Carburetor Help Needed

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apn73

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Hello All,
I tried to start up my Stihl MS-361 for the first time in over year today, and couldn't keep it running. It started with no issues, would even run on the mid-choke high idle for pretty long periods time, but it wouldn't idle long before it stalled. Sometimes it would idle and I would have good throttle response for a bit, and then stall. One time while I had it running on high idle, and it was running perfectly, it just stalled out again. There isn't really a pattern to it, it's just doing whenever, and it won't run long enough to do any cutting.

The saw is 9 years old, was produced in mid-2007, and I wasn't as vigilant as I should have been with keeping the ethanol out of the carb. I wouldn't be surprised if that neglect finally caught up to me. I believe, and correct me if I'm wrong, it uses a Walbro HD 34A. Is there a site sponsor out there that sells the OEM rebuild kits for these? Is there another reason that the saw is running this way?
Thanks in advance,
Adam.
 
I just went through the same problem with my MS361 with a Walbro HD34A carb. I put in a K10-HD kit and it didn't help. It would run good for a little bit and then not start and I'd have to tune it all over again. I thought I had an air leak as the saw would run away and then quit but a pressure and vacuum check showed everything was okay. I ended up going with an Ebay direct from China carb for $14 with free shipping. This replacement carb fixed all of my issues for the last couple of months since it has been installed. I think the problem with the HD34A was the fuel pump circuit which wore out the bore. I deleted it based upon guidance on this website and it helped a little but the carb still would never stay stable in the settings. I would go with the K10-HD kit and then if no improvement, go to the Ebay route for the lowest cost option.
 
I just went through the same problem with my MS361 with a Walbro HD34A carb. I put in a K10-HD kit and it didn't help. It would run good for a little bit and then not start and I'd have to tune it all over again. I thought I had an air leak as the saw would run away and then quit but a pressure and vacuum check showed everything was okay. I ended up going with an Ebay direct from China carb for $14 with free shipping. This replacement carb fixed all of my issues for the last couple of months since it has been installed. I think the problem with the HD34A was the fuel pump circuit which wore out the bore. I deleted it based upon guidance on this website and it helped a little but the carb still would never stay stable in the settings. I would go with the K10-HD kit and then if no improvement, go to the Ebay route for the lowest cost option.
Disappointing to read that the HD34A has it's flaws and I hope I don't have to go that route, but it sounds like we're having the same issue. Thank you for the information, I'll try the kit.
 
could your fuel filter be gummed/clogged?
reason i ask is just cause you mention it's been sitting for a while
during that time the volatile part of whatever fuel mix was left in it has evaporated and only the goo remains
could be gum/goo in the filter/lines/carb itself
if it ran fine last year when you shut it down, then probably nothing mechanical wrong with the carb - just stopped up
jmho
 
It is important to remove the needle/lever/spring, and ensure that the passage underneath is totally clear, it gets partially clogged with gunk and varnish, and most folks skip this step, to avoid dealing with the tiny spring/parts.
 
could your fuel filter be gummed/clogged?
reason i ask is just cause you mention it's been sitting for a while
during that time the volatile part of whatever fuel mix was left in it has evaporated and only the goo remains
could be gum/goo in the filter/lines/carb itself
if it ran fine last year when you shut it down, then probably nothing mechanical wrong with the carb - just stopped up
jmho
I was going to try that next because it's easy and quick, but I'm not holding my breath that that is the magic fix. Could be though.
 
It is important to remove the needle/lever/spring, and ensure that the passage underneath is totally clear, it gets partially clogged with gunk and varnish, and most folks skip this step, to avoid dealing with the tiny spring/parts.
Thanks HarleyT, good stuff.
 
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