Carb adjustment question, for better starting

[StumpThumper]

I've got a Husky 359, still in break in period, I only have a tank or so of gas through it. As the manual says, they are initially set up to run a little rich, which I have confirmed with my tach...wide open I'm running at 13,000 instead of 13,500 RPM (maximum recommended).

The idle is set perfectly, doesn't engage and spin the chain, and the saw will sit there and idle forever if left alone, without stalling.

Only issue I have is it takes a LOT (12-24) of pulls to start the saw (cold start). Procedure is full choke, couple pulls and it will turn over and decomp button pops out. Then choke off (saw now set to fast idle), and push decomp button back in. From here on out it is bunch of pulls, but it eventually starts.

I'm hesitant to mess with the carb screws since things are set up so close right now. Will the starting improve as the saw breaks in? Or should I slightly adjust the low speed screw to get it to start with less pulls? Or would I adjust the idle screw? Which screw to adjust and how...or should I just let it be...thanks!

 

[blackjack]

I'm a recent member to the site and have just purchased a Husky 365 and wanted to begin by saying thank you to all the members that post (both threads issues and resulting replies). The regular and senior members seem like old friends that are willing to share their perspectives on all chain saw issues. From these discussions I've gleaned much information but most of all a deeper appriciation and respect for chain saws and the men that work with them.
So Thump Stumper, congratulation on your purchase and sit back for a wealth of information that will, I'm sure, allow you to make a good, reasoned,decision in correcting your problem.

 

[lostone]

Stump can you pull the choke and set the Husky on high then push the choke back in so you are only on high idle but no choke? My Stihls are setup so you start like you where talking then when it hits the first time I set it to high idle and no choke push the decomp and it starts up from there then a quick hit on the trigger and she drops down to normal.

 

[Lawn Masters]

If its still in the break in period, I'm guessing you should visit the dealer that you got it from, and have them look at it.
I know it should take no more than 5-6 pulls to start the saw cold.

 

[tony marks]

do the new husk still have h-l adjust..if not friend, u gotta learn a whole new way of doing things..
i think most just let an dealer do it..if thats the case, go to the high end dealer whos sent his mechanic to school..hope the fella that sold it to you,was that high end dealer,i mentioned..good luck..ill be watching this post ,with this new stuff,all ive managed to do is keep from giving it a sling..so far..

 

[Fish]

I used to be a dealer
Try backing up the low speed screw, the one closest to the engine, an 1/8
of a turn and see if it improves.
Also take off the air filter and inspect the choke setup and make sure it
is fully choking.

I used to work for a dealer where we set up a new saw by going by the reddish glow of the muffler, but oddly he went out of business.

Seriously, richening up the low speed screw will not hurt to try.

Also replace the plug and verify the gap, and see if that helps the issue, it
might just be that simple.

 

[Lawn Masters]

Ah, I forgot about the spark plug, it may be WAY too large of a gap, which is probably the case, since the engine will run fine once it starts. check that first. it should probably be gapped at something around .020 or .025 but I've had one plug in a BR400 blower that was gapped at soemthing like .050 or something like that, once it started it ran just fine, but it would often flood when you tried to start it, or would flood when shut down.

 

[pbtree]

Stump Thumper and Blackjack, welcome to the site!

Blackjack, congrats on the 365 - I love mine.

I agree with what has alredy been stated - check the plug and see if it is gapped correctly - sometimes they are not set properly on a new saw.

And tweaking the low screw an 1/8 of a turn will not hurt - it might help. If it does not you can always turn it back!

Good luck!

 

[Mange]

I agree with Fish.
But have you tried pulling once, after you take the choke in, before you push decomp valve?

 

[Fish]

So what color of the muffler you guys adjust your saws to?

 

[StumpThumper]

Thanks for all the responses so far. In reply to questions:

lostone - Yes, the Huskys can be set to high idle with no choke. I am actually following the exact same starting procedure as you are with your Stihls...choke, pull until hits (2-3 pulls usually), then no choke but set to fast idle. At this point I would expect 1 or 2 more pulls to start, but it takes a lot more.

tony marks - Yes, my 359 has all three adjustment screws, Hi, Low, and Idle.

Mange - After the saw kicks with choke on, I turn the choke off and set the saw to high idle. However, I always re-push in the decomp button before pulling again. Should I try without re-pushing in the decomp button?

I will check the spark plug gap first, and if that is correct I'll also try backing up the low speed screw 1/8 of a turn. Will 1/8 of a turn out on the low speed screw make the low speed richer or leaner?

 

[brent denny]

Leaner. It might be starving a little on the low speed circuit and that might be why its starting hard. Once it fires on choke, you shoud only have to pull it one or two more times. I think mange is suggesting pulling it without the decompressor on because the higher compression will create more vacuum and draw the fuel quicker. Im sure someone will correct me if im wrong.

 

[Fish]

Richer.

Ignore my joking about the muffler.
Yes, try starting without the decomp valve, also do not forget to ensure
your choke is working properly.

 

[brent denny]

OOPS! Sorry, I didnt read correctly. Turning it OUT 1/8 turn will make it richer. Now maybe my previous post will make sense.

 

[brent denny]

Hey Fish, do you have any timed cut figures on your fisherized eager beaver/wild thing? Not trying to start any trouble, just curious.

 

[StumpThumper]

Got it. Backing a screw out (turning counter-clockwise) richens (more gas) the air/fuel mix. Turning a screw clockwise leans (more air) the air/fuel mix.

 

[brent denny]

Bingo. The problem is when you cant turn the screw far enough one way or the other because of the limiter tabs on the adj. screws. That is an easy fix, though.

 

[MacDaddy]

Do you have pictures of the eager beaver I would like to see it

 

[Fish]

No, I haven't found anyone quick enough with a stopwatch!

 

[Fish]

I tried taking a pic of it once, but I could not fit the Kenworth muffler in the
frame. I tried one off of a Peterbuilt, but it was too heavy.