Chain Cuts to the right side

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560Dennis

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I have a Huskavarna 550 xp . That has consistently cut to the right heating up the bar .
im not sure why.
ive had to replace the bar .
ive replaced four or five chains .
the oiler pump locked it up when it failed ,it was replaced under warranty .
photo is of the maple and the linden I’m cutting now .
talked to husky to day told them all the above they said could be the sprocket . I don’t see anything wrong with sprocket .
Don’t know what to do ?
 

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If you are using a new Chain and Bar then you must be torqueing/ twisting the saw in the cut. Try to use less force on the front handle bar, let the saw feed its self.
 
I tried it
If you are using a new Chain and Bar then you must be torqueing/ twisting the saw in the cut. Try to use less force on the front handle bar, let the saw feed its self.
it worked much better , switched the grip to the side vertical grip and let the saw cut ( fall) through
 
If you are using a new Chain and Bar then you must be torqueing/ twisting the saw in the cut. Try to use less force on the front handle bar, let the saw feed its self.
 

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Heres how it looks after sharpening with husky filer. I haven’t tried it yet ,home alone ,wife went to store to get pork chops .
I never cut alone at my age .
 

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That's your new bar?
Did you check to make sure you have enough oil coming out?

Doesn't seem to have the "curve" of an unequal sharpened chain.

Is your sprocket lined up with the bar?
Does your chain move side to side if you try by hand to wiggle it in the bar ?
 
That's your new bar?
Did you check to make sure you have enough oil coming out?

Doesn't seem to have the "curve" of an unequal sharpened chain.

Is your sprocket lined up with the bar?
Does your chain move side to side if you try by hand to wiggle it in the bar ?
Yes that is the new bar .
the oiler reservoir is empty out every fuel change , can see oil log cutting rounds
sprocket turns free and the chain does easy tracking bay hand.
Yes the chain moves
 

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New bar on saw and old bar on driveway.
I don’t see any issues with sprocket ,do you ? It moves on splines
 

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If you are using a new Chain and Bar then you must be torqueing/ twisting the saw in the cut. Try to use less force on the front handle bar, let the saw feed its self.
Your advice about twisting the saw is done the most to make the saw cut much better .
However ! For me it does not matter if the left hand grips the bar and right hand is on throttle grip this saw as enters a horizontal log on the ground . My grip want to rotate the saw bar clockwise . The further that I cut the depth the left hand is rotating the saw bar clockwise the further I go. I’ve tried to really loosen my grip and let the saw .
I don’t know if it a bad habit from using the McCullough 2014 . Or it’s the ergonomics of the front bar in the left hand .
Its frustrating , I convince its my grip and the how saw entering the log is turning
 
Ideally you should be dogged up to the log, right hand holding the saw rear handle and your left on the handle resting there. I've even seen people with one hand only holding the saw momentarily while cutting big wood. Let the saw do the work, you should have to influence it while making a vertical cut. For a new bar, their ain't much paint left... have you cleaned your bar groove, and is their a bur on the rails?
 
Make sure bar guide rails flat / squared across to each other as a base.
Make sure no metal rolled over rail to outside , this rolled metal can get wider than kerf and hang in kerf.
>>prefer squared flat to side of bar, then less a tad at angle on outside
>> conceivably to fill with metal roll over
Also, make sure bar pure flat so doesn't hang in kerf.
.
Then make sure teeth on either side of chain grab/eat equally from this squared base.
Look for saw to pull to side cutting faster/deeper, as like fastest oar in water.
Light, but controlled hands on saw as noted, pivoting on bumper spike; allow saw to work.
Drive sprocket wear etc. can give other problems but completes drive train.
.
Replacement as a set sometimes best, so ill worn chain from ill bar, doesn't then wear new bar ill-ly to bring full circle (to include drive sprocket) back to same fail like is contagious! Educate eye, Visual Inspection for metal wear and mating transfer is key, and then square geometries also. Oil delivery is key to less wear, and not losing temper to heat, clean bar pulling away from any sprocket nose then both side oil ports. Before install run saw and make sure oil pumps w/o bar.
Flip bar anytime off saw for evener wear.
Assume bar won't remate same and could block oil delivery with crud, clean bar guide and oil ports whenever bar comes off saw, think 'sanitary' in the machining sense.
 
New bar on saw and old bar on driveway.
I don’t see any issues with sprocket ,do you ? It moves on splines
In the second pic, the cutter closest to the sprocket looks dull on the tip. I also don't like the curve on the cutting edge.
 

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