brush cutter advice needed
- Thread starter Bobcat
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Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
When you are saying brush cutter are you refering to a clearing saw??
I recently purchased the Sthil 450 clearing saw that comes with a circular saw blade. The blade is a wicked looking thing that is heavy duty all the way for clearing saws, the common Sthil circular saw blade is pale in comparision.
I've had the saw about a month, but have not had a chance to play with it yet, I have a little pasture clearing job coming up and then it will get a good work out. Before buying it I had a chance to talk to a guy that has five of these clearing saws and small mowers for doing praire restoration work, the 450 was his favorite, the 550 was some what of an overkill according to him. I went with his advice as the 550 is $ 200 more than the 450, but will do about the same amount of work. This guy also tried some Husky saws but did have that much positive things to say about them.
The Sthil tri cut blades work great for cutting small brush and course weeds. The circular blades will dull quicker if you hit rocks, steel fence posts and any other non wood objects.
Check out the chain saw forum, I started a thread about 2 to 3 months ago, on this same subject about Sthil cutting attachments
Frans and others made some interesting comments, that you will find helpful in making a decision on which tool to buy.
Larry
I recently purchased the Sthil 450 clearing saw that comes with a circular saw blade. The blade is a wicked looking thing that is heavy duty all the way for clearing saws, the common Sthil circular saw blade is pale in comparision.
I've had the saw about a month, but have not had a chance to play with it yet, I have a little pasture clearing job coming up and then it will get a good work out. Before buying it I had a chance to talk to a guy that has five of these clearing saws and small mowers for doing praire restoration work, the 450 was his favorite, the 550 was some what of an overkill according to him. I went with his advice as the 550 is $ 200 more than the 450, but will do about the same amount of work. This guy also tried some Husky saws but did have that much positive things to say about them.
The Sthil tri cut blades work great for cutting small brush and course weeds. The circular blades will dull quicker if you hit rocks, steel fence posts and any other non wood objects.
Check out the chain saw forum, I started a thread about 2 to 3 months ago, on this same subject about Sthil cutting attachments
Frans and others made some interesting comments, that you will find helpful in making a decision on which tool to buy.
Larry
Last edited:
Thanks Larry. I will look the your post. I was thinging about going with the Husky 345rx brush cutter. But, I will take a look at the specs on the clearing saws--in the catalog, they look like a serious piece of equipment.
bob
bob
Timberjackboy
ArboristSite Operative
saws
I thinned. I starte dout with the stihle FS 550 then this past summer i switched to the 265 husky. The husky has more power in the bigger wood. But i found the Fs550 to be alot more reliable and smoother running saw. For one thing just to get at the spark plug on the husky you had to take the whole top off which takes time. Withe the stihle thers just one bolt and your in to the spark plug. The husky also had some sort of filter out fit on the muffler that kept clogging up after i removed the filter i had no more problems. The air filter on the husky also liked to clog up way more in the stihle. In my opinion I like husky Chainsaws but when it came to their clearing saws they need to do some work.
I thinned. I starte dout with the stihle FS 550 then this past summer i switched to the 265 husky. The husky has more power in the bigger wood. But i found the Fs550 to be alot more reliable and smoother running saw. For one thing just to get at the spark plug on the husky you had to take the whole top off which takes time. Withe the stihle thers just one bolt and your in to the spark plug. The husky also had some sort of filter out fit on the muffler that kept clogging up after i removed the filter i had no more problems. The air filter on the husky also liked to clog up way more in the stihle. In my opinion I like husky Chainsaws but when it came to their clearing saws they need to do some work.
JJackson
ArboristSite Operative
I used husqvarna when I was with the forest service in New Brunswick. Most of the saws up there where huskies and like Timberjackboy most guys I know run those orange saws, usually the 265. Like the advice given to someone buying equipment, look at dealer support. Buy one specifically for brush/thinning no a glorified weed wacker. and always make sure the hook on you harness is functioning.
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
"Bobcat",
Some dos & donts about clearing saws:
There are numerous brands of clearing saws available today. But in my opinion Stihl makes the best.
The reason I say this is because Stihl makes theirs with a primer bulb.
The Husky version (i think it is a 165) does not, and after a while using it, it will be harder to start.
