NorthernMaverick
ArboristSite Member
Run one next to a 562 for a week, using it hard in hot dry weather, and then tell me they're still best in class.
Bucking Saw Suggestions?
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NorthernMaverick
ArboristSite Member
Hope you have better luck with echo and their lack of customer service than I did.
My support has been great. I had a cs-400 that died out cutting logs in a river. Was barely out of warranty took to my dealer and they said alil water was in saw but after closer inspection there was a new coil. I highly doubted water infiltrated saw because I was watching what I was doing.
If I knew more about the inner workings of saws I would of MM it and tuned it. The best saw to me is the one that starts up with a sharp chain
Straight up good advise here. No sense over-analyzing it, unless it's just an excuse to shoot the breeze (nothing wrong with that, by the way). A good 50cc saw is enough to cut up an occasional 20" tree into firewood.
Snap
ArboristSite Operative
We did that when we built our house but it seemed to get plowed across the street in the winter. Also it made chips in the garage floor so we caved in to blacktop.
Snap
ArboristSite Operative
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Same could be said for husky in regards servicing the autotune saws, but maybe you missed that memo.
For firewood cutting 3-5 cord a yr, a non electronic carb is what I suggest to most.
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Bring it over anytime and we can open the stock opening and retune it.
Probably need to remove the limiters, never messed with that model, but I'm sure it isn't any worse than the others.
Sharp and a chain that's well tuned to the saw/cutting conditions is crucial.
Yea the delivery driver questioned me on that same issue said he never heard of a guy using it for driveway but was the cheapest aggregate I could find. If it's spread thin and gets pushed into the dirt (I have clay) it's pretty good. Anything over 3 rocks deep tends to get pushed around. I went with the 6a because I didn't want to track limestone into the house and a buddy said the asphalt millings/tailings you track that oil in. On a + note the wife and neighbors kids finds all kinds of cool rocks and Petoskey stones in it. Thinking 3/4" minus it's called would be better because it's not all round and locks together better
I will keep that in mind chipper1 THANKS!
Snap
ArboristSite Operative
I just cut down and bucked a 12" maple with my Echo 2511t and it has never skipped a beat. It took a couple hours including moving the agility course obstacles, setting up the tractor and rope to convince it's fall direction, and hauling all the brush to the back of the property. It always starts on the 2nd pull (opposed to my Husquavarna that was always a 20 minute swearing episode), weighs less than a gallon of milk and I never did a thing to it except put in gas and oil and sharpen the chain in the couple years that I've owned it. It's my favorite saw in recent memory.
If it dies at the end of the 5 year warranty, so be it; It's only $80 a year. I just spent that on a tank of gas in the truck.
I strongly believe my father's saying of "buy what you need, not what you want".
The point being, after all the discussions, and I appreciate the opinions, I have put the limit up at the 50cc saw size because it will be most useful for this and future stages of life.
Echo cs 400 is the saw I keep in all my vehicles 14 and 18" bars. Saw never let me down. 18" bar can cut 36" tree guys have said. I like the cases Echo makes for saws, I can keep spare chains bar bar oil quart of gas wedges and hammer in the box.
For sure.
Did you open the 400 up.
I did a 490 for a friend and it helped a lot.
It wasn't fast, but it cut well.
Not yet we have 1 or 2 that a are out of warranty period now. And sweet videos! Thanks for sharing
Bring one over.
I figured those two illustrate well what a budget 50cc saw will do wearing 20"
I'd much rather cut 20" wood with a 70cc saw...
or even better a ported 70cc saw
, but I know we have to make decisions in life.
That stihl makes that saw log look like a hot knife going thru warm butter
Backstage
ArboristSite Operative
Get a spare muffler and do the magic to it. If some dumb unrelated issue crops up for warranty, throw the original on.
