Bucking Saw Suggestions?

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Need suggestions for a saw to buck a couple 20" red oaks in the yard that I will have to make into firewood.
I tried it in the neighbor's on a similar tree with my old Stihl 023 and it took a lot of extra effort with a 16" bar and it was not pulling an 18" well and took much babying, so something a bit stronger is in order.
Weight and vibration are primary concerns second to adequate grunt. It's tough getting old!
Any suggestions would be helpful.
 
Old 372xp or 044. Best of the best 70cc saws ever made, imo.

60cc minimum, ...so perhaps a new echo 590. They are not particularly exciting to run, nor do they handle particularly well, but they get the job done in a workmanlike fashion that is satisfying. They make a good bucking saw with a 20" bar.
 
Need suggestions for a saw to buck a couple 20" red oaks in the yard that I will have to make into firewood.
I tried it in the neighbor's on a similar tree with my old Stihl 023 and it took a lot of extra effort with a 16" bar and it was not pulling an 18" well and took much babying, so something a bit stronger is in order.
Weight and vibration are primary concerns second to adequate grunt. It's tough getting old!
Any suggestions would be helpful.
60cc saws, such as the ms362, not sure of a husky alternative.
sharp chains help too.
 
I would think a top of the line 50cc saw would be what you are asking for. Weight and vibration more important than power. I don't have a 50cc saw currently but my MS251 (45cc with 3/8lp or .325NK chain) would be as good for that size stuff over the 61cc saw I have (assuming you are going to the end of the branches as well). I think a MS261 (50cc "pro") weight the same as my MS251 for the powerhead the bars are likely a bit heavier than my choices. Someone did post vibration levels for Stihl lately, they do go up with cc. Start level at the top rotate saw and move it away from you until the nose of the bar is just about under the far side of the log then bring level and cut straight down.
 
I would think a top of the line 50cc saw would be what you are asking for. Weight and vibration more important than power. I don't have a 50cc saw currently but my MS251 (45cc with 3/8lp or .325NK chain) would be as good for that size stuff over the 61cc saw I have (assuming you are going to the end of the branches as well). I think a MS261 (50cc "pro") weight the same as my MS251 for the powerhead the bars are likely a bit heavier than my choices. Someone did post vibration levels for Stihl lately, they do go up with cc. Start level at the top rotate saw and move it away from you until the nose of the bar is just about under the far side of the log then bring level and cut straight down.
I was hoping for less than the weight of a 60cc which would add a minimum of 2 and maybe 3 pounds to what I am used to using. Echo, Stihl and Husqvarnas in the 50 cc range would be less than a pound more than my 023 and I think be more useful in the future. A 13 pound saw might have to be sold when I finished up but not so with a sub 11 pound saw.

I haven't started looking around to see what is available (judging by the empty shelves in the grocery store I am skeptical).

I would have no issue with a used, older, a bit heavier saw with the intention that it's possibly just an rarely used tool so it would need to be priced accordingly. Times like this I regret giving away my old 038, but it was to a preacher who retired to the woods and heated with wood, so maybe I gained favor in the time to come.
 
Thanks for all of the input.

I think if I buy new it will be on the lower end of the size/weight scale. If something used comes around, I'd make do with larger on the short term use. I have had bigger saws when younger and thought nothing of it, but age has migrated me in the other direction.
One of my favorite local motorcycle racers and shop owner hillclimbed on a big Harley into his 80's. The last time I saw him he was doing his daily 50 laps in his parking lot on a 50cc Moto Guzzi moped at 102 years old. If we are lucky we all make it that far. Working on it for sure.

This job will be winter exercise so being fast is not an objective.

And actually, weight DOES matter where I am in life; It's bending over repeatedly lifting weight. Be thankful if that doesn't get you when your pressing through your 70's.
 
Even my ported 346XP NE is an inferior choice for bucking big wood compared to my 60cc saws. When bucking the weight of a 60cc saw becomes insignificant compared to a 50cc saw so the time factor alone is the trump card.
 
You're looking for +60cc performance from a sub 50cc size saw... OEM, a Husky 346XP is about the most decent saw you can hope to get weighing under 11 pounds. Best comprise I can think of would be a Husky 357/359 with a MM & maybe a bit of porting & the squish band set
 
My guess is this is Fred Marsh. It was a Norton he hillclimed with, at least in his later years.
One of my favorite local motorcycle racers and shop owner hillclimbed on a big Harley into his 80's. The last time I saw him he was doing his daily 50 laps in his parking lot on a 50cc Moto Guzzi moped at 102 years old. If we are lucky we all make it that far. Working on it for sure.
I believe the scenario is a few 20" bark included and tapering down.
 
You're looking for +60cc performance from a sub 50cc size saw... OEM, a Husky 346XP is about the most decent saw you can hope to get weighing under 11 pounds. Best comprise I can think of would be a Husky 357/359 with a MM & maybe a bit of porting & the squish band
No time for fancy tuning but the 550xpt is on the consideration list. The climber is scheduled. Thanks for the thought.
Even my ported 346XP NE is an inferior choice for bucking big wood compared to my 60cc saws. When bucking the weight of a 60cc saw becomes insignificant compared to a 50cc saw so the time factor alone is the trump card.
Your opinion will be considered with the others. There is a definite trend.
Two 20"and less trees- versus the cost of a new lightweight yet powerful saw- versus the cost of paying someone to come buck up said trees with a decent sized saw?
What might not occur to guys who do this for a living, the main objective is the exercise of bucking and hand splitting the trees so I'm not really looking to rip through the job, but rather to not kill a saw doing it.
 
My guess is this is Fred Marsh. It was a Norton he hillclimed with, at least in his later years.

I believe the scenario is a few 20" bark included and tapering down.
Yup, Freddie. I saw him stone faced at Monson on a Harley. I frequented his shop for over 40 years starting in high school, looking for my first bike which always ended up to be Britbikes, not that I didn't covet his Guzzis. Funny how that German Shepard lived 40 years.....or so it seemed.

As for the trees, they were big when we built the house about 40 years ago, so that diameter doesn't seem to change much for maybe the first 40 to 50 feet where the first leaders are. That's maybe half way up. It's actually 66" around at eye level.
 
I do dirt work for a living. It is always a battle between size machine and materials being moved.

Those paying the Bill always want more for less.

A good 50cc saw will make most people happy cutting most wood.

CAD isnt just a chainsaw diseas its a mind frame. I can fabricate needs for saws, welders and digging machines. Smaller is never better or enough
 
What might not occur to guys who do this for a living, the main objective is the exercise of bucking and hand splitting the trees so I'm not really looking to rip through the job, but rather to not kill a saw doing it.
A stock 60cc. saw does not rip through a 20" log. It's a laborious task for a stock 50cc. saw.
 
I do dirt work for a living. It is always a battle between size machine and materials being moved.

Those paying the Bill always want more for less.
Timely response to SawTroll.
Obviously he never bought dirt. I was in the building industry for a lifetime and dirt is never cheap.
 
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