Can anybody tell if....

[Diesel JD]

These bow guides will fit my MS390? I haven't decided for sure to bid or not...so if somebody else really wants it I won't be mad...but this seller has a few and he doesn't know which models they will fit. the worry I have is that they might be for the large 051-056, 088 090 mount. Thanks for the help
http://cgi.ebay.com/Stihl-Chainsaw-...ameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem#ebayphotohosting

 

[wagonwheeler]

Have him measure the slot width. 12.1mm (.475") is correct width for the 390 and most every other mid-sized Stihl.

14.0mm is for the 084, 088, etc.

Man does that make mine look ugly...

Chaser

 

[Diesel JD]

I actually think they look pretty cool with the bow guides on. The only thing stopping me before was the lack of a standard mount saw to bolt it on.

 

[Lakeside53]

They may look cool, but are really dangerous... Stihl won't even let dealers sell or fit them to a saw... even though they were made by Stihl in the past.

 

[wagonwheeler]

I actually think they look pretty cool with the bow guides on. The only thing stopping me before was the lack of a standard mount saw to bolt it on.

Wait just a minute there! I meant that the bow you were looking at on ebay made my bow look ugly - (or at least emphasized how ugly it is)!

I've always liked the look of the bow saws. They were normal around here growing up.

Did find out that mine is .063 gauge...

Chaser

 

[Diesel JD]

Andy I know they can be dangerous. They have also been used safely by a lot of people in my area. That doesn't say I can use one safely, but I think I could get the hang of it. I think Stihl doesn't want to expose you guys or themselves to a millions of dollar judgement in case someone does maim or kill themselves with one. Thanks for the warning and it needs to be said,

 

[458_lott]

All of you guys can get the hang of it. You just have to be very careful. I can honestly say that you can buck-up wood two to three times faster with a bow. You cut from a standing position and you never get pinched (well almost never) because you just keep cutting on through. The chain is whirling around very close to your body but always check your chain before starting and keep the bumper spikes where they are supposed to be and you will be fine. Never operate without the top and bottom guards on and make sure you are oiling. This is precisely why I like saws with manual over-ride oilers.

 

[Diesel JD]

Which for me would be very good as I almost always buck wood. I understand the being very careful and insisting on all guards where they need to be, but what does the oiler have to do with safe operation? Concern about the chain breaking being greater? This may be wehre the 390 falls down..it seems not to oil as well as it should sometimes. Thanks,
J.D.

 

[458_lott]

The amount of chain running around a bow is substantial. The cutting surface of the bow has a very hard surface welded to it. Alot of friction. You are pulling a long chain over a long, hard surface. Need to keep that chain well lubed.

 

[wagonwheeler]

Yep, no sprocket and the chain is lying on a lot of bow, not hanging free like on a bar. My dealer 'unofficially' said to run the chain a less taught than a sprocket nose and run the oiler wide open.

Chaser

 

[Diesel JD]

okay thanks guys..wagonwheeler, any luck getting chain guards fabbed for your bowguide? Good luck with that,
J.D.

 

[wagonwheeler]

okay thanks guys..wagonwheeler, any luck getting chain guards fabbed for your bowguide? Good luck with that,
J.D.

Negative. Hadn't been back to my shop in town where all my metal stuff is.

I'd like to see a profile/section of a guard and maybe I could get a scrap aluminum extrusion to do the same. Guess I could also just use some angle and weld some shims to offset it some... wouldn't be fancy, but it should perform.

458lott could you describe the profile dimensions?

Chaser

 

[458_lott]

Flat stock bolts against bow. Guard then angles out about two inches, then straight down about two inches, then a 90 degree back towards the bow (actually crosses under or over the bow depending if it is the top or bottom guard) then up again about 90 degrees on inside of bow (about an inch). Most guards run flush with the clutch housing. There is an angle cut that matches the angle of the clutch cover so there is little space between the clutch cover and the guard. Of the two guards, the bottom is absolutely necessary as the bow can easily get against your thigh. I would run the bow with both guards. If I run only one guard, it is always the bottom one.