just got to figure out how to silicone while hanging upside down on top of the volvo side panelI have seen the alum method on youtube on a broken stud and the results were the same.
just got to figure out how to silicone while hanging upside down on top of the volvo side panelI have seen the alum method on youtube on a broken stud and the results were the same.
Watched the last video first. Some good info. All the swearing adds nothing for me, but might impress the kids.
I must be getting old
I can't watch his videos, the cussing just turns me off. How does he do the can bolt removal?
You haven't had any fun at all until you do a spark plug change on a 5.4 three valve Ford at about 100,000 miles 5 out of 8 broke off.
Yeah and the guys that came up that magnificent design were all making 6 figures ++ because theys edumucated an smart n all. And you can be sure that more than few Ford engineers had a look at that design on drawing board and all thought they were looking at the next "best thing". Just proves once again that you can't teach intelligence.You haven't had any fun at all until you do a spark plug change on a 5.4 three valve Ford at about 100,000 miles 5 out of 8 broke off.
The use of antiseize and "loctite" has ended most of my broken bolt issues. but you aren't usually the one who has assembled the item you are taking apart. but I do find a set of left twist drill bits very handy. Run your drill in reverse and drill the bolt. Often as the drill is drilling, it will just unwind the bolt. If I am working on an item I suspect will have bolts that shear, then a preapplication of PB blaster as stated above seems to help.
Just out of curiosity, what do you people think of this set? http://www.ebay.com/itm/Left-Handed-Drill-Bit-Set-Screw-Extractor-EZ-OUT-Lifetime-Warranty-Drill-Hog-USA-/181850968817?hash=item2a572992f1:g:J4oAAOSwHnFV4g0r
Even with shipping and taxes is far cheaper than anything we have here. It's SAE size and 95% of what i deal with is metric but I think that's not a big deal.
And if you can.......find center with a mill and use an endmill to take out the center of the bolt and never touch the parent material. Loves my mill. LolIt's all been said, but my normal formula -
Kroil.
Left handed drill bits.
Percussion.
Work counterclockwise and clockwise when trying to loosen.
Heat/cold.
And when it doesn't work, drill out and go with perma-coil or TimeSert.
They don't look like split point either.Seems to be a fair price.
It appears that the larger bits are not a round shank. (where the chuck clamps)
I prefer a round shank when drilling with large bits especially for easy outs, etc, so if the bit hangs it will slip instead of grab and break off or severe twist.
Could probably grind off the shank down to the round shank area.
Just my 2 cents.
Seems to be a fair price.
It appears that the larger bits are not a round shank. (where the chuck clamps)
I prefer a round shank when drilling with large bits especially for easy outs, etc, so if the bit hangs it will slip instead of grab and break off or severe twist.
Could probably grind off the shank down to the round shank area.
Just my 2 cents.
I've had very good luck welding a nut on and turning out the broken bolt, might take a few tries but I've only had a couple not come out.
Yup!!!!AvE is the man for sure.
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