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memory

memory

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For those that bought the cbn wheels to sharpen chains, was it worth it? I have the Oregon 511a grinder and considering buying these. Is there a certain brand to stay away from? Do they sell these at any actual stores? Any ideas how many chains you can sharpen with these wheels? I know there are alot of variables.
 
Yes!

A lot less dust & in my opinion, sharper chains

Bought mine from an industrial sharpener co in Wisconsin, can't remember the name offhand, but if I look through my old emails I may find it.

Have never seen a CBN wheel in a saw shop. I have seen a couple ads on CL for used wheels though.
 
nixon said:
I’ve been using them for about 8 years on a USG . Got mine from Diamond Wheel Inc . Wish they made a raker wheel to fit the USG .
Click to expand...
Wish my experience with the Diamond CBN wheel on my USG was the same.
The cutters look great, but the cutting is so slow that it is difficult not to burn them.
I've been told that there are batches of wheels like this out there, and it looks like I got one of the dogs.
 
stihlaficionado said:
Yes!

A lot less dust & in my opinion, sharper chains

Bought mine from an industrial sharpener co in Wisconsin, can't remember the name offhand, but if I look through my old emails I may find it.

Have never seen a CBN wheel in a saw shop. I have seen a couple ads on CL for used wheels though.
Click to expand...
LM sharpening wheels 1 877 871 9867 fax 1 218 758 2297
I have a bunch of Larry,s wheels and they are the best quality and are applied to steel
 
Definitely worth it. Got mine from Bailey's. Have had them 10+ years and have sharpened hundreds of chains with them. Typically sharpen 100-150 each winter. Make sure the chains are clean before hitting them with the wheel, it helps not having the sap on the chain etc. It's a fine art to get the setting you want and how you want the chain to cut in the end. Light, gentle strokes until you see how the chain reacts, not all chains are made the same. Some heat up quicker than others causing the temper of the chain cutter to weaken if not done properly.
Get a wheel for each size you have and especially one for the depth gauges.
 
Ty all for the info. I noticed some say to make sure to get one for the rakers. Why so important to have one for rakers? I mean you are taking very little off the rakers vs the teeth.
 
You can do the depth gauges by hand but if you're doing a lot of chains, it makes it a breeze to do it with the wheel. 2-3 light taps with it on the depth gauges is usually enough to get it to it's correct and safe depth.
It also depends on how much of the cutter you're taking off. If the chain(s) are pretty messed up, it means more will need to be taken from the depth gauges. What I do is sharpen all the "like" chains (same pitch) before swapping out the wheel for another size. I then have a bundle of chains that just need the depth gauges hit. Goes pretty quick then.
That's my preferred method bc I sharpen so many chains at a time and using the wheel that corresponds to the depth gauges is well worth it
 
rwoods said:
I use a Dinasaw abn/cbn wheel. I wish the grit were finer, but I wouldn’t trade it for a standard wheel.
Ron
Click to expand...

You wouldn't like it with a finer grit.
Much faster to burn.

I have several from numerous manufacturers in 5 3/4 and 8"
I like the Foley-Belsaw 60-80 grit the best.
 

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