Stihl oil seals
Brand new Oil seal leak help
- Thread starter Vintage Engine Repairs
- Start date
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It could be something as simple as an errant hair that got assembled with the seal on the inner lip.
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No offense, or smart-assed-ness intended
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The excess amount of Dirko sealer that's squeezed out is more than likely squeezed out on the inside of the engine too.
I take a plumbers 1/4" acid brush to smooth out the dirko, and remove any excess.
PS; In my opinion, Yamabond #4 is far more forgiving, cheaper, and less messy than dirko. Even on a base gasket omit, you can fire up the saw just as quick as you can finish assembling the saw.....(15 min)
I do several rebuilds a day, and a small tube will last a couple months. A dead 1/8" dremel shank poked back in the end keeps it from drying out for weeks.
*
No offense, or smart-assed-ness intended
:The excess amount of Dirko sealer that's squeezed out is more than likely squeezed out on the inside of the engine too.
I take a plumbers 1/4" acid brush to smooth out the dirko, and remove any excess.
PS; In my opinion, Yamabond #4 is far more forgiving, cheaper, and less messy than dirko. Even on a base gasket omit, you can fire up the saw just as quick as you can finish assembling the saw.....(15 min)
I do several rebuilds a day, and a small tube will last a couple months. A dead 1/8" dremel shank poked back in the end keeps it from drying out for weeks.
Perhaps the seal rolled slightly when installing it or maybe some unseen debris?
It's unlikely it's defective out of the box, but you never know.
It's unlikely it's defective out of the box, but you never know.
drf255
BAD CAD
Seal looks backwards. I see the tension spring, that needs to be on the inside. The crank taper is probably not fully sealing the inner flange in the wrong direction.
It doesn't look like any Stihl seal I've seen before, with a seemingly molded in reinforcement ring.
It may not be all the way in against the case housing.
If I see that right, it looks like it doesn't clear the flywheel taper, maybe? It still shouldn't leak under pressure though, as that's the inner lips' job. Maybe that's a bodgy Chinesium seal aye?
No, wait. It's upside down. (down there in Austria).....
It may not be all the way in against the case housing.
If I see that right, it looks like it doesn't clear the flywheel taper, maybe? It still shouldn't leak under pressure though, as that's the inner lips' job. Maybe that's a bodgy Chinesium seal aye?
No, wait. It's upside down. (down there in Austria).....
drf255
BAD CAD
Sorry Tom. Looks like it’s gotta come apart.
That’s backwards.
Site won’t allow me to post a pic for some reason.
Here’s a link to OEM seals on eBay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/222611317189
The good news is that with that clamshell design, they should be able to flip and reinstall.
That’s backwards.
Site won’t allow me to post a pic for some reason.
Here’s a link to OEM seals on eBay.
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/222611317189
The good news is that with that clamshell design, they should be able to flip and reinstall.
Thanks guys, seal is correctly orientated and is OEM “soft seal” which should be installed with the ring facing out. It’s completely on the shaft and not on the taper but it’s close. The lip we can see is a dust seal and the inner is the oil seal. Hmmm Thaanks for the suggestions !
redunshee
Addicted to ArboristSite
While there is too much Dirko, I'd run saw as it is. Seems to hold pressure well enough to not cause a problem. You can always recheck after a tank or two.
installer error I believe lets see a good pic of the seal with no water.
Took it out with the engine together will fit another. Notice where it’s leaking, it’s from the bloody gap in the metal ring area. When I pushed the ring around, the air leak moved inline with it every time. anyway, going to tap a new one in and go from there.
what sealant gives you a longer working time than dirko? This stuf is a pain in the arse. It skins up so quickly it’s infuriating.
what sealant gives you a longer working time than dirko? This stuf is a pain in the arse. It skins up so quickly it’s infuriating.
- Joined
- Dec 6, 2014
- Messages
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Yamabond 4 !!
Thanks for the suggestion mate
just had a look but doesn’t say anything about it being able to come into contact with fuel? Been stung with this before with another sealant that’s all. Set time of 1 hour sounds absolutely wonderful though!!
Justin Taylor
ArboristSite Guru
I use
permatex grey is what I use
Yamabond if you can get it will be fine mate, or Threebond 1104, basically the same thing over here.
Thanks mate! Yamabond it is
Permatex grey dissolves when fuel contacts it.
Threebond smells really good, which is great for huffing, but dries brittle.
Yamabond #4 will dern near stick to oil. Won't dissove in fuel, and stays semi-pliable when dry. Which is good for vibrating high RPM engines.
It's da bomb.
Threebond smells really good, which is great for huffing, but dries brittle.
Yamabond #4 will dern near stick to oil. Won't dissove in fuel, and stays semi-pliable when dry. Which is good for vibrating high RPM engines.
It's da bomb.
Kevin Bloody Wilson used to sing a good song about them...... not sure I can link it here though!
