carbide problems

[heffayinthebush]

I wanna know what to do with a couple loops of expensive (carbide tipped) chain I recently bought online.

They were working great for a couple of days until suddenly 5 of the carbides decided to part their way from the rest of the chain.

I was cutting some dry firewood logs (maple mainly, ash, oak etc.) a little dirty and frozen but nontheless good solid hardwood.

I sent the chain back to the seller hoping for a refund or replacement, meanwhile he asks me if I was cutting into rocks or binding the chain.... Give me a break! I think I know what I'm doing!

What do I do now with other loop? Should I try cutting with it and risk wrecking it also?

How do I sharpen it?

Suggestions wood be appreciated!

Heff
firewood.ca

 

[TimberPig]

Try searching for carbide chain on this site. You will soon find that the opinion of it isn't very high. Its intent is for firefighting where roof vents need to be cut and nails and asphalt shingles might be encountered. It cuts slower than regular chain, the cost is prohibitive, and is vulnerable to damage like you experienced. Needing a diamond grinding wheel to sharpen it just seals the deal. For general wood cutting, it doesn't work very well.

 

[Rotax Robert]

Try and sell it to your local fire department. It is'nt made for cutting firewood. Its primary use is in ventilation on burning buildings. As for sharpening it, a normal grinding wheel will not even touch the carbide.

How much did you pay?

 

[computeruser]

TimberPig nailed it. Well done.

 

[heffayinthebush]

Hey Fellas,

This chain was cutting great. I had lots of power-Stihl 660, 2 days bucking, 20-25 cords?

Conventional chain had me sharpening 2-3 times a tankful because of the dirt.

I would recommend it to folks in my same position, but not if this chain has a self-desrtuction problem.

Thanks for all advice.

Heff

P.S. Is the Lame-bert still alive?

 

[TimberPig]

I'm going to guess that you were running chisel chain ni that dirty wood. It's not surprising that it was getting dull. It is very vulnerable to damage in those conditions. Semi-chisel is more durable when cutting dirty wood, but not as expensive as carbide, easily sharpened and nowhere near as vulnerable to damage as carbide or chisel chain. The cutting speed in clean wood is slightly slower than chisel, but faster than carbide. Try some RM or DP chain, it will likely give you the best of both worlds, more durability than chisel, better cutting and less cost than carbide.

 

[TimberPig]

Oh, and Gypo is still around as far as I know, he was on and posted a couple things yesterday or the day before.

 

[Diesel JD]

Some people really swear by carbide, but it seems to be excessive for the firewood cutter. I say if you've got it, run it...I'm assuming this is the RAPCO carbide chain. It is really designed for cutting very hard, dirty wood, reams of paper, railroad ties and treated poles. No nails or rocks! You could also buy the cheaper and less vulnerable injecta sharp carbide from Baileys.

 

[Lakeside53]

I bet you shocked the carbide tips and it broke off... Hard wood, frozen, - just like hitting rocks. A 660 can break the brazing easily.. There is no warranty on carbide chains for this reason. You have to take it real easy in the cut, and rock, hard wood, shocking the chain, etc will knock the tops of - it's very brittle.

You can sharpen it with a diamond wheel. I done a few - takes a while but it's no problem. The chain can be repaired by Rapco in Vancouver Washington (if it's their chain) for about $2-3 per broken cutter.

Carbide work great when you need it - dirty stumps, railway ties,mMarine use on encrusted pilings docks etc, but is no substitute for normal chain otherwise. There are many different profiles with carbide - did you have one for hard/frozen wood?