Chain question

[sjerseytreeguy]

This is my first post on this site and I hope that some of you can offer keen insight. I have an older husky 55 rancher that I use to cut up firewood for heat in the winter. Im running one of those funky vanguard chains (with the bent over raker). I have a chain sharpener and I find myself constantly sharpening. After the 3rd of 4th sharpening, they will not cut unless i really bear down on bar (which is bad). I understand that the rakers have to be set but how do you file the bent over rakers to get proper depth?? I was actually considering making my own chain as I recently bought a chain spinner and chain breaker from baileys. However, I am confused as to what chain to get. I know the pitch ect. What I am unsure of is the types: full chisel, semi chisel skip tooth ect ect. I believe the vanguard is a safety chain....will there be that much more kickback if i make my own chain without using a chain with safety features??
I was actually thinking the husky 55 was underpowered. As such i was looking at the Dolmar 6400 or makita. Would that saw be better than the husky? I heard mixed things about a the stihl 361 and the 460. I am not a professional tree guy but I do want to have good equip. (for safety reasons)
I go through about 2 cords wood per season. I also take my own trees down (room permitting) Thanks in advance for the suggestions! GREAT SITE

Ben

 

[gwiley]

The Oregon LGX is the best I have used for 3/8 pitch, I like the performance of Oregon LPX on the .325 pitch.

Regarding sharpening, stick to the round file and learn it well. I am convinced that the most efficient and safe approach is to keep the chains sharp while you run them rather than running them until they are dull. I hit my chain with 4-7 strokes (the same count on each link during the same sharpening) EVERY TIME I REFUEL. The chains never get too crappy (unless I rock them) which reduces the chances of kickback or saw reaction forces causing a problem. This only takes about 5 minutes and usually gives my back a much needed rest from cutting anyway.

Some folks swap chains, but I find that at least as time consuming and you need quite a few chains if you are cutting for a day.

Chains with bent over rakers should be placed in the metals bin at your local dump.

 

[mtngun]

I thought about getting a breaker/spinner as you have, but decided it was more economical to buy loops from Baileys.

You'll have to determine the pitch, gage, and # of links for your saw. Sometimes that info is printed on the bar, or you might be able to find it in your owner's manual.

Being a tightwad, I use mostly Woodsman Pro chain from Baileys. It seems to work as well as anything and the price is right.

I detest safety chain, but --- I wear chaps and chainsaw boots. Kickback does happen, be prepared.

Full round chisel non-safety is the fastest (excepting for square, but l don't recommend square for the average firewood cutter). Semi-chisel is not as fast but stays sharp longer. Either will probably work better than the safety chain you are using now.

For two cords a year, your Husky is probably OK. If you have money to burn, then you might want to consider a pro saw just for the heck of it. Size will depend on the size of the trees you are cutting. I currently favor an Efco 62cc saw for firewood. I have bigger saws when the need arises, but the bigger saws are heavier and more challenging to control. The little Efco is easy to operate and cuts small wood plenty fast.

 

[Lignum]

This is my first post on this site and I hope that some of you can offer keen insight. I have an older husky 55 rancher that I use to cut up firewood for heat in the winter. Im running one of those funky vanguard chains (with the bent over raker). I have a chain sharpener and I find myself constantly sharpening. After the 3rd of 4th sharpening, they will not cut unless i really bear down on bar (which is bad). I understand that the rakers have to be set but how do you file the bent over rakers to get proper depth?? I was actually considering making my own chain as I recently bought a chain spinner and chain breaker from baileys. However, I am confused as to what chain to get. I know the pitch ect. What I am unsure of is the types: full chisel, semi chisel skip tooth ect ect. I believe the vanguard is a safety chain....will there be that much more kickback if i make my own chain without using a chain with safety features??
I was actually thinking the husky 55 was underpowered. As such i was looking at the Dolmar 6400 or makita. Would that saw be better than the husky? I heard mixed things about a the stihl 361 and the 460. I am not a professional tree guy but I do want to have good equip. (for safety reasons)
I go through about 2 cords wood per season. I also take my own trees down (room permitting) Thanks in advance for the suggestions! GREAT SITE

Ben

I have the same chain on my 455 for a while now, I sharpen the chain every time I fill up, and file the depth guages when they need them. I use a 6" bastard mill file and lower them down, it looks goofy, but works well with the weird raker.

