Building a 560xp

[Jacob J.]

I will say this, the case bolt SB is no bs. With the original bolts, you can not even draw the two halves together without the threads pulling out. Its a joke really. If your saw never needs split, you are good but otherwise....

It sounds like that's a situation where a guy would have to set-up and use the shop press to get the case halves together.

 

[sunfish]

I will say this, the case bolt SB is no bs. With the original bolts, you can not even draw the two halves together without the threads pulling out. Its a joke really. If your saw never needs split, you are good but otherwise....

So, if a guy has an early 562xp, should he worry about the case bolts? Should the bolts be replace/upgraded?

The only issue I've had with mine, is it's cut a lot of wood and is a pleasure to run! :msp_mellow:

 

[srcarr52]

It sounds like that's a situation where a guy would have to set-up and use the shop press to get the case halves together.

With the plastic cages you can't heat the case enough to the point where it will slip together without melting them. A press or some longer case bolts will be necessary.

The ideal way is to pull/press the bearings into the case using the outer race only. Then use the husky tool to draw the crank into the inner race. This has me thinking I should build a new tool to pull the crank into the bearings... off to order some thrust bearings.

 

[mikefunaro]

So, if a guy has an early 562xp, should he worry about the case bolts? Should the bolts be replace/upgraded?

The only issue I've had with mine, is it's cut a lot of wood and is a pleasure to run! :msp_mellow:

In theory the majority of the case bolts are fairly accessible right? Even if you cant get all of them, a little bit of something is probably better than nothing

 

[sunfish]

In theory the majority of the case bolts are fairly accessible right? Even if you cant get all of them, a little bit of something is probably better than nothing

Yeah, I plan to check them soon, just wondering if I need to upgrade the bolts.
Seems I read of a different bolt that was used?

 

[mweba]

It sounds like that's a situation where a guy would have to set-up and use the shop press to get the case halves together.

I'm going to alter my assembly process this time around.

So, if a guy has an early 562xp, should he worry about the case bolts? Should the bolts be replace/upgraded?

The only issue I've had with mine, is it's cut a lot of wood and is a pleasure to run! :msp_mellow:

I would check them, but don't go hammering them down.

Yeah, I plan to check them soon, just wondering if I need to upgrade the bolts.
Seems I read of a different bolt that was used?

I would recommend replacing them if you are already there checking them. Pulling the ignition out of the way and removing flywheel is all that's needed to replace all bolts.

 

[lmbrman]

same as sunfish, my 562 has been trouble free, but i am now curious about the bolts- maybe this was covered in a different thread, but do we know when the bolts were changed over such that a serial number can ID the saws that might be worth swapping out bolts?

great project, thanks !

-dave

 

[huskydude]

What are the differences between the 555 and 562 p/c ?

 

[HEAVY FUEL]

I'm going to alter my assembly process this time around.


I would check them, but don't go hammering them down.

I usually have a few beers to think about it.... Then just start whalin' with the hammer

 

[mikefunaro]

Yeah, I plan to check them soon, just wondering if I need to upgrade the bolts.
Seems I read of a different bolt that was used?

What I read on here was that the original bolts were sort of slick and their finish didn't help to maintain the torque with which they were installed. I guess the replacement bolts are some sort of matte or torque maintaining finish.

I'd think even if you didn't want to do the flywheel you could do most of the rest of them and be better off than you were before.

 

[sunfish]

What I read on here was that the original bolts were sort of slick and their finish didn't help to maintain the torque with which they were installed. I guess the replacement bolts are some sort of matte or torque maintaining finish.

I'd think even if you didn't want to do the flywheel you could do most of the rest of them and be better off than you were before.

Thanks Mike, I'll check it out later today.

My SN is; 2011 4901571

 

[Saw Dr.]

Would you guys please quit posting up threads that actually contain knowledge about chainsaws! Don't ya know it is winter? We are supposed to be arguing about aftermarket cylinders or 441's. :jester::jester::jester:

Since this thread is already ruined, can you please post more info about the Husky case tool you mention for drawing the crank in? I didn't know such an animal existed.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

We can't have a 560xp with an orange case, can we? :yoyo:

Oh he!! yeah The way they should have all been.

 

[mweba]

What are the differences between the 555 and 562 p/c ?

Trans caps

 

[mweba]

Thanks Mike, I'll check it out later today.

My SN is; 2011 4901571

Transition started 2012 1000481 All previous saws had the old screws.

 

[SawTroll]

What I read on here was that the original bolts were sort of slick and their finish didn't help to maintain the torque with which they were installed. I guess the replacement bolts are some sort of matte or torque maintaining finish.
I'd think even if you didn't want to do the flywheel you could do most of the rest of them and be better off than you were before.

Yes, it was about the finish of the screws - the replacement ones are black oxide.

View attachment 269994

 

[srcarr52]

Since this thread is already ruined, can you please post more info about the Husky case tool you mention for drawing the crank in? I didn't know such an animal existed.

There was a thread on it a few months back. I was either a Stihl or Husqvarna tool but I can't find it the thread now, it had a odd title that didn't get much attention.

The basis of the tool was that you would first put the bearings in the case and then you could use the tool to pull the crank into the bearing. The tool threaded onto the flywheel or the clutch threads and then had a separate threaded part that would press against the bearing inner race to pull the crank in.

 

[komatsuvarna]

Id like to see the tool too :msp_smile:. I usually use some heat and they just fall together, done 2 372s lately using heat and it works wonders. Not sure I'd do it with plastic cages though.....

 

[hamish]

There was a thread on it a few months back. I was either a Stihl or Husqvarna tool but I can't find it the thread now, it had a odd title that didn't get much attention.

The basis of the tool was that you would first put the bearings in the case and then you could use the tool to pull the crank into the bearing. The tool threaded onto the flywheel or the clutch threads and then had a separate threaded part that would press against the bearing inner race to pull the crank in.

Pretty much like most Husqvarna case assembly tools.
For the 555-562 pn 502 50 30-23.

 

[Majorpayne]

Id like to see the tool too :msp_smile:. I usually use some heat and they just fall together, done 2 372s lately using heat and it works wonders. Not sure I'd do it with plastic cages though.....

How would it be to put the crank in a freezer and keep the halves warm? I knew a guy that used to spray freon on a shaft to slide a bearing on but that was when freon was cheap.