1. Stihl makes the biggest "three point" cutting blade on the market today.
This blade is by far the most versatile of the attachments available.
when using this blade, maintain rpms and strike with the blade, dont hold it against the material to be cut and saw at it.
Of course, as with anything be aware that you are shock loading the saw, angle gears, housing, shaft etc etc so make sure you strike in small bites on bigger material.
Pampus grass, berry vines, broom etc all have different hardness levels and will cut differently.
2. when using the whip head attachment get the manual adjusting kind, the automatic whip length adjustment heads break real soon or get so clogged up with junk they dont work.
3. Dont get the 'super delux' harness. It is not as adjustable as the plastic harness (it has air holes throughout with fabric sleeves over the shoulders) and the waist belt on the super delux model holds the maching too tightly against your body.
4. Keep the angle gear housing grease level at the proper fullness.
5. Dont hold the handles too tightly when using the brush blades, strike but let the machine bounce back a little. If you muscle it you will break the gears or the casing will get out of alignment.
6. Adjust the harness correctly, the machine head should float just above the ground, and the head should be level to the ground.
7. DONT lug the machine using longer and longer whip. The whip head is the only attachment where you can lug the engine and it causes problems. You will be using the 550 and want a bigger and bigger swath but rein yourself in cause the engine will suffer and you will be repairing it soon.
Enough? wait there is more:
Husky pioneered the clearing saws and made the best angle gear housing in the industry. Used by the swedish to thin stands of trees to promote straighter stands of timber.
I dont like the Huskys because of the air cleaner set ups, the lack of primer bulbs.
Also the Stihl has more holes to hang the saw from your harness. Until 10 years or so ago, Stihl only made clearing saws with very unbalanced shafts. They have taken care of this now.
The fs550 is the largest but it has a shorter shaft which equates to your body being kinked over to get the head to the material.
I have the fs550 and the fs350. The fs350 has the longer shaft so I use it for lighter work.
Both run like a champ and I've had them for several years
Good luck
Frans
Some dos & donts about clearing saws:
There are numerous brands of clearing saws available today. But in my opinion Stihl makes the best.
The reason I say this is because Stihl makes theirs with a primer bulb.
The Husky version (i think it is a 165) does not, and after a while using it, it will be harder to start.
1. Stihl makes the biggest "three point" cutting blade on the market today.
This blade is by far the most versatile of the attachments available.
when using this blade, maintain rpms and strike with the blade, dont hold it against the material to be cut and saw at it.
Of course, as with anything be aware that you are shock loading the saw, angle gears, housing, shaft etc etc so make sure you strike in small bites on bigger material.
Pampus grass, berry vines, broom etc all have different hardness levels and will cut differently.
2. when using the whip head attachment get the manual adjusting kind, the automatic whip length adjustment heads break real soon or get so clogged up with junk they dont work.
3. Dont get the 'super delux' harness. It is not as adjustable as the plastic harness (it has air holes throughout with fabric sleeves over the shoulders) and the waist belt on the super delux model holds the maching too tightly against your body.
4. Keep the angle gear housing grease level at the proper fullness.
5. Dont hold the handles too tightly when using the brush blades, strike but let the machine bounce back a little. If you muscle it you will break the gears or the casing will get out of alignment.
6. Adjust the harness correctly, the machine head should float just above the ground, and the head should be level to the ground.
7. DONT lug the machine using longer and longer whip. The whip head is the only attachment where you can lug the engine and it causes problems. You will be using the 550 and want a bigger and bigger swath but rein yourself in cause the engine will suffer and you will be repairing it soon.
Enough? wait there is more:
Husky pioneered the clearing saws and made the best angle gear housing in the industry. Used by the swedish to thin stands of trees to promote straighter stands of timber.
I dont like the Huskys because of the air cleaner set ups, the lack of primer bulbs.
Also the Stihl has more holes to hang the saw from your harness. Until 10 years or so ago, Stihl only made clearing saws with very unbalanced shafts. They have taken care of this now.
The fs550 is the largest but it has a shorter shaft which equates to your body being kinked over to get the head to the material.
I have the fs550 and the fs350. The fs350 has the longer shaft so I use it for lighter work.