 

[sjerseytreeguy]

Thanks for the replies so far. I have been doing some reading on other posts here on this site regarding types of chains. The info was very helpful. Being that Im going to chop up firewood (its pin oak...some of the larger pieces are well over 30 inches dia by 12 inches thick)..., I think my chain loop choices are going to be split between 25 feet of chisel and 25 feet of semichisel. I plan on making my own chains. I will be getting the stuff from baileys. Now, has anyone had extensive experience with the woodsman pro stuff or should I stick with the oregon loops?
I realize kickback is dangerout but I always thought "kickback" occurred doing bore cuts, or making cuts near the tip of the bar? I wear steel toed boots for sure but I never thought about chaps; well not for the occasional firewood cutter anyway.
Thanks again

 

[gwiley]

I realize kickback is dangerout but I always thought "kickback" occurred doing bore cuts, or making cuts near the tip of the bar? I wear steel toed boots for sure but I never thought about chaps; well not for the occasional firewood cutter anyway.
Thanks again

Cutting firewood, kickback can happen as the result of a pinched chain, accidental contact with the upper quarter tip of the bar as you are bucking.

I agree that chaps are not needed for the occasional firewood cutter because they are far less likely to NEED their legs. The risk of a saw related injury is a function of probability - it might never happen to you or it might happen to you more than once, it takes all kinds of accident to comprise statistics. Do you feel like gambling with your life/legs that you won't be a contributor when the option of chaps is crazy cheap and crazy easy?

 

[ARsawMechanic]

Yeah, man. Chaps. Just buy the chaps & wear the chaps. Their hot as hell if you cut wood in the summertime, but if they save you a trip to the ER for 40 stitches (at the least) then they've paid for themselves about 50 times over. If they keep you from getting a nickname like "Peg-leg", then make that 5000 times over.... nuff said.
Brands of saws? I aint touching that one. Ok, maybe just a small touch. Everybody has their favorite, with Stihl & Husqvarna being the obvious leaders. I personally don't care for Husqvarna, or any of their "Wholly owned subsidiary" brands, but that is just my opinion. :deadhorse:
There are alot of good brands out there. Solo, Effco, Shindaiwa, Jonsered, Redmax, Dolmar & Makita, Whatever your brand ends up being, you want one with 2 rings on the piston for power & longevity. And remember,,,You get what you pay for. Stay out of Sears & Walmart, Lowes & Home Depot when shopping for a chainsaw. If it does have a warranty problem (all brands have a few) the box stores just refer you to a servicing dealer, who puts you on the back burner because you didn't buy it from him. And most of the box store stuff is entry level (A.K.A. Cheap) style saws that will not stand up to any heavy use.
Since your just cutting your own firewood, a good saw thats well cared for should last long enough that you'll cruising ebay for old stock replacement parts, cause the manufacturer either doesn't make them anymore....or they got bought out by somebody else, & design changed.
Chains...semi chisel if your cutting wood with dirt/ rocks embedded in it, full chisel if its clean. I use round ground chain cause its readily available, & any shop around can replace parts when that 50 year old ingrown fence staple rears its ugly head. :censored:
Safety chain is useful if you have employees prone to accidents, osha or an insurance company looking over your shoulder, or have bought your chainsaw from sears or walmart. Just be aware of what you are doing & your surroundings & you really don't need it. Just my opinion.
You say you have a chain sharpener, and are constantly sharpening on the vanguard. If your using an electric sharpener, be careful not to grind the temper out of the teeth by getting them too hot. And flat file those Vanguard rakers, even though they are weird looking afterward!

 

[dingeryote]

Keep the 55. It's a darn good saw with enough grunt for 2 cords a year, and will last forever at that rate. It's plenty safe if everything is working properly.


Get a set of Chaps. Occaisional use firewood cutters are the most common victim of Chainsaw attacks. It just works that way. Get 'em and wear 'em, and don't wait till you have a close call that only costs you 30 Stitches.

Bailys/Carlton or LGX?

Bailys/Carlton is cheaper and puts up with dirt a bit better.
The LGX is a LOT smoother in the cut and wont vibrate as much, if vibes bug you.

If you're only cutting 2 Cord a year, you should be able to get away with just buying a couple loops a year. One to cut with and a spare.
Unless you run into nails and wire all the time.

Kickback WILL happen. Practice good cutting discipline and you will minimize your risks of bleeding all over a good saw when you do get sloppy and it happens. Safety chain is a joke, and was designed to insulate the chain maker from liability suits. If you get a kickback from regular chain, odds are you would have gotten the same from a safety chain.



Stay safe!
Dingeryote