Carb leak

[J D]

REJOICE, MY BROTHERS! WE ARE VICTORIOUS!

The issue was the new valve needle lever part from the rebuild kit. The pump/fuel intake would hold vacuum (so pump seal check valves ok), but NO pressure. If I took off the lever and spring and just held the needle down with my finger, it sealed perfectly. Put the old lever back on, 100% seal. Saw starts right up. For some reason, the new lever wasn’t allowing the needle to go down far enough to contact the seat.

Canceled the new carb, (saves me $90+) but I still got a new inlet pipe on order because one of the screw holes is stripped out. I suspect we still have an air leak there after the carb.

For anyone in the future reading this, the video below REALLY helped as well as all the help I received in this thread. THANKS GUYS!

Glad you got it sorted... Both youself & a bunch of others who read this down the track will be better off for your perseverance!
For what it's worth, a leaky main nozel (as a result of fuel line pressure) is pretty much always the metering system leaking. The nozzle check valve is only there to prevent back flow (from the venturi into the carb) & generally just causes tuning & running issues

 

[Captain Bruce]

There is merit in learning, especially hands on, making mistakes and learning from those, which makes it easier to remember (been there done that kinda situations).
There is also merit in learning, or just recapping ideas, by reading along in discussions with other people chatting about their learning process, like it is for me in this discussion. Imho that's pretty much the basic idea around a forum like this, isn't it? It's fantastic that we have these tools (forum) today to exchange ideas with (more experienced) colleagues and learn from one another.
If we'd all just throw new parts at will at any problem that we can't get our head around and don't chat/ask about it, chances are we die as dim-witted as born...
From me +1 for this discussion - thanks to OP and all involved!

Understood. You enjoy the ****-chat part of working on a machine. Maybe just fix the chainsaw, and move on to the next project, without detailing numerous steps, each and all a complete waste of time. The learning process when it applies to chainsaws, starts with reading the manual front to back, and having a printed IPL on the bench. At some point, your minor issue is solved, and you taught yourself. Now thats learning. and without the ****-chat.

 

[thenne1713]

455 Ranchers. Worked on a thousand. Mostly solving the oil leak. So, is there any good reason to NOT simply buy another carb? Seems like you are "trusting" so much, when replacing parts to solve the problem, is the end game. Get a carb, return it if there is no change, after you replace the entire fuel system, including cap and vent. Thats about 40 bucks...and you are spending 10 x that in personal time.....for a simple fix, on a chainsaw...maybe you just like to chat?

Capt Bruce, YOU worked on thousands of 455 for oil leak???? What was approach/ solution when oil pump mounting screw hole stripped in the plastic?

 

[Backstage]

If we’re going to change the topic to finger pointing or oil leaks, please start a new thread either way.