Both run like a champ and I've had them for several years
Good luck
Frans
JJackson
ArboristSite Operative
Good information from frans...but I did not know you could put a trimmer head on a proper clearing saw. Bobcat I use to have some safety information but had left that in Canada when I left. The platic lock/latch is on the steel hook that supends the saw from the harness. This is a very important safety feature that keeps the saw blade away from you if you fall or just when moving around. I would not operate a clearing saw without it. Never had trouble without the primer bulb, have one on my weed eater and none on my chainsaw and never had trouble starting either one. But along with the primer bulb the other features on the stihl as mentioned by frans and timberjackboy would point one towards the stihl if the dealer support is local.
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
The reason why the primer bulb seems to be important is (I guess) the engine is rather large and the fuel seems to seep back into the tank so it requires several pulls to get things back. On a clearing saw this can be a hassle, starting it on the ground means the head is churning away and kicking up who knows what into your face.
By the way Jackson a clearing saw is not a "weed wacker" nor is it a chainsaw. Different animals altogether. So 'Bobcat' tottally disregard Jacksons remark.
Frans
"Arborist and tottally against stupid 'user' names and 'avatars'- what is this cub scouts or something?
By the way Jackson a clearing saw is not a "weed wacker" nor is it a chainsaw. Different animals altogether. So 'Bobcat' tottally disregard Jacksons remark.
Frans
"Arborist and tottally against stupid 'user' names and 'avatars'- what is this cub scouts or something?
JJackson
ArboristSite Operative
I did not say that the primer bulb is useless, I just said I never had trouble starting the clearing saws that I used without a bulb. I am sure there is added benefit to the bulb like easier starting after the fuel has seeped down into the tank. Most of the guys that I know that ran thinning saws for seasonal employment (clearing saws) use Huskies, but where I grew up I beleive the dealer support was better. And another tip make sure the blade guard in good shape and never use the saw when its missing or broken. You should be albe to find information on diretional felling with a clearing saw online. Good luck Bobcat.
JJackson
ArboristSite Operative
Bob, what type of vegetation are you looking to clear. heavy grasses, small bushes, small trees etc.. I think that would help us out to know.
This purchase will be solely for brush clearing ; 1" to 3" in diameter. Quite a few acres to do. I did a little internet browsing at lunch & like the new highend Husky units. Like the 345rx (brush) and the 345fx (clearing). I see there is a 345fxt with heated handles, but I would have to get that in Canada.
Did not get a chance to look at the Stihl options yet.
Husky makes a point of saying their 345fx model has a 23 degree builtin cutting angle. I do not know the angle on the 345rx model to compare, plus I am not sure of the functioinal value of 23 degrees. Is more degrees better when cutting brush ?
bob
Did not get a chance to look at the Stihl options yet.
Husky makes a point of saying their 345fx model has a 23 degree builtin cutting angle. I do not know the angle on the 345rx model to compare, plus I am not sure of the functioinal value of 23 degrees. Is more degrees better when cutting brush ?
bob
Ax-man
Addicted to ArboristSite
Maybe you need a small mowing unit.
Larry
Larry
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
TAKE THOSE BLADE GUARDS OFF RIGHT AWAY!
They get in the way and the whip head cannot whip the whip line around cleanly.
DONT TAKE OFF THE BLADE GUARD if you are unable to function or are 'differently abled'
Frans
They get in the way and the whip head cannot whip the whip line around cleanly.
DONT TAKE OFF THE BLADE GUARD if you are unable to function or are 'differently abled'
Frans
JJackson
ArboristSite Operative
Leave the blade guard on when using a saw blade. When using a trimming head do as you wish.
canguy21
ArboristSite Operative
Brush cutter advice
There is a big difference between a brush cutter and a clearing saw. The clearing saw is designed for short bursts of high rpm action with a breather in between. That is why it will not accept a trimmer head. The brush cutter, while slower, is more forgiving and will run at high speed for longer periods
There is a big difference between a brush cutter and a clearing saw. The clearing saw is designed for short bursts of high rpm action with a breather in between. That is why it will not accept a trimmer head. The brush cutter, while slower, is more forgiving and will run at high speed for longer periods
Frans
ArboristSite Operative
Then why does stihl make a whip head for the FS550?
Frans
Frans
JohnDeereMan
ArboristSite Lurker
A matter of choice
I've used them both but prefer the sthil.
I've used them both but prefer the sthil.
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