carb cleaning...serious business.

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Bowtie

Gearhead
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Do any of you guys use any kind of dip for cleaning stubborn carbs? My 361 is giving me fits, and I have it traced to the carb. Damn thing dont want to idle right and wont tune in on idle circuit and stay put, it tends to flood out and run choppy JUST on the idle circuit. It never floods and wont restart.

I really dont want to spring for a new carb, and was wondering if any of you have had any sucess with anything out of the ordinary.
 
Do any of you guys use any kind of dip for cleaning stubborn carbs? My 361 is giving me fits, and I have it traced to the carb. Damn thing dont want to idle right and wont tune in on idle circuit and stay put, it tends to flood out and run choppy JUST on the idle circuit. It never floods and wont restart.

I really dont want to spring for a new carb, and was wondering if any of you have had any sucess with anything out of the ordinary.

Give Ed Ritchey a holler. I think he's experienced problems something like this with 361s.
 
Will do Brad, thanks for the heads up. Heck, I even did a vac/pressure test on it just because I can, and no problems there. Also pressure tested the carb to .8 bar, as per service manual. I love this saw, but its getting on my nerves...:angry:
 
I'll give cleaning three tries then it's new carb time. I have had persistence pay off, but figure the time involved and a new carb is pretty cheap ;)

I don't think they make the old carb cleaner in a gallon bucket with the dip tray anymore. Back in the 80's that stuff really worked. I would be interested in hearing if anything is more effectinve than the spray can of Gumout Carb Cleaner?
Dok
 
I hate to imigane what a new 361 carb is, I can snag a used one off ebay for 26$ +6.50 shipping, and gamble.
 
Just use CRC Brake Clean. An ultrasonic cleaner is best.


Pressure test on a carb tells you little.. just that the inlet side is holding pressure. Are your welch plugs all tight? Does your L check valve leak (tricky to test... you need a rubber piece to press onto the valve...? Oh, if it is your L check valve, toss the carb.


Is your "puddle-drain" (bore below the cylidner inlet) blocked or non-existent?


Did you prove it was the carb by replacing it with a known-good unit?
 
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I don't think they make the old carb cleaner in a gallon bucket with the dip tray anymore. Back in the 80's that stuff really worked.

Yeah I know--I wish I could find that stuff with the dip tray again.......


I would be interested in hearing if anything is more effectinve than the spray can of Gumout Carb Cleaner?
Dok

I use Wal-Mart brake cleaner with a dip tray made from old coffee cans--one is smaller than the other, the small one I drill holes in it--use the same setup to clean the resizing wax off my brass.......

Thoroughly spray the carb with a couple cans of brake cleaner, with the carb body in the dip tray,then drop the tray down and soak the parts.

Of course, I have an old 10-10 that is giving me carb fits at the moment--I'm about to tear it down for the third........and maybe the final time.......:bang:


Casey
 
It's too bad that R-11 has become a thing of the past. That stuff was an ideal carb cleaning solvent.
 
Just use CRC Brake Clean. An ultrasonic cleaner is best.


Pressure test on a carb tells you little.. just that the inlet side is holding pressure. Are your welch plugs all tight? Does your L check valve leak (tricky to test... you need a rubber piece to press onto the valve...? Oh, if it is your L check valve, toss the carb.


Is your "puddle-drain" (bore below the cylidner inlet) blocked or non-existent?


Did you prove it was the carb by replacing it with a known-good unit?

Are your welch plugs all tight? Dont know

Does your L check valve leak I really hoped to not tear that far into it.

Is your "puddle-drain" (bore below the cylidner inlet) What the hell is that?

Did you prove it was the carb by replacing it with a known-good unit? That is the next step, I have cleaned the hell out of the carb, replaced the seals on the idle screws, etc,...
 
Unless you have a gunky carb with old gas... cleaning a carb has little effect... modern fuel filters let little though. Fresh gas is a pretty good cleaner.

The only way to conclusively prove it is the carb is to replace it with a known to be good unit...
 
they still make it.

I'll give cleaning three tries then it's new carb time. I have had persistence pay off, but figure the time involved and a new carb is pretty cheap ;)

I don't think they make the old carb cleaner in a gallon bucket with the dip tray anymore. Back in the 80's that stuff really worked. I would be interested in hearing if anything is more effectinve than the spray can of Gumout Carb Cleaner?
Dok

i get it at advance auto.come in a 1 gallon paint can.basket is included inside.

yamaha makes a great product but it has to be mixed 50/50 with water and heated up.i always use a hot plate i stole from a drug induced liberal hippies from Madison Wisconsin.
 
Unless you have a gunky carb with old gas... cleaning a carb has little effect... modern fuel filters let little though. Fresh gas is a pretty good cleaner.

The only way to conclusively prove it is the carb is to replace it with a known to be good unit...

I agree, Im gonna get a different carb. anyone have a 361 carb?. I hate to gamble on ebay...
 
And here comes the reaper!!!!
That 044 runs twice as well, cuts better, and weighs about the same. HMMMMMMMMMMMMM.
 
And here comes the reaper!!!!
That 044 runs twice as well, cuts better, and weighs about the same. HMMMMMMMMMMMMM.

Good point, that 044 is a humdinger of a saw, but its about fixing the problem at this point, I cant stand giving up, know what i mean?
 
use carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or starting fluid.(they are basically the same) use the straw and shoot out each port in the carb, all the little holes. if any of the gaskets are stiff, which they shouldnt be on a newer saw like a 361, you need a carb kit. you might want to check your impulse also.
 
use carb cleaner, brake cleaner, or starting fluid.(they are basically the same) use the straw and shoot out each port in the carb, all the little holes. if any of the gaskets are stiff, which they shouldnt be on a newer saw like a 361, you need a carb kit. you might want to check your impulse also.

done all that stuff already.
 
The Mac CP125S I just got had sat for MANY years with fuel in it.. The fuel line was dissolved and the SDC20 carb was full of molassis.. Pulled it apart and soaked it in Berryman Chem dip for 6 hours.. Carb looks and works like new...

Rick
 

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