Caution on wot out of wood on new strato"s

[Slamm]

I've got a few 441 crm's and they are cold hearted #####es. They turn over easy, but they all die when you give them some throttle and need to be re-started. The start procedure isn't so straight forward as you might think. On non M saws I would usually go full choke, pull until it bights (2 or 3 pulls), then half choke and one pull starts. From there, click the throttle to idle, let the saw warm up for 3 seconds or so, start giving it some throttle progressively and then get to work. Depends on weather too.... if its cold I'll let the saw warm a little longer.

The M saws are weird. They only have a 3 position switch; off, start and run. I don't really understand the mechanics of how the choke works with 'start', but I figured that you want to get onto run once the saw is started. Maybe I'm wrong. They start easy enough, but if you click them off 'start' and on to 'run', then they die. So much for autotune. If you leave them on start, they die sometimes too. I find you've got to start them on start, take the chain brake off and run them hard at full throttle for 20 seconds or so. Then they idle and run just fine.

Am I doing it wrong?

Shaun

Not sure what is either happening or you aren't figuring out.

You push the switch all the way down/choke start the 441CM, should be two pulls if ran in the last week. It will start and run roughly .......... let it run for maybe 2-5 seconds and either pull the trigger firmly or flip the switch up to the run position, and begin cutting wood.

Now if you have let it sit there and idle until it died with the switch done on the choke setting for sometime near a minute then you have allowed the saw to program itself incorrectly, as this is what you do when you want it to tune itself, except you should not have the bar and chain on it. So its very likely that you have allowed it to program itself incorrectly, and therefore you are getting the resulting idling problems.

I retune my Mtronics during temperature changes when I'm swapping the bars around or replacing a chain. It only takes one minute and it makes a noticeable difference during temperature if it was off to begin with.

Sam

 

[blsnelling]

I haven't found the 441, MTronic or not, not to be any more cold natured than any other.

 

[hamish]

Not sure what is either happening or you aren't figuring out.

You push the switch all the way down/choke start the 441CM, should be two pulls if ran in the last week. It will start and run roughly .......... let it run for maybe 2-5 seconds and either pull the trigger firmly or flip the switch up to the run position, and begin cutting wood.

Now if you have let it sit their and idle until it died with the switch done on the choke setting for sometime near a minute then you have allowed the saw to program itself incorrectly, as this is what you do when you want it to tune itself, except you should have the bar and chain on it. So its very likely that you have allowed it to program itself incorrectly, and therefore you are getting the resulting idling problems.

I retune my Mtronics during temperature changes when I'm swapping the bars around or replacing a chain. It only takes one minute and it makes a noticeable difference during temperature changes if it was off to begin with.

Sam

Believe alot has to do with the regional differences in temperature you both experience. Will find a Sthil Manual as MTronic saws up here a very few and far between, but the the AT system there are still provisions for use in colder weather, like a flap/shroud to allow engine heat to enter the carb area (hell even my 026 had it) and it does make a difference.

I was out cutting this past sunday and it was -16C (so about 0 Farenheit), my 2152 with a heated carb and the flap open took a few minutes of idling to be competant to cut. Was kinda wishing I had added heated handles after a few hours of work.



Be mechnically sympathetic, let things warm up a little before you decide it should push it self to 13+k.

 

[almondgt]

Went to a tech update this week. Irregardless of brand, on the latest strato's you want them to warm up 30 to 45 seconds because of the longer piston skirts, want them to warm up evenly.

They warned us to advise customers never to run saws WOT out of the wood (no load) longer than 10 seconds or you can start damaging your saw, they hace tested other saws beside Stihl and the same results occurred.

So for those who like to hold them wot out of the wood for extended periods you are just setting yourself up for damage.

Manufacturers need to print this information in the operators manuals that accompany new saws...........

 

[SawTroll]

Went to a tech update this week. Irregardless of brand, on the latest strato's you want them to warm up 30 to 45 seconds because of the longer piston skirts, want them to warm up evenly.

They warned us to advise customers never to run saws WOT out of the wood (no load) longer than 10 seconds or you can start damaging your saw, they hace tested other saws beside Stihl and the same results occurred.

So for those who like to hold them wot out of the wood for extended periods you are just setting yourself up for damage.

Forgot to say in earlier post; Actually that warm up time still is well on the short side imo, regardless if it is a strato or not. I like to make some cuts as well, before I put a tach to the saw, but that isn't always practical.

The max 10 seconds rule has "always" been there, but I feel it is a stretch, and more than needed....

 

[Termite]

I have noticed no difference in the starting of my 576AT ,cold or hot, than any of my other saws. I always let my saws get a little heat in them before I start cutting. I do the final tune on a saw only after making several cuts and everything is in normal operating conditions.
There have been a few saws that have given me fits trying to tune by ear. Then I use a tach to double check.
I try to keep the WOT no load to a minimum. Just the way I do it.

 

[mile9socounty]

Maybe thats why the company I work for has already toasted 5, MS362's since Oct.

 

[zogger]

Manufacturers need to print this information in the operators manuals that accompany new saws...........

I think based on all the borked saws anecdotals here, that most people dont read the operators manuals at all anyway. Yes, should be printed in there, wont make much difference.

Dull chain means push harder! Those two tanks on the saw, well, just about any liquids should work, just fill em up! Well...Im a bubba! That means I can fix anything with this here screwdriver and turning screws at random!