Building a 372xp OE what all do I need?

[lostone]

I know I asked some of this in another thread but I figured this may get some of the builders attn. I plan to use a kit (haven't had much luck finding a OE saw to build on so I bought a farmertec kit) saw with OEM crank/coil/cylinder/piston and use Nachi bearings (I think these are the right ones) with OEM seals/hoses as well as OEM decomp. since I have heard the kit one has issues???

To the builders what specialty tools will I need? guessing something to put bearings into crankcase (althread and washers??) and something to pull the crank into the bearings? I am planning to use Hylomar Blue for gasket sealant. I also have a .013 shim for setting air gap on coil.

What else tool wise should I be looking for?

 

[Ronie]

I put the cases in the oven at 250 degrees and heat them up until I can push the bearing out with my finger then you can drop the new ones in. If you want a tool to pull the crank through the bearing it's part number 502503015.

 

[Ronie]

Don't forget to get the o ring that goes on the clutch side.

 

[lostone]

Don't forget to get the o ring that goes on the clutch side.

Yep, have that on my list. Figured it would get a couple of them and seals just in case I pull a stupid stunt putting it together and then having extra parts

 

[buttercup]

I know I asked some of this in another thread but I figured this may get some of the builders attn. I plan to use a kit (haven't had much luck finding a OE saw to build on so I bought a farmertec kit) saw with OEM crank/coil/cylinder/piston and use Nachi bearings (I think these are the right ones) with OEM seals/hoses as well as OEM decomp. since I have heard the kit one has issues???

To the builders what specialty tools will I need? guessing something to put bearings into crankcase (althread and washers??) and something to pull the crank into the bearings? I am planning to use Hylomar Blue for gasket sealant. I also have a .013 shim for setting air gap on coil.

What else tool wise should I be looking for?

If it's a farmertec the bearings, oil seals and all the small stuff like guide pins and such are already in there when you get it.
Other than that when compiling the crankcase with the crank in it you use the heat/cool trick, crankcase in the owen at some temperature (I'd use 50C) and the crank in the freezer.

 

[buttercup]

Other than that my advice would be to use pressured water to blow those crankcase bearings free of metal spoon followed by 2 stroke motor oil before assembling.

You're in for a treat

 

[buttercup]

On my 038/381 kit I have used original parts for the chain adjuster crown gears, guide bar bolts/nuts and clutch springs. Something to consider - except for the clutch springs on the 372 because they don't fail simply by design I would guess.

 

[lostone]

I had wondered about getting OEM bar studs, I don't want soft studs and have to split it later.

 

[Ronie]

I haven't had or heard of anyone having problems with the bar studs and if one was to strip you put them in through the oil tank, no need to split the case.

 

[lostone]

I haven't had or heard of anyone having problems with the bar studs and if one was to strip you put them in through the oil tank, no need to split the case.

Nice to know that, I figured you had to split the case to get to them.

 

[buttercup]

I had wondered about getting OEM bar studs, I don't want soft studs and have to split it later.

If you have a throw on your crank axle you actually might need to do just that, if you're scared of that I'd suggest adjusting your house loan and get the latest super ss rally gt computerized comfort deluxe boner replacement available ready made.

 

[lostone]

I don't over torque my bar studs but still wasn't to sure on the quality of the bar studs they sent. It's not like they need to be grade 8 unless you know some people like it do that think the tighter you can get the chain and nuts on the cover the better

 

[buttercup]

I don't over torque my bar studs but still wasn't to sure on the quality of the bar studs they sent. It's not like they need to be grade 8 unless you know some people like it do that think the tighter you can get the chain and nuts on the cover the better

True.

 

[Brent Nowell]

I put the cases in the oven at 250 degrees and heat them up until I can push the bearing out with my finger then you can drop the new ones in. If you want a tool to pull the crank through the bearing it's part number 502503015.

This imo is a great way to do it!!

 

[Deleted member 117362]

Dealer here uses map gas to heat cases and install on crank with bearins installed. It works and is quick.

 

[lostone]

Getting closer.

OK, I have:

OEM
Unlimited coil
Piston
Cylinder
Rings
Used Crank
Gasket set
Fuel line
Impulse line
Oil line
HD air filter horn
HD air filter bolt and knob
Seals
O-ring
Hard AV spring set
Intake pipe
Intake pipe clamp

After market:
Nachi C3 bearings
Farmertech kit saw
HD filter cover and clips

Now just to find the time to build the dam thing.

What else should I be looking for? I am considering a Dominant pop up piston, then finding my squish and trying to find a member on here to send my cylinder to and have them take off what I need to get me close to .020 WITH base gasket.

I know it's a lot of money into a kit saw but I want to build it once and build it right and it's not like I'm looking to sell it when done (that's why all the OEM parts) so I don't mind the $$$ at this point. Who knows maybe later send it out for a port job but to be honest if it will get up and cut well with what I have so far I won't bother with the porting.

 

[Huskybill]

I have a 372xp with the top end off a complete saw i a box. I purchased a new assembled engine from huztl I yet to work on itvyet. I think the complete new engine maybe cheaper.

 

[Huskybill]

For the ones who don’t want to split a case.

https://www.huztl.net/Husqvarna-362...nder-piston-crankshaft-crankcase-p226655.html

My plan is to test the huztl engine while I build the orginal 372xp engine,