Burn a saw up using synthetic?

[johnnylabguy]

Just curious. Has anyone ever solely thought using a synthetic oil was the SOLE reason they fried a saw. I'm like my Dad that we're having a hard time changing over since the ole' tried and true has worked so well. We both got some of Bailey's synthetic blend with a chain we bought and are reluctant to try it. Anyone out there pointing a finger at synthetic after they changed?

 

[Jacob J.]

Synthetic oil is the root of all evil, just ask Gary...

 

[Stihlofadeal64]

A friend of mine who worked in a mower/repair shop for years burnt up a Stihl 044 with the synthetic blend. Read the warnings on the Stihl synthetic mix. I advise to tweek the carb if you're going to use it. I've personally been sticking to the HP oil. It has worked so well, and none of my saws have given up due to the mixture. Happy Sawing!

 

[BIGBORE577]

Nope never, I've run it in many saws over 50 years old and over a 100 others at modern mix ratios. Never a problem. Sounds to me like something else was at fault and most likely the mixologist. However, maybe I'm just extremely lucky, although I've never managed to win the lottery which would be of similar odds.

 

[sbhooper]

Here we go again. Synthetic blend is a joke. Either use straight petroleum or straight synthetic. Get off the fence! Legally, a blend only has to have one percent synthetic to be called a blend. It is a waste.

Petroleum and synthetic both work well. Use what you want, but if you blew up a saw, it was NOT the oil's fault whichever you were using.

 

[johnnylabguy]

I guess what I'm wondering is that if you don't retune the saw can any harm be done? I have to admit I haven't read the "oil fighting" threads and that's not my intent.

I'm just wondering if I fill the can next time with a synthetic or a blend do I have to worry about screwing around with tuning the saw. That's why I asked. I like to cut wood and not mess around with a carb in the end.

 

[SpaayDawg]

A buddy of mine used a "FULL SYNTHETIC REPLACES ALL OTHER BLENDS" oil from craftsman at 100:1. He says that $100 saws aren't supposed to last as long as my saws, but then he borrowed one of my dad's and blew it up. Sufficed to say, I was pissed. It's not the oil, but the ratio. If it calls for 50:1, mix 50:1. If it calls for 40:1, mix 40:1. The type of oil does not make a difference for the tuning of the saw, only the ratio.

 

[dingeryote]

I reckon Stihl just wanted to rebuild a couple million saws under warranty when they put Ultra on the market, and the millions of high rpm Motocross bikes that run on synthetic are just a miracle...

Nope.

It's more likely straight gas, or an air leak.


Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Justsaws]

I guess what I'm wondering is that if you don't retune the saw can any harm be done? I have to admit I haven't read the "oil fighting" threads and that's not my intent.

I'm just wondering if I fill the can next time with a synthetic or a blend do I have to worry about screwing around with tuning the saw. That's why I asked. I like to cut wood and not mess around with a carb in the end.

The saw in its current operating condition should be fine switching oil brands and types as long as the ratio of oil to gas is maintained. If you notice that the saw is running differently at all then it should be re-tuned. Examples of differently being idles faster or slower and or runs WOT faster or slower.

If the saw has an excessive amount of carbon build up that could be a problem as switching oil types/brands can "clean" up carbon deposits in the cylinder and if they are severe enough that can lead to scoring. I have seen and experienced the results on mild carbon but have only been shown damaged parts that were attributed to switching oil types/brands.

 

[sbhooper]

You are correct on the carbon issue. I knew a guy one time that switched a blower over to synthetic and killed it. The reason was not the oil, but the carbon that was in the machine from the other crap and broke loose when using the synthetic.

If you have run a good, clean mix, then there should be no problem. I have only heard of the one instance of any problems in all the years that I have dealt with synthetics. Of course, one try was all that guy did. As far as he was concerned, it was the oil.

I have experienced the saw running differently after switching to synthetic. Just retune it a little and you are fine.

 

[teacherman]

I use only Stihl Ultra® with premium non-alky fuel from Shell or Amoco. I have seen black liquid emanating from the exhaust of older saws when using this, and I figure the carbon/calcium deposits are liquefying and leaving the engine. I think that allowed to build up, as fast as the engine is revving, the crud will eventually break off and score the piston anyway, so might as well wash it out with Ultra®.

 

[stihl sawing]

Don't see how, if mine burn up it will be cause i did something stupid, not from the stihl ultra.

 

[Brian S]

I have seen black liquid emanating from the exhaust of older saws when using this, and I figure the carbon/calcium deposits are liquefying and leaving the engine.

I've seen the same thing happening on my old echo trimmer, and my old Mac saws. It dosen't happen on any of my other saws or blower which are all modern and clean inside. I know the trimmer and those saws ran a long time with dino oil but I only use synthetic now. I wondered why this is happening, and I think you're right- the synthetic is cleaning all the old deposits out.

 

[sbhooper]

It will do the same in vehicles. If you have run dino and decide to change to synthetic, you need to flush the engine first. The synthetic will break loose all the crud in the engine and it will fill up your filter pretty fast.

 

[Saw Dr.]

The only problems I have had with synthetic oil is clogged muffler screens.

If you switch over a saw that has been running crap oil to synthetic, the synthetic will clean your engine over time. The carbon has to go somewhere, and that is almost always the muffler screen. Good cure for this is to remove the screen.

 

[GPETER]

It will do the same in vehicles. If you have run dino and decide to change to synthetic, you need to flush the engine first. The synthetic will break loose all the crud in the engine and it will fill up your filter pretty fast.

I lost a cam seal this way. Bought some castrol synthetic on sale and paid for it in the end. I wouldn't bother running synthetic in a 20 year old engine.

This being said all my modern engines run Group IV base oil synthetic.

 

[Jtheo]

I have bought a lot of used saws in the past, and when I fire them up with synthetic at 50:1, they start blowing a lot of smoke.

I assume the piston is getting a much needed cleaning.

 

[Eastexan]

Some questions, if you don't mind.

I have some questions that I have not seen answered before in running synthetic on 2 cycle engines.


Would a new saw need a break in period before using synthetic?

I assume that the syn helps keep the carb as well as the internal engine parts clean, and less wear. Is this correct?

Have you noticed your saw running stronger after using synthetic oil?

When the syn bottle says to use it 100:1, and you follow the instructions that your manual says and use it 50:1, would that be too much oil in the gas causing it not to run as well?

I heard one time that synthetic oil has a high flash point and doesn't burn very well. If that's true, then the formula for 2-cycle engines must be different in that sense.

Thanks

 

[igpoe]

Amsoil Sabre

I've been running Amsoil Sabre at 40-1, 24-1,50-1, and at times 16-1, in my saws ranging from 1945 Mall 6 to 1994 066 Stihl and gotten confused on what I put in both, and is YET to matter as far as I can tell. After ingesting enough Sierra Nevada Pale Ale you kinda forget what mix is what see,so "viva la Sabre"! Not to be confused with "viva la sobre". If my saw has run in the last three years since I've been collecting, it still runs, and is much cleaner inside for having used the synthetic.
Igpoe

 

[Rftreeman]

I'm about 95% sure that synthetic 50:1 was the demise of my 394XP...