Chain does not go in bar

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jcquade

ArboristSite Member
Joined
Dec 26, 2022
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Location
17575 n old number 7, sturgeon, mo 65284
Had an odd situation today. Saw relatively new. Original chain. Before I went out cutting I cleaned the bar groove. To get all the debris and sawdust Etc out of it. I also greased the tip. It is an echo bar. I want to cut on a very large stump that was honey locust. And as I was cutting the chain basically stopped. I stopped the saw. And it was rather hard to even pull out of the groove. When I went back to put it in the groove it would not fit easily. And it definitely did not rotate when I pulled on either side. So I gave up came home. I pulled out a brand new chain and put it on the bar and slides as smooth as butter. My theory I'm asking about is perhaps when I was sawing the stump I did not straight and I tweaked the chain somehow and messed up the part that goes into the chain groove. Anyone ever have this happen?
 
My bet is on the fact your cutting the stump, caught some debrits, that then burred one of the drive links, and or bent it.

Have a close look at it, file off any burrs, put it in a vice to remove any bend etc.
Pics would help too.
Often happens when you throw a chain, that messes the drive links and they wont sit back in the bar groove till you have filed away the damage.

hope that helps.
 
Breaking problem into parts does a new or section of old links. This could be scuffed or bent drive links into bar from that side of this marriage and/or narrowed or bent bar side of marriage.
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The work is so hard, everything without work must be silky smooth riding on thin film of oil. Arcs of nose and drive are of particular interest too.
 
This all makes a lot of sense. Thanks to all. I did do a bar clean out and found a lot of sawdust. Odd to me as I just cleaned it. I tossed the chain. I will need to examine the bar closer foray burrs.
As a homeowner, spending an extra $20 on an oregon chain that is straight is much simpler than fixing the old one. The chain should last 6 months for as much as I cut and use it.
 
Great!
i have kinda reshaped thin cheap linoleum knife to clean / take back to spec groove by pulling around laser nose down each side or away from sprocket nose each side and sharpened tip in knife to clean like entrance port each side. Kinda re spec any time take apart. Simply give system every chance to move effortlessly on a visible pumped oil thru clean port to clean groove for confidence in oil film to ride.
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Bar goove can pinch close some, links can get scuffed to seem like same issue.

Drive sprocket takes lots of wear and can wear links on new chain, then they can wear new sprocket as chase back and forth etc. Sometimes must replace both chain/sprocket to get clear of sequential problems of deformed metal deforming new etc.
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Good to have 1 model or brand that use same sprocket/chain/bar to swap single part pair and see if problem: stays on same saw, follows part, clears or on a real bad day ; dupes.
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Saw mite only go so far into wood if bent bar or 1 side or longer/sharper links where is like row boat only padding 1 side so catches as curves into cut. Similar problem/ but different cure is to file metal rolled over side of rail from chain running and bar gets wider spots by just a hair. Can rasp rolled side metal and resquare tops of rails , to make sure chain sits straight.
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These saws do such a tough job is best to get good at getting back to Zer0 as much as can, to allow them a fair fightin' chance/ tip the odds their way. Usually clean at shop with air when can; know your gear and allow it to take care of you!
 
I literally had a similar issue two days ago. I was in my glory ripping through logs with my Dolmar 7900 when I tried cutting at an angle and as the tip of my 28" bar hit the wood, the chain flipped off. After looking at the all the possibilities why my chain wasn't turning, the problem ended up being four chipped/gouged drive links (my bar was not pinched). As far as I have learned, all I need to do is file down the problem areas, reinstall the chain and see if it turns freely.
 
I literally had a similar issue two days ago. I was in my glory ripping through logs with my Dolmar 7900 when I tried cutting at an angle and as the tip of my 28" bar hit the wood, the chain flipped off. After looking at the all the possibilities why my chain wasn't turning, the problem ended up being four chipped/gouged drive links (my bar was not pinched). As far as I have learned, all I need to do is file down the problem areas, reinstall the chain and see if it turns freely.
Using a dremel with the little sanding drum works well to clean them up.
That does sound like a good time :chainsaw: .
 
This all makes a lot of sense. Thanks to all. I did do a bar clean out and found a lot of sawdust. Odd to me as I just cleaned it. I tossed the chain. I will need to examine the bar closer foray burrs.
As a homeowner, spending an extra $20 on an oregon chain that is straight is much simpler than fixing the old one. The chain should last 6 months for as much as I cut and use it.
The chain should last a while, but if you hit dirt, it will need to be sharpened right away. Running a dull chain can cause issues with the bar, and issues with the saw, it's very hard on them. Also a sharp chain will save you a lot of time and save your back.
Learning to sharpen a chain should be a top priority.
 
This all makes a lot of sense. Thanks to all. I did do a bar clean out and found a lot of sawdust. Odd to me as I just cleaned it. I tossed the chain. I will need to examine the bar closer foray burrs.
As a homeowner, spending an extra $20 on an oregon chain that is straight is much simpler than fixing the old one. The chain should last 6 months for as much as I cut and use it.
You can file each driver that has a burr. No need to throw away a chain.
 
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