Chain recommendation for around the farm

[coloradotrout]

Been using Carleton A1LN. Full chisel. Dolmar 5105, 3/8, 050

Stay with it? Switch? Generally I like simple. I have a file in drill method of sharpening I like, also a northern tool grinder. Full chisel is simple.

Suggestions on where to get 3 loops & a bar?

Felling cedar & hedge. Limbing. Pole barn (I ripped a flat edge across 10' of round poles recently).

 

[user 122190]

I run Stihl, Husky, and Oregon, and I notice no difference.

 

[sb47]

I run stihl yellow chains and prefer them over the green safety chains. The yellow chains seem to cut better and last longer then the green ones. I run my rakers a little more aggressive then stock by taking them down a little bit more then spec. I only cut hard wood like red oak post oak pecan and hickory.
But then again I'm not running a race when cutting. Some people like to judge a chain on how fast they cut. What I use seems to cut just fine for cutting firewood.

 

[U&A]

Ok
Ok

I will post but you will get lots of different answers.

I like the Oregon EXJ the most (full skip). I cut well over 90% hardwood and they do well for me. Then the full comp version for smaller bars is the EXL.

The if i cant find that this is the older brothers of that chain. The JGX (full skip) and the JGX (full comp.

https://www.oregonproducts.com/en/p...d-guide-bars/c/powercut-sc-p#cmsitem_00022137

Everything in this world is a compromise in one way or another.


Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]

 

[J D]

As U&A says, there's no perfect answer... For limbing I prefer .325 as it's smoother, but for all round I'd stick with 3/8 as you're already setup for it. If you're happy with your current bar length & that combination is readily available in your area my suggestion would be stick with it, that way you can use your old chains with your old bar for "dirty" jobs. Would also recommend you get a loop of semi-chisel to try for limbing & some of the less than ideal cutting situations one tends to find oneself in around the farm where chain durability is more important than cutting speed

 

[coloradotrout]

Maybe i should try semi chisel as the cedar & stuff i cut is dirty.

 

[U&A]

Maybe i should try semi chisel as the cedar & stuff i cut is dirty.

Good call.


Sent while firmly grasping my Redline lubed Ram [emoji231]

 

[Maintenance supervisor]

Only a suggestion, but you'll have much better results from any chain you select if you take the file you have out of the drill and focus on actual sharpening techniques.

 

[coloradotrout]

Only a suggestion, but you'll have much better results from any chain you select if you take the file you have out of the drill and focus on actual sharpening techniques.

Good with that, but have not found any materials that cover it well. The mechanics of a grinder really seem wrong to me. The file in a drill at least lets me see the interaction of cutter & file.

 

[J D]

Good with that, but have not found any materials that cover it well. The mechanics of a grinder really seem wrong to me. The file in a drill at least lets me see the interaction of cutter & file.

See if you can find someone you know that uses the Stihl or Husky file guides & have a go with them... If you must use the drill there are rotary stones you can get that will do a better job & last a lot longer than a file in that situation... Better yet get one of the actual tools those stones are generally used in, they're pretty cheap & have a proper guide

 

[J D]

About $50 I think

 

[holeycow]

Throw away the (sharpening) crutches. Eegads. Run Forest run!

 

[coloradotrout]

Back to which chain... 72DPX072G, Oregon versa, SC, $19. Yea? No?

 

[coloradotrout]

View attachment 935571
About $50 I think

Not opposed. 12 pack oregon files for $20. Corded drill, $0 (got one). Bence vise with 35 deg marker lines, $0. Use 2" of each file. Break off worn 2". Get 2 sharpenings per 2"; or about 6 per file. 27 cents per sharpening; call it 30.

 

[coloradotrout]

Throw away the (sharpening) crutches. Eegads. Run Forest run!

Ive tried various guides. Not the stihl or husq though, but what I lack is the theory behind what "sharp" is for a specific cutter.

 

[user 122190]

Ive tried various guides. Not the stihl or husq though, but what I lack is the theory behind what "sharp" is for a specific cutter.

A new chain is sharp. File away til it has the same look and feel of a new chain. I wear my reading glasses when filing. A headlamp with the high intensity light on the cutter helps too.

 

[Skeans]

A new chain is sharp. File away til it has the sane look and feel of a new chain. I wear my reading glasses when filing. A headlamp with the high intensity light on the cutter helps too.

Sharp is one thing but cuts good is something completely different from a new chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

[sand sock]

Ive been using the stihl 33rs 72 drivers, that is a good big hardwood chain. I dont like it on brush.

I recently dropped a husqvarna h80 chain on my stihl and think it does really well on brush and limb wood. I think it is a really good chain for teaching a novice to cut. Its quiet and smooth on the bar. Its easier to do bore cuts

 

[user 122190]

Sharp is one thing but cuts good is something completely different from a new chain.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Is that suppose to be helpful, for someone trying to learn to hand file?

 

[ericm979]

Ive tried various guides. Not the stihl or husq though, but what I lack is the theory behind what "sharp" is for a specific cutter.

It's the underside of the tooth that you need to file away. The hard chrome on the top is what cuts, and it's what wears away. When sharp it extends right to the end of the tooth. When the chain is dull there is wear on the edge of the chrome. When you file you are removing the material below the chrome (the rounded "hook" of the chain) so the chrome will extend to the edge of the tooth again. Follow the existing angles with the file. If you are free handing you need to pull up so you're filing the underside of the tooth while holding the chain with your other hand. The various guides do that for you. I like the Oregon one that's a plate that the file fits in.

Stihl saw owners' manuals show how to sharpen pretty well. If that doesn't make sense to you there's a ton of youtube videos.