Homelite XL (UT-10515B) Chainsaw Bar/Chain, Troubleshooting

GStevens1

GStevens1

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Aug 19, 2020
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Hello everyone.

I am new to this site, and new to DIY mechanical skills on 2 cycle equipment.

I recently acquired a free Homelite XL (UT-10515B) 10" Chainsaw with automatic oiling, however, it did not fire up, even after adding fresh premix (40:1).

I removed the spark plug, sprayed some starting fluid in the cylinder, reinstalled the plug, and it fired eventually, but only briefly. Obviously, there is a carburetor issue and not an issue with spark. The carburetor installed is a: Zama Carburetor C2S-H5 part# A-96481, so I ordered the last one I could find on ebay for $25, in new condition. I will install a Zama rebuild kit on the original non-working carburetor after the new carburetor has been installed and the other has been removed.

Installed on this chainsaw was a Homelite branded 10" OEM bar, with 10" chain (40 drive links) installed.

Out of curiosity, what do most experienced folks recommend for 10" 40 DL chains? Full chisel or Semi chisel? What brand? Oregon? The Oregon S40 or R40? I don't see a lot of choices in this area, surprisingly at 10", which I understand due to the small size, but I cannot deny the extreme light weight of this saw. It's lighter than most fiberglass hand tools in my opinion. I cannot get any information off of the OEM Homelite bar, or generic chain, and the parts manuals have never shown a factory 10" bar that I could locate, however, this bar is stamped with HOMELITE.

I have virtually unlimited access to hardwoods (oak, walnut, etc...) so I was curious as to the recommendation of the most appropriate chain make/model/type/etc... I am not experienced in the differences.

Also, I have no idea if the oiler system works or not, but I suppose I will start that investigation after the saw is running. It's possible that it could work, but I doubt it.. but maybe... I may need a more simplified method/video/document on how to troubleshoot the "duckbill" valve and/or general troubleshooting on the oiler - however, it might work correctly and troubleshooting may be premature.

So far, I've only spent $25 for this saw (new OEM Zama carburetor), and it has (2) 10" chains. It needs internal/external cleaning, a new air filter (someone used a brillo? scratch pad as a substitute air filter), and carburetor. I will install the new OEM Zama carburetor shortly, and a rebuild kit for the old Zama once it's out so that I have 2 known good carburetors.

I do have a Stihl engine tachometer, so from what I gather from the service manual, the engine speeds should be as follows:

Speed: 2,900-3,200 RPM idle
Speed: 7,000 RPM Cutting
Speed: 10,000 no load (approximate)

Pictures are attached of this saw, before being cleaned. (I only removed the case for checking carb numbers). Does anyone have any advice on what type of chain, type of air filter (source for old stock oem parts if still available?) Also, any other useful information that anyone could give me on this chainsaw would be very helpful! I do not have experience with Homelite saws.

For some reason, I would rather use this ancient saw made back in 1983?, then use the newer/bigger/heavier/expensive saws. I think I was 2 or 3 when this saw was manufactured, so I have A LOT of respect for older things. Funny thing is, the (significantly older) contractors working at the job site where this saw was being thrown away, all passed this saw up as being too "OLD" and "Unfixable junk", but I strongly disagree despite me being in my 30's and half their age... Hopefully I can get this running like a top, without spending a fortune.

Thank you very much!
 

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farmguywithasaw

farmguywithasaw

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They consider it “too old” as parts are not made for it anymore and it has no chain brake so you could get in trouble for that. But around the home and on the 4 wheeler they work good
 
Old2stroke

Old2stroke

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That saw looks like it hasn't had a lot of use, might just need a carb kit, some fuel lines and filter and a sorting out of the oiler system. Between this saw, the XL2 and the Super-2 there are a few variations. These are handy little saws when you want one that you can comfortably use with one hand
 

svk

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I like the Archer full chisel 3/8 LP chain for smaller saws but Oregon chain is fine too. However I tried to get a loop of Archer for my Mac top handle the other day and they did not have any chisel in stock, only semi chisel.

I am not sure how large of wood you are cutting but if you are going to be doing a lot of cutting in hardwood, I would advise you to get a larger saw and keep this for a spare.
 
GStevens1

GStevens1

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Joined
Aug 19, 2020
Messages
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U.S.A.
I like the Archer full chisel 3/8 LP chain for smaller saws but Oregon chain is fine too. However I tried to get a loop of Archer for my Mac top handle the other day and they did not have any chisel in stock, only semi chisel.

I am not sure how large of wood you are cutting but if you are going to be doing a lot of cutting in hardwood, I would advise you to get a larger saw and keep this for a spare.
I agree and will do as such.
Thank you, and everyone else for your advice!
 
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jp233

jp233

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MI
yeah I believe there's a zillion threads here on Homelite XL and related saws. They are usually for sale around here in various condition ($10-20 unknown, $40-90 running depending on how good and bar/chain size).

That chain looks like it has tons of life left, just check it over (i.e. if it's been sitting, make sure no rivets/joints are stuck too bad, rust, etc) and if it's good - just sharpen it. If the sprocket doesn't have much wear on it, you can assume it hasn't been run very hard or very long.

Cool little saws, I'm sure I'll run into one.
 

Okie

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You are lucky that the UT sticker is still on the saw. They usually fall off due to dried glue. I usually just peel them off and put them in my file and take a electric etcher and make the info permanent on the saw cowling.
Them little fellers usually need new duckbill's, fuel and oil lines and keep a heads up on the oil line routing. Make yourself a witness diagram for the lines. Easy to get the oil lines bass ackards and up side down.
Them carbs are easy to kit.

Here is a link to a $5 handy little plastic Oregon chain gauge that saves lots of time when farting around trying to ID chainsaw chains.

 
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