If the bar is mounted properly (not being skewed by the tensioning tab not in the bar hole) and the chain tension right, the chain should be easy to pull along the bar and NOTHING should be rubbing on the chain.
Are the guides upside down? Flip top to bottom.
Spend today bucking 2 of the 3 Norfolk Island Pines.
Attached 1 photo of the teeth after filing using the 7/32" file (and guide) in the Oregon filing kit
Attached 1 photo of one of rakers after filing.
Attached a video uploaded to youtube of 4 bucking cuts made today directly after sharpening & filing. video shows chain tension (tight but not too tight), video also shows the saw bog down on the last cut...
not sure why it bogged down, fuel & oil tanks were filled just before starting the video.
today I finally finished off the very first gallon of the 50:1 premix fuel i bought from the dealer and the quart of Stihl bar & chain oil, so that should give you an idea of how new the saw is.
ignore the lack of paint around the edge of the bar, that's just a bi-product of me trying to get rid of all the pine sap on the bar.. see all the brown-ish discoloration on the bar? that's all residual pine sap i still am trying to clean off...
this is how the saw performed today:
the chain sprocket cover nuts are gently loosened, the bar tip is lifted upwards when tightening the tension screw, and once tension is as i want it the chain sprocket cover nuts are gently tightened again.Great that you got to use it today. Thanks for some images, but, They are just not where we are wanting to see.
If you put the chainsaw on the table and just pull off the clutch cover leaving the bar and chain on. Snap picture of the sprocket and just in front of the felling spikes we can get a view.
Then image of the sprocket no chain. The bar tails to see the width of the grove.
Does not seem like it is effecting cutting as the chain might have already indexed what it needs for clearance. But a new chainsaw should not have that much wear. Not sure you chain is adjusted tight enough that the chain is moving at the bar tail allowing it to remove some nylon material. Are you lifting the bar tip up when you tighten the bar nuts?
yeah, the chain was a little more loose than I normally set it, experimenting.That chain is loose, in th video I see the bottom of the chain sucks up to the bar .
So many think that green is semi chisel and yellow is chisel. Green has extra bumpers for less kickback potential. Yellow has only a single depth gauge per cutter and is considered “Pro” chain.to answer a few questions I missed:
I am the original owner, saw is 2 months old.
The bar is the original 25" bar, the chain that came with it was the stock (green) chain.
Went to the dealer and got a full chisel (yellow) replacement chain, 33 RS 84.
My only major frustration right now is the saw goes dull fast when doing quarter sawing to to make firewood... I keep the saw out of the dirt...
I read that i should possibly switch back to the green chain.
Your presumptions are correct...also noticed while doing quarter sawing if i cut from one face the chips are now saw dust, or if i cut from another face the chips are strands. I presume this is normal and related to cutting with/against/across the grain but i haven't definitively found the reason for this yet.
thanks for the isopropyl alcohol tip, this is helping a lot@effigy ,
If you get pine sap ,or ,any other type of sap giving you problems to clean off … use rubbing alcohol (90+% ) .
Cuts right though it . Even old dry sap . And, it doesn’t attack paint ,or plastic.
yeah... wasn't sure what the chain type/specs are of the chain that came with it, all i know is what the dealer told me and that was it's the green chain and reduces kickback.So many think that green is semi chisel and yellow is chisel. Green has extra bumpers for less kickback potential. Yellow has only a single depth gauge per cutter and is considered “Pro” chain.
If it won’t stay sharp, going to a green chain with the same cutter isn’t going to help you out. You have RS, rapid super chain. It’s a full chisel. If you look at the cutters from the front they are shaped like a 7 with a working corner. You would want to switch to semi chisel, or RM. The cutters are shaped like a ? with no corner to dull and will last longer, but won’t cut as fast as RS
the logs were dropped maybe a week ago and have been laying on the ground.Is the wood dirty, or did it ever get drug through the dirt or sand?
If so, cut so that the dirty edge is towards you, not away from you, and the sand and dirt from the outside of the log is being immediately flung away. Don't drag dirt/sand through the entire kerf, in contact with the cutters.
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