Can barely pull starter rope

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roaldeuller

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I have a Stihl 290 ("Farm Boss") which has been used moderately for a couple of years. It has always started reasonably well (most of the time anyway ;-) and I have been happy with it. In particular, when pulling the starter rope, the action has always been smooth and easy, and the engine has turned over without a fuss.

This past weekend, from one pull to the next, the action became very jerky and difficult, such that the rope now can barely be pulled out in a serious of very stiff jerks. I first thought that perhaps the rope had fouled, so I opened up the housing, but the rope was running free and clear, so no problem there. However, when I rotated the now exposed flywheel by hand, there is an extremely stiff section once every revolution, that feels like back-pressure that won't release. So my thinking now is that something is wrong internally.

I am ready to take the saw in to a dealer, but I wondered whether anyone has some thoughts on this problem. Am I missing something painfully obvious?

Thanks in advance!
 
029

This could be several problems, bearings could be worn/wore-out, cylinder could be burned or scored and have aluminum transfer from a piston, Unfortunately until the saw is taken apart the problem likely won't be indentifiable. Check clutch side of the saw first before going to a dealer, look for brake band partially engaged or brake parts broken or worn also check clutch for damage etc... and move brake lever in and out of lock position it could be as simple as it never disengaged properly due to build-up of debris, this is the least expensive initial check. Good luck and let us know outcome.

Doc
 
Take the spark plug out. If the saw doesn't pull over real easy with the plug removed you've got problems. If it does pull over nice and easy you probably have a blocked up exhaust.
 
roaldeuller said:
...when I rotated the now exposed flywheel by hand, there is an extremely stiff section once every revolution, that feels like back-pressure that won't release...


I'm not sure how stiff is too stiff but you aren't just hitting the compression stroke are you? take out the spark plug and try to turn it the same way. If it is still stiff "Houston we have a problem" suspect you might have a broken ring maybe.

Or needle bearing has gone south maybe?
 
thank you for all the excellent advice folks

Thanks everyone, so far this is great and very timely advice.

Just so you know, I did remove the spark plug and could feel just as much resistance as before, which makes me think the problem is in the action of the piston stroke itself.

Also, as for "how stiff is stiff" - it is so stiff that I effectively can't start the saw - it is simply too jerkey and requires too much brute/uncontrolled force on my part to overcome the resistance.
 
Did it sit unused for an unusually long time or was this during/following recent use? Was it old gas mix or fresh?

I had a 440 (albeit squished) that was very stiff like you say, but it had semi-dry lower end from sitting up. Got some lube in there and it freed right up.

I surmised it was jerky in the same spot each time, as you describe, since the lube settled to the lowest point in the bearings and then as it dried out the residue was concentrated there.

Chaser
 
roaldeuller said:
Thanks everyone, so far this is great and very timely advice.

Just so you know, I did remove the spark plug and could feel just as much resistance as before, which makes me think the problem is in the action of the piston stroke itself.

Also, as for "how stiff is stiff" - it is so stiff that I effectively can't start the saw - it is simply too jerkey and requires too much brute/uncontrolled force on my part to overcome the resistance.


Pull the muffler... with the plug out it should almost "freewheel"... trying to start the saw will not achieve anything... even if it starts.
 
wagonwheeler said:
I had a 440 (albeit squished) that was very stiff like you say, but it had semi-dry lower end from sitting up. Got some lube in there and it freed right up.

Chaser

Hey... that saw will rise for the ashes real soon... as a bastard child, with many parents.. but...:D You'll see a thread in a couple of weeks...
 
roaldeuller:
Did you ever find out what the problem was?

My 290 now does the same thing. It ran through a couple tanks of gas last week and then while cutting some wood I put the saw down for 20 minutes while cleaning up some branches. When I went to restart, the rope would barely pull. It feels like I am pulling into a compression stroke then when the saw starts to catch it feels like a backfire and the rope jerks back. I am reminded of hand cranked engines; if you didn't get your hand off the crank you could break your hand on the start.

I'm going to drain the tank and start checking the obvious; but if you have any feedback I'd appreciate it.
 
If it has a tight spot with the plug out look through the spark plug hole and see if it is tight at TDC. If so you may some carbon buildup jamming around the squish band. Stihl has out a decarbonized liquid, mainly for the 4-MIX(R) engines, but it will work to get the carbon out of a 2 stroke as well.
 
I have a Stihl 290 ("Farm Boss") which has been used moderately for a couple of years. It has always started reasonably well (most of the time anyway ;-) and I have been happy with it. In particular, when pulling the starter rope, the action has always been smooth and easy, and the engine has turned over without a fuss.

This past weekend, from one pull to the next, the action became very jerky and difficult, such that the rope now can barely be pulled out in a serious of very stiff jerks. I first thought that perhaps the rope had fouled, so I opened up the housing, but the rope was running free and clear, so no problem there. However, when I rotated the now exposed flywheel by hand, there is an extremely stiff section once every revolution, that feels like back-pressure that won't release. So my thinking now is that something is wrong internally.

I am ready to take the saw in to a dealer, but I wondered whether anyone has some thoughts on this problem. Am I missing something painfully obvious?

Thanks in advance!

I had the same problem; pulling the rope was jerky. I first pulled the plug and verified the piston was working and it DID pull freely. I than pulled the chain/bar cover, and cleaned it up. Note the Clutch was locked up, I then took the cover off the brake just above the clutch and hit the handle brake and heard a click, the clutch was now free! Slapped it all back together and voila it started right up.
Be sure it inspect the break mechanism for broken springs or levers. Easy Do-it-your self Fix!

If at first you don't succeed; try try again.
And I'm A Girl LOL.
 
I had the same problem; pulling the rope was jerky. I first pulled the plug and verified the piston was working and it DID pull freely. I than pulled the chain/bar cover, and cleaned it up. Note the Clutch was locked up, I then took the cover off the brake just above the clutch and hit the handle brake and heard a click, the clutch was now free! Slapped it all back together and voila it started right up.
Be sure it inspect the break mechanism for broken springs or levers. Easy Do-it-your self Fix!

If at first you don't succeed; try try again.
And I'm A Girl LOL.

Pics or it isn't true!!!!! :rolleyes2:

Wow! talk about digging up old threads. Whutz up with all this lately? :laugh:
 
Fish's Offer Looks Good

I will give you $50 bucks for the saw, let me know, and send a pic....
Fish knows what I know. A good mechanic can probably rebuild that engine with new rings and a new piston, clean out the cylinder dome, and it may run after a day of solid work. It may also need a new cylinder. However, you may have other problems as well, and that includes a wrecked crankshaft bearing.

You have a non-running saw and $50 is about all that it is worth. If I were you, I'd take Fish up on his offer unless you want to give it a go yourself. A new MS 290 runs about $400. You can also buy a new one and save this one for parts.
 
Fish knows what I know. A good mechanic can probably rebuild that engine with new rings and a new piston, clean out the cylinder dome, and it may run after a day of solid work. It may also need a new cylinder. However, you may have other problems as well, and that includes a wrecked crankshaft bearing.

You have a non-running saw and $50 is about all that it is worth. If I were you, I'd take Fish up on his offer unless you want to give it a go yourself. A new MS 290 runs about $400. You can also buy a new one and save this one for parts.

Hahaha, Fish's offer is 5 years old! :msp_biggrin:
 
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