Breathing Life into Dry Chains

[Justsaws]

Damn chains are stuck. Damn saws not have endless damn power. Damn clutches are damn expensive, gets damn smokey and sometimes damn bar gets damn hot. Damn bars are damn expensive.

Damn chains can be expensive.

 

[HarleyT]

Lol, then just dab on some oil on the damn chain and run it!!!

 

[HarleyT]

Hell, it is early September!!! Way to early for the stupid topics to pop up!!!!

 

[HarleyT]

Dry chain? MMMMnnnn.
Put some damn oil on it!!!!!

 

[HarleyT]

I think that there may be 2 different trains of thought here.
Some folks are commenting on loosening up stiff, rusted up loops. I think that the op is talking about loops that were "cleaned" by someone that doesn't like dirty chains, and after the chains have been cleaned and sharpened, the chains get dry and rattly when all of the cleaning fluid evaporates.
2 different topics....

 

[HarleyT]

If your chain feels dry and stiff if after running on your saw, then you have oiler trouble!!

 

[Wood Doctor]

I think that there may be 2 different trains of thought here.
Some folks are commenting on loosening up stiff, rusted up loops. I think that the op is talking about loops that were "cleaned" by someone that doesn't like dirty chains, and after the chains have been cleaned and sharpened, the chains get dry and rattly when all of the cleaning fluid evaporates.
2 different topics....

Probably true, but we can kill two birds with one thread. A rusted chain is usually very stiff. I have run into several rusted chains that were so stiff that they could not be saved for future use. They were just blobs of rusted steel that were thrown into a 5-gal bucket. But, the owner asked me to save them if at all possible.

 

[2 Stroke Pete]

Thanks guys. I can confirm that the damn oiler is working fine , other chains are OK. Only a couple that are dry, by dry I mean dry and slightly rusty. Not ceased. I will try some of your suggestions, cheers!

 

[Bobby Kirbos]

OIL THREAD!

Everybody into the damn pool.

 

[rd35]

When I sharpen chains for customers, I wash the chain in mineral spirits, blow it dry with compressed air, sharpen, spray it with PB Blaster till wet, put it in a tiny little zip-lock bag, done! That way the customers hands and vehicle stay clean and the chain stays lubed until ready to install. I don't get all wrapped around the axle about what kind of lube as it will all be swapped out with chain oil in just a few second after the saw starts! While in storage, the lube is actually just a preservative to keep the chain from rusting and also makes the chain look nice for the customer!!!

 

[buzz sawyer]

When I sharpen chains for customers, I wash the chain in mineral spirits, blow it dry with compressed air, sharpen, spray it with PB Blaster till wet, put it in a tiny little zip-lock bag, done! That way the customers hands and vehicle stay clean and the chain stays lubed until ready to install. I don't get all wrapped around the axle about what kind of lube as it will all be swapped out with chain oil in just a few second after the saw starts! While in storage, the lube is actually just a preservative to keep the chain from rusting and also makes the chain look nice for the customer!!!

Good marketing plan. I've always believed in returning a chain or saw looking better than when I got it.

 

[Saw Fixr]

I Soak in degreaser for a bit, then wire brush in the cleaning tank. Blow off with air, sharpen, hit each tooth with the wire wheel, back to the cleaning tank, wire brush again, blow off, drizzle with Walmart 2 stroke oil. It’s blue oil, so it must be good. Into plastic bag. Looks as good as new....$8.00 please....

 

[Philbert]

I have been soaking mine in bar oil, then hanging them to let the oil drip off. I am not sure if it the right thing to do, however just wanted your opinions/guidance.

@HarleyT made a good point in Post #25, but I won't quote him as it just goes to his head.

I clean / degrease many chains before sharpening, as described in the threads below. This tends to remove all lubrication, but is necessary due to the condition of some chains I receive (they look like they are covered in asphalt). After sharpening, I re-lubricate with a heavy coat of WD-40 to penetrate through the rivet holes, and to eliminate any moisture before storage (discourage rusting).

Some chains I get are rusted, and need to be de-rusted (details in the salvage chain thread).

But some chains I receive feel rusted, and are really locked up due to dried up grease/oil around the rivets. After cleaning I need to drizzle on a thin oil (like 3-In-One), and work the links back and forth to free them.

It helps to understand that the middle part of each rivet is hardened and acts like a bearing; it is critical that oil gets in there, as well as between the plates. So if it is really 'dry', I still want a thin, carrier oil to penetrate first, before lubing or soaking the chain in thick, sticky, bar and chain oil. I would choose a thinner machine oil for storage.

(Tri-Link image)




Again, more details in these threads:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Philbert

 

[svk]

Also the first time I've heard of "dry chains". Can someone elaborate or show a photo? If the oiler on the saw is working correctly, that should be all you need. Now if the chain is so rusted that the links are frozen, it's a goner. I have never soaked a new or used chain in anything as long as the links are free.

You get a saw that sat outside or on a damp floor and the chain will have flash rust on it.

 

[svk]

I spray mine with wd-40 or pb and get it moving enough to fit into a bag. Spray it a little more and let it sit. Usually frees it right up.

 

[HarleyT]

I spray mine with wd-40 or pb and get it moving enough to fit into a bag. Spray it a little more and let it sit. Usually frees it right up.

Works for me with lots of things!!!

 

[Canyon Angler]

If/when mine rust up, I just soak them in some drain oil and kerosene, then use them. No need for Houston Mission Control...

I wouldn't trust them to WD-40. It eventually evaporates, leaving nothing behind, unlike drain oil.

 

[stihl sawing]

Saw chains are inadament objects, they are not alive to have a life and without lungs neither do they breath.

 

[HarleyT]

I soak mine in cider.......

 

[2 Stroke Pete]

@HarleyT made a good point in Post #25, but I won't quote him as it just goes to his head.

I clean / degrease many chains before sharpening, as described in the threads below. This tends to remove all lubrication, but is necessary due to the condition of some chains I receive (they look like they are covered in asphalt). After sharpening, I re-lubricate with a heavy coat of WD-40 to penetrate through the rivet holes, and to eliminate any moisture before storage (discourage rusting).

Some chains I get are rusted, and need to be de-rusted (details in the salvage chain thread).

But some chains I receive feel rusted, and are really locked up due to dried up grease/oil around the rivets. After cleaning I need to drizzle on a thin oil (like 3-In-One), and work the links back and forth to free them.

It helps to understand that the middle part of each rivet is hardened and acts like a bearing; it is critical that oil gets in there, as well as between the plates. So if it is really 'dry', I still want a thin, carrier oil to penetrate first, before lubing or soaking the chain in thick, sticky, bar and chain oil. I would choose a thinner machine oil for storage.

View attachment 674716(Tri-Link image)




Again, more details in these threads:

https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philbert-meets-the-stihl-rs3.202969/
https://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/philberts-chain-salvage-challenge.245369/

Philbert

Hi Philbert, thank you for the thorough write up, great stuff! I have been using WD-40 since the initial post, and it does work a treat.