided to try one out. Might spend some time with it this afternoon. Definately different than my other Poulans. Thanks to all those that have contributed here.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
This might be helpful. I might've already posted it.
In another thread some folks reported that TSC had (has??) the the PP4818 on sale for $100.00. That's the 5020 with a 18" bar & a different model number. If I wasn't up to my ears in 50cc class saws (which includes a 5020, a 4620, & a 295 Farmhand) I'd would've been looking into that deal.
In another thread some folks reported that TSC had (has??) the the PP4818 on sale for $100.00. That's the 5020 with a 18" bar & a different model number. If I wasn't up to my ears in 50cc class saws (which includes a 5020, a 4620, & a 295 Farmhand) I'd would've been looking into that deal.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
FYI for anybody near a Rural King Ohio (or at least the Wooster one) They have reconditioned 18" PPs for $89, and new ones for $139. Also, new PP 5020AV for $189...
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
Per the RK website, the reconditioned saw for $89.00 is the PP4218.
The pp4218 is not nearly as robust as the pp5020av either.
brenndatomu
Hey you woodchucks, quit chucking my wood!
I agree, but it's also cheaper than date night at the local steak house...so, go to RKO, and the next morning ya gots a decent lil saw for limbing that should last a few years, or go to the steakhouse and the next morning, ya ain't got ****, well, actually you do, 10 minutes on the porcelain throne
True that...I agree, but it's also cheaper than date night at the local steak house...so, go to RKO and the next morning ya gots a decent lil saw for limbing that should last a few years, or go to the steakhouse and the next morning, ya ain't got ****, well, actually you do, 10 minutes on the porcelain throne
I got 15 years out of a wild thing...
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
I wonder any of the TSCs around here ever had? still have? the refurb 4818s for $99.00. We don't live near one, but my wife drives by a TSC twice a day M-F.
I can see the look on her face if I asked her to check on a chainsaw for me.
I can see the look on her face
if I asked her to check on a chainsaw for me.
Chris J.
Addicted to ArboristSite
This information regarding the proper bar mount for those wanting a 16" bar on the PP5020 is buried in this thread, and I think that it's worth sharing.
Thanks & credit goes to Modifiedmark:
Posted by member Modifiedmark on ArboristSite on Feb 12 2012 at 5:16PM:
“It just so happens I had a 16" 3/8's Power Match in K095 and put it on with a new 60DL Oregon 72LGX chain to try out.”
I'm guessing--won't dare assume--that the above info also applies to the PP4818.
Thanks & credit goes to Modifiedmark:
Posted by member Modifiedmark on ArboristSite on Feb 12 2012 at 5:16PM:
“It just so happens I had a 16" 3/8's Power Match in K095 and put it on with a new 60DL Oregon 72LGX chain to try out.”
I'm guessing--won't dare assume--that the above info also applies to the PP4818.
