Plasmech
Addicted to ArboristSite
Off topic here Jack, but I have some big-azzed poplars to take down. Any words of wisdom on cutting poplar? Is this stuff like super un-predictable?
bowline on a bight, grabbing just one loop?
- Thread starter Plasmech
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Off topic here Jack, but I have some big-azzed poplars to take down. Any words of wisdom on cutting poplar? Is this stuff like super un-predictable?
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
Yeah, I know ... I tried steering it back on topic a couple of times ... hope your corner trap questions were answered ...
Anyway, about poplar ... they are somewhat un-predictable but NOT SUPER UN-PREDICTABLE. I had one break off (at a sharp angle) 10ft above the butt without any warning ... slid straight down and stuck 2ft in the ground. It's a generally weak wood. I've always felt it best to let them fall in the direction of lean, if possible. Avoid forcing them too much - pull and hold lines don't always work as expected - so be extra-extra careful ... keep a sharp eye on the entire stem, not just the crown and the butt.
Good luck - let us know how it goes,
Jack
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Plasmech
Addicted to ArboristSite
A little less straightforward...I need to climb these big guys, probably 90 feet tall, and bomb out the top so the bottom 40 feet can be felled.
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
Well then ... I can only tell you what I'd do ... but I'll need more particulars:
Is the stand all poplar?
Clearing only or thinning?
Gaff, DdRT, DRT, SRT?
What's your gound support like?
Can you bomb everything or need a speedline?
What's the terrain?
Any structures, fences, powerlines or other obstacles?
Why block down to 40ft?
Harvesting any lumber? - certainly not veneer or firewood?
40ft sounds like you'll truck out the spars?
What's the road structure like?
No heavy ground equipment?
Or, are you gonna parbuckle?
What's your rigging gear? - just bull rope & come-alongs?
What's your rigging plan?
Etc, etc, etc ...
Lots to consider when you're planning a job
- Jack
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Plasmech
Addicted to ArboristSite
Jack,
-4 poplar trees, all removals.
-nothing anywhere near the drop zone, it would be impossible to hit anything even if I wanted to. The trees are out in the open.
-ground support: sucks
-plan is to DRT ascend, gaff when/where necessary
-here's the interesting part...there's a huge gully that the guy wants the wood thrown down into...so everything goes down there. Not the way I would do it on my property but oh well...
-no power lines anywhere around
-don't own and heavy ground equipment, but I get a real good free workout.
-4 poplar trees, all removals.
-nothing anywhere near the drop zone, it would be impossible to hit anything even if I wanted to. The trees are out in the open.
-ground support: sucks
-plan is to DRT ascend, gaff when/where necessary
-here's the interesting part...there's a huge gully that the guy wants the wood thrown down into...so everything goes down there. Not the way I would do it on my property but oh well...
-no power lines anywhere around
-don't own and heavy ground equipment, but I get a real good free workout.
If there is nothing beneath the tree, why aren't you just cutting it down?
Why climb?
Why climb?
Re: bowline on a bight
Say I want to install a 5/8" block on a bull rope using a bowline-on-a-bight. Only one of the two loops formed will fit into the attachment pin pulley. Is it acceptable to do this? Otherwise, what's a recommended knot for this application that will actually come out after she's loaded to several thousand pounds? This is a snatch block w/ come-along application by the way.
Hi, all. Plasmech, getting back to the original post, I can see that there might be instances in your set up where no knot might work. Simply pass one end of the anchor rope in one side of the block out the other and let the block sit in the middle of the line. This is the line you are using to anchor the block. Anchor the 2 ends of the rope around whatever the anchor is to be and let the block float to the midpoint of the rope. You would not have to worry about one side being loaded more heavily than the other. This would, I am sure, would not be the way to go with every job, but it might work for you here. Obviously, the working line-the lowering line or tensioning line- whatever rope you use in the block needs to be the weakest link. I would also mention that no knot is easier to untie than any other knot, or at least in my experience.
I also would mention that the SS 5/8 arborist block, it is made by CMI, is rated for 2,800 lbs WLL. It is a real nice block, I have one and use it alot, but several thousand lbs load is too high. Go for the 3/4' model of the same thing and you can use 5/8 rope in it no problem (as per conversation with Wes Spur). Then you can use 3/4 rope for the anchor rope and not have to do a dance to adhere to the weakest link rule. You really don't want the anchor to break and have that big hunk of metal come flying straight at you.
eljefe
Say I want to install a 5/8" block on a bull rope using a bowline-on-a-bight. Only one of the two loops formed will fit into the attachment pin pulley. Is it acceptable to do this? Otherwise, what's a recommended knot for this application that will actually come out after she's loaded to several thousand pounds? This is a snatch block w/ come-along application by the way.
Hi, all. Plasmech, getting back to the original post, I can see that there might be instances in your set up where no knot might work. Simply pass one end of the anchor rope in one side of the block out the other and let the block sit in the middle of the line. This is the line you are using to anchor the block. Anchor the 2 ends of the rope around whatever the anchor is to be and let the block float to the midpoint of the rope. You would not have to worry about one side being loaded more heavily than the other. This would, I am sure, would not be the way to go with every job, but it might work for you here. Obviously, the working line-the lowering line or tensioning line- whatever rope you use in the block needs to be the weakest link. I would also mention that no knot is easier to untie than any other knot, or at least in my experience.
I also would mention that the SS 5/8 arborist block, it is made by CMI, is rated for 2,800 lbs WLL. It is a real nice block, I have one and use it alot, but several thousand lbs load is too high. Go for the 3/4' model of the same thing and you can use 5/8 rope in it no problem (as per conversation with Wes Spur). Then you can use 3/4 rope for the anchor rope and not have to do a dance to adhere to the weakest link rule. You really don't want the anchor to break and have that big hunk of metal come flying straight at you.
eljefe
SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
:agree2: I'd drop 'em whole!!!
Me thinks it be for practice!!!
IMO there's only tree reasons to climb:
1) Pruning
2) Unsafe to drop the whole tree
3) Practice/recreation.
Practice is good ... BUT THOSE ARE DAMN BIG TREES FOR PRACTICE!!!
That being said ... Plas, please be wary of any advice you get from anyone who isn't standing shoulder to shoulder with you seeing the problems you're facing ... especially someone you don't know!!!
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Well...just about every climber needed some practice at just felling trees, too.
I suspect climbing practice is not what is needed. Sometimes folks use most the methods that they know best. If you need help choppin' & droppin' these trees, there is lots of help here at AS on that topic, too.
By the way: for that mid-line knot, try the man-harness knot. Putting a load on in the middle of a line is what it is designed to do, and it unties easily after heavy loading, unlike the alpine butterfly. Someday I'll get somebody here at AS to try it out...
I suspect climbing practice is not what is needed. Sometimes folks use most the methods that they know best. If you need help choppin' & droppin' these trees, there is lots of help here at AS on that topic, too.
By the way: for that mid-line knot, try the man-harness knot. Putting a load on in the middle of a line is what it is designed to do, and it unties easily after heavy loading, unlike the alpine butterfly. Someday I'll get somebody here at AS to try it out...
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SINGLE-JACK
ArboristSite Guru
Man-Harness Knot
